Fairtax4me

Most of the time you can replace shift solenoids without removing the transmission. Due to the intermittent occurance of the problem, I would suspect a possible issue with the TCM, but starting with a fluid change can only help.

Call them and ask. http://www.lojack.com/ OR find a dealer/installer somewhere nearby and pay them a visit.

I'm sure he has the castle nut and cotter pin removed already. Axles can be a real PITA sometimes. My favorite thing to do is loosen the axle nut to near the end of the shaft, and overhang it by about 1/8". Then pound away with a 3lb sledge. The axle nut takes the abuse instead of the end of the axle shaft. And it only costs $2 to replace it.

Year? Auto or manual?

The shifter bushings might have gotten thrashed and trashed when it broke. Looks like the boot around the selector rod is torn in the pic. The bushings are cheap from a dealer, the boot you might as well get from a junk yard. You'll be right in that area getting the drive shaft out so it shouldn't be too difficult to yank that out at the same time.

happy happy joy joy! I get to look forward to this! I'm surprised mine isn't leaking yet.

I've had brake boosters get water inside and rust a little. Just enough to make the push rod stick. You can grab one from a junk yard pretty easy. The master can be rebuilt pretty easily, but it's up to you if you want to do that much labor. Most people just replace them. Make sure the pivot bushing is in place on the pedal as well as the push rod. Put some grease on them and work it around a couple times and see if that helps before you go ripping the master out.

Assuming you don't have any other codes. The hose for the evap probably has a split or hole in it somewhere along the line. You can have someone blow into the evap hose under the hood while you listen underneath the car for air movement. There are a few other valves, one near the fuel tank, and one near the evap canister at the back of the car. Check both of those for operation as well. The whole evap system is complicated as hell. Good luck finding the leak.

At least you got a new clutch out of the deal! Junkyard should work great. This is an Impreza right? (OBS is Outback Sport isn't it?) Pretty much any AWD Impreza with a manual transmission from 92 to 98 should work. http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_8/train/propeller_shaft/ Click any of the part numbers next to number 3: Propeller Shaft assembly. On the next page, click the link for Usage information under the American model.

Well, if you glob the hell out of it you deserve to have it clog up the oil passages! It ain't that hard to smear a thin film of it on the outside of the seal before you pop it in. Any excess will get taken of by the front edge of the bore as the seal slides in.

Did not know this, therefore I swallow my words about needing sophisticated equipment to scan the ABS system.

The two breather hoses should not connect to that same tube under the air box. The one from the left (passenger) side cylinder head goes to the tube that's behind that. The one from the T connects to the tube that crosses over to the right side cylinder head. The one that sticks out of the front of the air box... I'm not sure.

Yeah there's a good chance that's it. I was thinking that might have been the cause of the noise earlier, which is why I was trying to get you to find out if it was wheel speed related by getting the car in the air and "driving". Unforunately I think you had already pulled the engine before I got that message posted. Oh and you won't be able to "see" much without dropping the exhaust system and removing the heat shields. But you should be able to get a good enough view of the drive shaft to see if it there is excessive movement if you grab it and push/pull it around.

What's the code? And what year/ engine

Carrier bearing is what I was thinking he meant. Never heard it called a carriage bearing before.

Apparently the knock sensors on these are pretty finicky. I've though about grabbing one for a Volvo (basic, never break, never have problems) and seeing if it would work on my car just for kicks. No luck on the IAC valve today. Newest Subaru they had at all was a 95 Legacy OBW.

Carriage bearing... ? The one on the drive shaft? I think you have to swap the whole shaft to get that one, but they should all be the same for the most part.

P030 is an incomplete code. There should be four numbers following the P. But since it was a history code it's probably not related to the current issue. Any lights blinking in tandem with the turn signal indicators throw up a red flag as a possible short.

If you have the capacity to do that type of custom work then anything is possible. But as a direct swap no it won't work without custom work, or a ghetto rig.

What are you getting as the replacement?

The only reason it would be or should be chatter is if you're riding the clutch way too much. Here's a thought... are you sure the disc was installed correctly? They are directional. Glazing around the edge seems a bit odd unless the clutch is just not making full contact with the flywheel and/or pressure plate. Which previous clutch was slipping? Was it the one before the Autozone replacement or was it the Autozone one?

I had a similar issue with my 96 Legacy. I'd be boogyin along at 70 on the interstate and hit a hill and have to downshift to keep it over 60. Was a big vacuum leak. The Evap purge solenoid had split a seal or something and air was just rushing right through when it was supposed to be closed. Fixed that and it's been peachy. Check around for split hoses. Any that are really hard (can't squeeze it with your finger) you should just replace.

On the old EJ22 there's a cover on the top, passenger side of the bell housing, dunno about on the newer engines. I don't see how the starter pinion would make contact with the flywheel unless the kick out solenoid is messed up or something. It might be worth it to remove the starter and do a visual check of the ring gear to see if there is any noticeable damage to the teeth. There is a clip of some sort that goes on the transmission side of the torque converter on older cars. I wonder if something like that might have popped loose?

I've had that "cold" for like a month. It just keeps lingering around. :-\ Did you happen to check if there was any play in the transmission input shaft while you had the engine out? Did you check the movement of the throwout arm and bearing to be sure it's returning all the way? When it shakes is it just when rolling? Jack up the car, put it in first or second gear and just let it idle. The wheels will be moving, but not fast. Then you can hunt around for the noise yourself Is this car FWD or AWD?

You can try a spark plug non fouler. It pulls the sensor back out of the main exhaust stream so it reads a higher oxygen content. People often use them after gutting the cat to keep the light off. They're $2 and change at most parts stores so if it doesn't work it's not a big loss.