Fairtax4me

Did you get the actual code that was set? Most parts stores will scan a CEL for free. Post up the code if you can get it.

That's what I thought too, and that was why the first thing I checked was the terminals. All I did was replace the terminals and re-attach the cables to the bracket that holds them to the strut tower. I had a look at the cables when I put the terminals on, and they weren't perfect but they were in pretty good shape under the insulation. I wiggled the cables all around and couldn't make it act up while I was under the hood. I think I'll cut back the insulation on the other side and see what if anything is going on at the engine end.

We've got a tester at work. I'll check that tomorrow. It's a reman unit (has a sticker on it) though I don't think it's the problem.

Whats the V? Looks like an open diff to me too. What tells you that it isn't?

I had a strange occurrence today driving home from work. Every 30 seconds or so I would get a pop out of the speakers in the car. Then I noticed the CEL (which is on for an unrelated reason) flickered in unison with the pop. I had to stop for a red light and the radio cut off, like the power had been cut. This happened when I was staring out in first gear coming off the line. The radio came back on, acted like the key had been turned off and then back on, then went to popping again as I was driving. Next stop, same deal, radio cuts off, but I noticed that all of the gauges (tach, oil pressure, water temp, fuel) all dipped to near nothing at the same time as the radio cut off. So when I got home I popped the hood half expecting to see the ground wire on the battery loose or something. I just replaced the terminals about two weeks ago with clamp style universals, both terminals were tight. I checked the connection on the engine, and the one on the body. All seem to be in satisfactory condition. I started the car and set the parking brake tight, then "lurched" the car a few times by kicking out the clutch in first gear and I got it to reproduce the problem twice. Tried to keep the engine running but it did stall once, when it cut off I heard what I think was the main relay (somewhere under the dash is all I could tell) clicking rapidly, and all of the lights in the instrument panel went dim. Not out, but only about half as bright as they should be. I hit the brake pedal, and they all blinked, then came back on full brightness when I let off the pedal. Hitting the pedal after that had little effect. Restarted the engine, and couldn't manage to duplicate the problem any more after that. My clutch isn't in the best shape so I called it quits and went inside. Came back out about an hour later and drove the car a few miles with no problem. I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for here. Seems like all the stuff inside the car loses voltage for a split second then comes back just fine. The engine never stumbled that I could tell. I couldn't manage to get any readings with my VOM while it was doing this. Any ideas or advice? Things to check? 96 Legacy sedan in case anyone wants to know.

Can you tell if the fuel is backing up into the filler neck?

Try pulling the nozzle out about two inches or so from fully inserted and see if it does any better.

Was the engine running, and the transmission warm and in park when you checked the fluid? Could be a failing shift solenoid. As said before, try changing the fluid.

You can compare part numbers for the clutch and flywheel parts here... http://opposedforces.com/parts/

The EvoScan Looks like AutoTap, but costs a lot less. Any idea how the two compare to each other? I was looking for a decent scan tool and settled on one that could read ABS codes. But I have no idea how often I would need that function. Of the vehicles I've owned that have ABS, I've never had a problem with any of them that wasn't obvious, like a broken connector or cut wire. Or a hole burned in the side of the ABS control module... from the inside.

The bulb with the "cap" is the low beam bulb. The reason it is there is to block light from being directed straight out from the bulb with no refraction pattern. This prevents other drivers from being night blinded when you drive by. The low beam bulb is also almost always the outermost bulb in the assembly.

Thanks for the link. I'll wheel through some of that and see what I can come up with. Looks like a ton of good info in the Diagnostic file. Too bad I don't have the kind of diagnostic equipment to take advantage of the figures.

You need to probe the connection at the ECU to see what it is getting back from the Knock and temp sensors. Testing for voltage at the harness connector, and resistance across the sensor, doesn't tell you anything about what is happening between there and the ECU. There's a factory service manual in here for the 1992 model year called "92 legacy full". It may have some hints for diagnosis. http://cid-4ca3c3459aaa7f7f.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/.Public

I believe it would have the 2.2 if it has a manual, 2.5 if an automatic.

Enter the FIST!!! I have an Alpine in dash unit in my Lincoln that gets temperamental every now and then. Usually a good smack on the dash knocks some sense into it.

You might get lucky and it just popped a wire harness connector loose. But the only way to find out will be to take the seat out and take it apart. :-\

You'll have to remove the door panels to get access to the speakers. It's a matter of removing a couple screws, and popping loose a handful of clips around the edge of the panel. I have 6.5" speakers in mine. I imagine yours would be the same.

Battery cables. Your ground cable connection is corroded or loose. Dealt with a similar issue for a friend last night after he spent an hour trying to drive 10 miles. He couldn't figure why the car kept dying every half mile or so or whenever he hit a big bump in the road. Ground cable was barely attached to the engine, and the body to battery connection was ready to break off.

How long ago was the seal replaced? Did you have any other work done at the same time? (Timing belt, idlers, water pump, etc.)

That's what she said!

Log1Call's post about how the Idle Air Control Valve works, and what the Throttle Position Sensor does. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=861589&postcount=4 From thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=862263#post862263

On a side note... That's why it's bad to try to adjust idle speed by turning the throttle stop screw. I made a post in the USRM for you Log1call. Just linked it to this thread.

High input would usually be high voltage, which means low resistance. Sensor A circuit I'm gonna guess is the primary sensor which is the one on the pump side.

I figure I'll replace it, but I've still got the problem of, where was all the "air" coming from? It doesn't seem normal that it would just keep pulling air through the lines if everything is working correctly. I'm still trying to find an explanation of how exactly the whole system works, when each valve is supposed to be open or closed.

The pitch and angle of the teeth will be different from one set to another. Mixing and matching may work... for a few miles... :-p Then you want a LOWER differential ratio. A 4.44 ratio is 4.44 turns of the input shaft to 1 turn of the axle. Best expressed as 4.44:1. Without going into too much detail (math) the lower the ratio, the fewer the number of revolutions of the engine at a given speed. If your ratio is 4.10 right now, the 4.44 will make the engine run at 3250 rpm at 70km/h. A 3.50 ratio will get you engine speeds around 2600 rpm. The reason your other car runs at a lower rpm is probably because of the gears in the transmission. Tire size can also play a big part in engine speed. I think it's about right for 4th gear though.