Fairtax4me

$75 each from 1stsubaruparts. Or you can get el-cheapo Anchor mounts from Rockauto for about $47 each. I'd probably go with OE from my past experiences with Anchor brand mounts.

Yes, this is the sensor behind the cats. Check the wiring for the sensor before changing it. It runs up the side of the transmission. Make sure it isn't touching the pipes or rubbing against something it shouldn't be.

235k on the original sensor? Probably should change it anyway.

Unplug the wire harness connector at the coil. Turn the ignition to ON and probe the pin on the yellow wire for 12V with your multimeter. Ground the meter to one of the mounting screws for the coil. If you have 12V you can move on to the CPS. It looks like you can check the CPS with a digital meter set to AC volts. Probe the pins on the sensor while cranking the engine and look for voltage to bounce around under the 2.0v range. You should have 0.1v minimum. If you get nothing that way use an analog meter and try to get a reading. If still nothing the sensor is bad, or the reluctor ring on the crankshaft is damaged or covered in metal shavings. edit: This link my be of some help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Has the FSM for 90-94 Legacy.

Sensor 2 is post cat. What year and how many miles ya got?

Could be the crank sensor. You can check that with an Analog multimeter if you have one. There is a resistance check for the CPS but I don't recall the exact value off hand. Have you verified there is 12V reaching the coil?

When any conventional fix creates other problems, it's usually best to start back at square one. Before going to see a dealer see if any friends or friends of friends have access to a better scanner, or even better an Oscilloscope, so you can check out the sensor outputs. Swapping sensors side to side is a good idea. How many miles are on this car?

Can your scanner monitor/record live data? I'm wondering if you just have a bad sensor. That might have caused the P0420 code as well. Did you test/replace any sensors in attempt to remedy the p0420 code? What I can find says basically the same as causes for P0420. The ECU isn't seeing the change in voltage that it wants to see from the sensor. In this case the voltage is staying too far in the lean direction. Perhaps finding a happy medium with the size of the hole drilled in the anti fouler will fix the problem. Have you tried drilled as well as un-drilled by themselves?

Did you check for spark? Or just poke around with a test light? The simplest things first. Check all the fuses, in the main fuse box under the hood as well as under the dash.

The Right hand side of the car was damaged correct? Is this an Outback model? If the fender has any paint damage that causes it to need to be painted the common repair method is to blend at least the front half of the fender, if not repaint it entirely. This means removing any trim, such as the vinyl that wraps around the wheel arch.

Separator plate is only available from a dealer as far as I know. This site http://www.subarupartsforyou.com/cp_partdetail.php?partid=11564 has all the part numbers you'll need, but your local dealer should know the drill. Very common replacement item on EJ series engines. Rear main is probably not leaking.

Speaking of tow trucks. I saw one towing a Mitsubishi Eclipse today... picked it up by the rear wheels. Front bumper was close to dragging on the road. Be glad you're not that person, and your driver was smart enough to go back for the correct type of truck. Seems like very few tow rigs carry wheel dollies anymore. Edit: Pull the line off at the filter, and stick it in a clear plastic bottle. Turn the key to On and catch a few ounces of the fuel (if there is any) that comes out of the line when it primes. Let it sit a little while and look for little "bubbles" of water in it.

Only if you drove it that way for a really really long time. (thousands of miles) Short term. No harm no foul.

Intake duct isn't split open is it? Worth a look at least, but I'm thinking water in the fuel line/filter. Bottle of Heet should help.

Just to make sure, the top of the cam lobe is a full 180 off from the valve you're checking? Being just 90 off can make a big difference on some engines. There are cases of burned exhaust valves on these, theoretically because the valve lash clearance has closed to 0, then the valves start to hang open. There was a thread about it here recently. Let me see if I can find it. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=116101&highlight=Burned+valve

Do you know the size of the shim that's in there now? Subtract the proper amount of clearance from the size of the current shim to roughly determine which size new shim you should use.

Separator plate leak sounds plausible. You can't tell if that's it without pulling the engine though. It could be that or the rear main, and inspection of either is pretty difficult with the engine mated to the trans. Did you wipe some on your finger to see what color it is? Anything wet with oil in front of that area?

Need an "Advice of the week" heading or something on the main page. I'll nominate this one for the first week. :-p With spelling/grammar corrections of course.

Looks like it has rust on it? There's no reason to think it still works correctly if it was floating for that long. Find a new Turbo ECU.

I've seen that one. Still a good price for a Legacy Wagon, assuming there is nothing major wrong with it. Might be why it's still there? Needs 2 tires is not a phrase you want to hear from a subaru owner. :-p I've bee looking for a wagon pretty hard lately. I might send him an email about it and see what info I can get out of him. Got a trade in at work that I might get depending on what they want for it. It has lots of miles at 231k, and at least two bad wheel bearings, but it seems to run OK if you don't mind the smell of coolant and oil burning off the engine. :-p

One color Outback? Don't think so unless he had it repainted/peeled the stickers off the sides. Outback bumpers always have the big round fog lights. And the grille is larger and has larger bars, and has an Outback badge.

Your cruise control may not work, and you may not be able to exceed a set speed. VDC should not be affected.

No, you can't use a cracked piston. Crack = bad. Those scars at the top of the cylinder aren't good news either. The piston comes right up to that point, and if the rings go past those marks they will leak compression and probably end up burning out. Generally that type of mark is too deep for machining. With that type of top end damage, the rod is probably bent as well. Talk to whoever you bought it from, and tell them the engine is damaged beyond repair, and you need your money back. Wash your hands of it, and go to car-part.com and find another engine.

The Outback lift is only about 1.5" higher than a regular Legacy. The struts give 1" of lift, and the slightly larger tires give another 1/2" or so. I think people get the extra 3" from the overall height, which includes the raised step roof on the Outbacks. The blocks between the chassis and front and rear cross members, a little less than 1", are there to lower the drivetrain to keep the working axle angle within acceptible spec. And yes, it can be lifted more. There are strut top lift kits available, or they can be made pretty easily with a little effort and a welder. Fuel economy will get better with a lower car though. Castrate, I mean, reverse it to regular Legacy height, and the closer to the road stance will yield an extra mpg or so on the highway. (is it worth it though?) :-p

Yep. I believe there are exceptions in some states for people with independent dealer licenses. And obviously a dealership can do safety inspection on inventory vehicles. Seems like you could have talked them into throwing a sticker on there for you. Glad you got something. That 2.2 is the last year for the non-interference design. With a little TLC here and there, it should run very well for quite some time. Mine is still charging hard at 183k. And it's still young by EJ22 standards.