Fairtax4me

These things all work a little bit different. Check to see if the fan motor is getting power at the connector when the switch is in the first 3 positions. If not, pull the hvac control panel out of the dash and test the switch.

So I got a small update. Using the test mode connector I've found that all 3 solenoids in the evap system are operational. They all click when power is cycled to them, BUT the evap purge solenoid (the one under the hood) doesn't close completely. I can still blow air past the valve in either the open or closed position. Though there is a difference, it's still easy to get air through the valve when it's supposed to be closed. The other two solenoids, the vent solenoid and the tank pressure control solenoid, I didn't get a chance to test, other than checking to see that they are operational. Thanks for the info! Now I can get in there and check the lines to make sure there are no big holes and such.

You may have to remove the rockers and clean the passages in the rocker shaft.

Do you want to go faster, or do you want better acceleration?

I haven't had the chance to look into this any further yet. But since I plugged the line for the evap solenoid I've noticed that the stumble I was having at idle has gone away, and the car will accelerate up hill in 5th gear again.

You can use a vacuum pump on the bleeder screw to help draw the air out. The best way is to just remove the slave cylinder and actuate it by hand a few times. I usually prime the slave cylinder before I put it on the car. Some of the fluid comes out when you install it, but at least you know there isn't any air in it then.

Water in the exhaust is completely normal as it's a bi-product of combustion in general and a bi-product of the reaction that takes place in the catalytic converter. The water is usually steam (vapor) in the exhaust until it gets close to the tail pipe where it can start to mix with cool air, and/or will condense on the cooler inner walls of the muffler and tail pipe. (cooler than the manifolds and catalytic converter) I wouldn't worry about the water.

Pop the cover off, remove the nut, give it a yank? Rear wipers aren't usually any different than front wipers. It's a conical splined seat with a threaded stud at the end. That's the only kind I've ever seen anyway.

Stopping distance shouldn't have anything to do with the speed rating. I see how it could be affected if you go so fast the tire blows out and then try to stop. I thought the Traction Rating of the tire is how stopping distance is measured? But I'm no expert on government tire grading scales. Where did you read this?

You need a leak down Test kit, and a source of compressed air capable of over 100 psi. It's basically like a compression tester, except YOU provide the compression via the compressed air, and you have a gauge that measures how fast the air leaks out, expressed as a percentage. You remove all the spark plugs, and set the first cylinder at TDC. (the kit comes with detailed instructions) Jam the crankshaft so it doesn't spin, attach the gauge, and fill the cylinder with air until the gauge reads 100 psi. There is a "normal" amount of leakage, but anything above that will be apparent and the gauge will reflect that. If the leakage is more than what's considered normal you determine where the leak is by listening. In the crankcase, it's bad rings, or cracked piston or block. In the air intake it's a damaged intake valve, same goes for the exhaust. Open the radiator cap and if the coolant starts pushing out then it's a head gasket leak.

They'll have to remove the camshafts to get the valves out, so yes the seals will be destroyed in the process. The "thunk" you heard was probably the valves CLOSING, and hitting the seat. Springs compress when the valves are open, and they do put a fair amount of load on the cams. It's more than enough to kick the camshaft back an slam them shut if it gets turned. Put her back together, she'll run.

The front O2 sensor does a big part in adjusting fuel trim. The rear is only a monitor.

I searched your car and they didn't come up. My guess would be because the speed rating is lower than the factory rubber. But honestly... are you ever going to go over 118 mph? You're comfortable riding on tires that are 11 years old?

If you're looking form the top down at the exhaust system next to the transmission. You'll see where the axle comes out of the differential. The front O2 sensor is directly under that. The rear O2 sensor comes out behind the resonator. Number 11 is the O2 sensor.

So I was screwing around under the hood of the scubado tonight. Adjusted the headlights a bit then as I walked back to the drivers door to turn the engine off, I heard the unmistakable sound of air. Vacuum leak! But where? I'm looking, listening, wiggling hoses arouhd with my hand to see if anything changes. Finally I decide that the sound is coming from the area of the Evap. purge solenoid. I pull the hose off the intake and stick my finger over the nipple, noise stops. I put the hose back, noise returns. I pull the hose off the solenoid and pinch it, noise stops. Put the hose back, then pull the hose off the other side of the solenoid. Put my finger over the hole, noise stops. So now I'm thinking that I must have broken the hard line under the intake manifold or something trying to get the old dry rotted hose off. I put the hose back on the solenoid, grab a pair of pliers and pinch the Evap hose over by the fuel filter on the drivers strut tower. Noise stops. So now I have two questions... Why is the Evap solenoid open when the car is at idle? In my experience it is not supposed to open unless the engine is at a steady speed above idle, such as when driving down the highway. Where does the hard line go when it disappears at the bottom of the firewall? I looked under the car, and for the life of me I can't see the damn thing. I never paid any attention to the fuel lines at any of the times I was under the car. I can't imagine that they go inside, though that would seem right for a Jaguar...

I dunno which ones you're looking at. The ones I linked are $90 each, that was the only ones I could find in the size you listed. What year and model are these going on?

Generals are not great tires in my experience. Bridgestone I've had luck with but they tend to be noisy. Anything Goodyear or Michelin is just not worth the money. Falkens seem to get a good rap but they wear out fast and they're usually pretty loud. I've installed two sets of BFGoodrich Traction T/A tires recently. One for my sisters car, one for a friend of mine. Both of them have been very pleased. Got them on sale through tire rack. My sister drives like 25k a year, they've been on her car about a year now and they still have about 3/4 of the tread left. No balance issues, and they are fairly quiet on the highway. Fairly quiet because it's on a Corolla, it's not gonna be but so quiet on a corolla. :-p I'm thinking I'll probably get a set of these for my Legacy when the time comes. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=BFGoodrich&tireModel=Traction+T%2FA+T&partnum=255TR7TTAT&vehicleSearch=false&fromCompare1=yes

Scroll down the the USA models and click on the usage links for a list of all the cars that part was used on. http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/20410AA050/

You'll need to take the tube off and clean it out. I use a bottle brush for stuff like that. If you have a bucket of parts dip, dunk it in there and let it sit for a night.

Take the belt off and reset the marks. Hope like hell you didn't bend the valves when the cams turned.

I didn't even notice that I typed V6. I thought I read somewhere all the new ones had the 6 banger. Must have been a typo or something.

Sorry, I was thinking single cam. I wouldn't figure the valves would be close enough together to hit each other, but if that's the warning then I'd be sure to follow it. Still you're gonna have a fair amount of wiggle room despite. What you don't want to happen is for the cams to rotate in opposite directions. Subaru probably makes a special tool that fits between the sprockets that will keep them from turning if you're really worried about it. I think as long as you leave them alone they should stay put.

You'll feel it stop when the valve hits the piston. When number one is at tdc number 3 will be at bottom center of the exhuast stroke. (I think) so you might get a 150° turn from the cam on that side before the valves hit the number one piston. The number 3 is in no danger, same as the number 2. The number 4 however, would be on the top of the exhaust stroke so you might only get 20 - 30° movement before hitting the piston on that side.

I only said it cuz it works. You have to get the light just right but you can see all the outlines of the dummy lights.

For the most part they're the same, except for the turbo models. How did he manage the bend the sway bar?