Fairtax4me

6 hours for one or did you do both?

Clutch is one of those maintenance parts that I just plan on replacing when I buy a car. You don't know how the previous drove it, or how long ago it was last replaced. I'd go ahead and just pull the engine, new clutch, seals, timing belt if its old. Be sure to reseal/replace the separator plate and the access cover oring in the bellhousing.

Did you remove the snap ring from the inside of the knuckle? Snap ring has to come out, then the whole outer race is pressed out to the inside. There is a groove that the bearing rollers will jam in and make it difficult for the inner race to separate from the outer race. The two do not need to be separated to get the bearing out.

If you want low end power look into a supercharger. Turbos don't do so well at low RPM because it takes time for them to spin up and start making boost. A smaller turbo is "better" for low end, but won't beat the response of a supercharger.

Those engines tend to lose coolant slowly, over a long period of time, due to minor seepage from the head gaskets. You'll probably never see a drip on the ground or anywhere under the hood because it evaporates away before it collects enough to drip. Subaru recommends the use of their Cooling System Conditioner in all of the 2.5 engines from 99-up. It's basically a stop leak product. You drain the cooling system, add in the conditioner, and refill with Subaru coolant. Run the engine to operating temp for about an hour so it fully dissolves and works it way through the whole system. Costs less than $5 at the dealer.

The cheaper ones are more prone to breaking. But I forgot, there is a way you can tell if the bolts are original (if they aren't too rusty) you should be able to see paint marks on the top of the bolt heads. Those are the inspection marks for the factory after they torque the bolts. If they were the original bolts and broke, I would definitely think someone has been in that engine before. The head bolts on these are pretty tight. A breaker bar is necessary to get them loose, but if they broke its because the threads seized the end of the bolt in the block. That could come from moisture getting in and causing it to rust. That's normally only a problem if the heads are very rusty though. If the bolt heads are clean I would think someone has had the head off before and galled the threads or overstretched the bolt.

Something was definitely wrong with that engine if the head bolts broke while trying to remove them. Seriously overheated, or someone had been in there before and installed cheap head bolts or way over torqued them.

Depending on the tire, 225s may run the rear strut body. 215/65/16 fit great, and don't rub.

Yep. I think the worst part is fiddling with that stupid snap ring behind the bearing. Don't get carried away and forget to install a new outer seal before pressing the hub back in.

How old is the belt?

I have one. But I've only used it for front subaru wheel bearings so far. And yes, I also noted that their instructions don't cover rear wheel bearings. And even though they do have instructions for the front bearing, you pretty much have to ignore the tool numbers they list and pick out the ones that actually fit. Despite that, once you've used it a few times and know the correct sizes to actually use, its a pretty quick operation to change a bearing. If you have some that are badly stuck, I've found it helpful to pop the end of the forcing screw with a 3lb hammer after spinning it up tight. That may not be necessary if you have a stronger impact gun than I do. Heat can also be helpful. A torch on the knuckle for just long enough to get it warmed up usually helps break the rust loose. Just don't let it get too hot to the point of glowing. I'm sure with all the tools in the set there are the correct sized tools for the rear bearing.

That's the same one they used for all of the 2.2 cars up to 98. Easy to find in junkyards. Usually around $35-50. Could also check car-part.com for salvage yards near you. Also might try posting in the classifieds section here.

Did you ask to talk to the store manager? Advance just went through a supply/rebrand/merger thing with Carquest, and most all of the parts they sell now are Carquest boxed and branded versions of the same parts they used to sell. Some parts brands may have changed, and some of their previous brands may have been replaced or dropped. The warranty should still be valid, you just need to push the issue with the right person.

AWD cars the bearing has to be pressed into the knuckle before the hub can be pressed into the bearing. It can't be pre-assembled, so you will never see them for sale that way. FWD the knuckle has a spindle that the HBA just slips onto. AWD no ABS is a generic hub they can be used on many different vehicles, so manufacturers can justify making them. AWD ABS hubs are specific to Subaru. They almost never need to be replaced, so most manufacturers don't produce them. Those non-ABS hub and bearings are usually sold as a kit, hub and bearing, but not assembled because they have to be pressed in separately.

I thought there was a chunk of some sort on the regulator that keeps it from rolling open too far. Could be wrong, I haven't messed with a Subaru window in a while.

Here's an interesting tidbit with some good pics. http://www.drb-mattech.co.uk/Files/Light%20Bulb%20Examinations.pdf If you poke around internet-land enough there are lots of articles out there explaining various types of bulb failures.

Usually if its a clear bulb it's called a "City light" or something like that. 168 sounds about right. Should be a low wattage bulb, just enough to light up the reflector when the parking lights are on.

How old are the spark plugs and wires and what brand are they?

I've used galvanized primer plenty of times on car parts, steel wheels, metal outdoor furniture, etc. Seems to work pretty well. It definitely lasts longer than paint alone. If you want paint to stick to metal, use an etching primer. Makes paint stick like stank on... well, you know... Etching primer tends to be pretty expensive though, and can really mess up some materials so you have to be careful where you use it.

+1 n what Texan said. Common issue, and would cause your initial problem as well as the current no start problem.

What's the part number on your original sensor?

Cats toast. It's running too rich and too much unburned fuel is going down the exhaust. Need to figure out why its running rich and fix that first, or it'll ruin another cat.

MaxLife is good stuff. I've never bought oil through amazon, but I'll have to keep an eye on the prices there, especially if I can get a couple 5 quart jugs on Prime shipping.

If you broke the tip off the sensor it cant pickup the magnetic field from the reluctor teeth on the hub. Replace the sensor and your code will go away.

Cardoc is/was the man. Unfortunately, he has dropped off the grid, and the only people who know "where to" aren't saying. Good luck with your search!