Fairtax4me

Plenty of people use them on Imprezas. But just like plain rotors, many factors can contribute to warping. From driving style, to maintenance habits, to metal quality.

Check the fuses first. Could be any number of things causing the problem though.

Lo Jack is a subscription service. No need to worry about the law as I'm sure yours hasn't been active for quite some time. I'm pretty sure you have to take the unit to an installer to have it re-activated. But you can put it in any car you want now!

Switches are often the causes of intermittent symptoms. I'd grab a switch from a junkyard to try. Also be sure to check the contacts in the wire harness plug to the switch. Corrosion/dirt/water causing a bad connection can lead to a lot of problems. To clarify, the switch in question is the neutral position switch, not the neutral/clutch start switch.

Most of the time you can replace shift solenoids without removing the transmission. Due to the intermittent occurance of the problem, I would suspect a possible issue with the TCM, but starting with a fluid change can only help.

Call them and ask. http://www.lojack.com/ OR find a dealer/installer somewhere nearby and pay them a visit.

I'm sure he has the castle nut and cotter pin removed already. Axles can be a real PITA sometimes. My favorite thing to do is loosen the axle nut to near the end of the shaft, and overhang it by about 1/8". Then pound away with a 3lb sledge. The axle nut takes the abuse instead of the end of the axle shaft. And it only costs $2 to replace it.

Year? Auto or manual?

The shifter bushings might have gotten thrashed and trashed when it broke. Looks like the boot around the selector rod is torn in the pic. The bushings are cheap from a dealer, the boot you might as well get from a junk yard. You'll be right in that area getting the drive shaft out so it shouldn't be too difficult to yank that out at the same time.

happy happy joy joy! I get to look forward to this! I'm surprised mine isn't leaking yet.

I've had brake boosters get water inside and rust a little. Just enough to make the push rod stick. You can grab one from a junk yard pretty easy. The master can be rebuilt pretty easily, but it's up to you if you want to do that much labor. Most people just replace them. Make sure the pivot bushing is in place on the pedal as well as the push rod. Put some grease on them and work it around a couple times and see if that helps before you go ripping the master out.

Assuming you don't have any other codes. The hose for the evap probably has a split or hole in it somewhere along the line. You can have someone blow into the evap hose under the hood while you listen underneath the car for air movement. There are a few other valves, one near the fuel tank, and one near the evap canister at the back of the car. Check both of those for operation as well. The whole evap system is complicated as hell. Good luck finding the leak.

At least you got a new clutch out of the deal! Junkyard should work great. This is an Impreza right? (OBS is Outback Sport isn't it?) Pretty much any AWD Impreza with a manual transmission from 92 to 98 should work. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_8/train/propeller_shaft/ Click any of the part numbers next to number 3: Propeller Shaft assembly. On the next page, click the link for Usage information under the American model.

Well, if you glob the hell out of it you deserve to have it clog up the oil passages! It ain't that hard to smear a thin film of it on the outside of the seal before you pop it in. Any excess will get taken of by the front edge of the bore as the seal slides in.

Did not know this, therefore I swallow my words about needing sophisticated equipment to scan the ABS system.

The two breather hoses should not connect to that same tube under the air box. The one from the left (passenger) side cylinder head goes to the tube that's behind that. The one from the T connects to the tube that crosses over to the right side cylinder head. The one that sticks out of the front of the air box... I'm not sure.

Yeah there's a good chance that's it. I was thinking that might have been the cause of the noise earlier, which is why I was trying to get you to find out if it was wheel speed related by getting the car in the air and "driving". Unforunately I think you had already pulled the engine before I got that message posted. Oh and you won't be able to "see" much without dropping the exhaust system and removing the heat shields. But you should be able to get a good enough view of the drive shaft to see if it there is excessive movement if you grab it and push/pull it around.

What's the code? And what year/ engine

Carrier bearing is what I was thinking he meant. Never heard it called a carriage bearing before.

Apparently the knock sensors on these are pretty finicky. I've though about grabbing one for a Volvo (basic, never break, never have problems) and seeing if it would work on my car just for kicks. No luck on the IAC valve today. Newest Subaru they had at all was a 95 Legacy OBW.

Carriage bearing... ? The one on the drive shaft? I think you have to swap the whole shaft to get that one, but they should all be the same for the most part.

P030 is an incomplete code. There should be four numbers following the P. But since it was a history code it's probably not related to the current issue. Any lights blinking in tandem with the turn signal indicators throw up a red flag as a possible short.

If you have the capacity to do that type of custom work then anything is possible. But as a direct swap no it won't work without custom work, or a ghetto rig.

What are you getting as the replacement?

The only reason it would be or should be chatter is if you're riding the clutch way too much. Here's a thought... are you sure the disc was installed correctly? They are directional. Glazing around the edge seems a bit odd unless the clutch is just not making full contact with the flywheel and/or pressure plate. Which previous clutch was slipping? Was it the one before the Autozone replacement or was it the Autozone one?