Fairtax4me

There's no sleeve. The plugs thread straight into the cylinder head. Time-sert makes thread inserts specific for spark plug thread repairs, but they're expensive. A helicoil kit can be used if you feel comfortable doing that. Otherwise, looking at replacing the head, which is gonna be in the $700-1,000 range if you pay a shop to do it. Used heads can be bought for around $100 per side or less if you look around. Then gaskets and fluids will be another $100-150ish.

You have a break or poor connection in the power wire going to the bulb. There should be a connector in the wire harness somewhere behind the paneling on the right side of the cargo area. Check in the connector for corrosion. Also check for any wiring that may have been added on, such as trailer wiring, and spliced in with crimp connectors.

There are no tube seals on the 2.2. Oil leaking from the power steering pump or the pressure switch on top of the block.

P0106, 99 times out of 100 is just a loose or broken vacuum hose running to the switching solenoid or the MAP sensor. It should be hooked to a T off the back of the number 3 intake runner. One side of the T goes to the FPR, the other goes to the switching solenoid.

Rolled it this morning! Two hunnid fiddy!!! Makes over half a mil collectively between this one and my 95. I'd like to get this one to 300. Won't take long if I keep driving 60 miles a day to work and back. (Pay no mind to the speedometer... I promise I was "sitting still"...)

Vacuum leak. Possibly a bad injector rail seal, or bad manifold gasket. Try spraying some throttle body or carb cleaner around the base of the manifold and see of it changes the idle. (After warming up)

Unfortunate part about alloy wheels is they're easy to gouge. I've seen many an alloy wheel with large gouges from tire tools in the area where the bead of the tire seats against the rim. That causes a poor seal, and also exposes bare aluminum which corrodes in short order. Another issue I've found with newer tires, is the placement of a small barcode sticker on the bead of the tire. I assume the stickers are for manufacturing purposes, but they always put these stickers on in the worst possible place and it's usually crooked, in a spot where it gets between the bead and the rim of the tire. It causes a leak, even on a totally clean wheel. The stickers are incredibly hard to remove, dunno what kind of adhesive they use on them. I've had to use bead sealer on quite a few tires just because of those little stickers. Use some soapy water to find your leak and mark both the tire and the rim with a grease pen or marker so you can easily identify the problem once the tire is dismounted.

Depends on the condition of the cylinder walls. If the walls are scored and the block needs to be bored out, order pistons to match the overbore size. If they can just deglaze the cylinders to get the hone back, run standard size.

Mice.

Do you hear the injectors clicking? Bad o-rings on the injectors will also flood the engine.

First things first: Get a second opinion. Second, get a third opinion. You probably need an axle, that's your suddenly funky smell. The rest is probably nitpicking tech looking for something to work on.

What year outback?

If the marks are down to bare plastic you'll need an adhesion promoter. Depending on how deep they are, a bumper repair filler can be used to fill deeper scratches, then after sanding that smooth if there is any bare plastic use the adhesion promoter, then prime and paint. If it's just scuff marks (some other color of paint), try a light rubbing compound to see if they'll buff away first.

Same thing applies to Rockauto, Jegs, take your pick of any other online retailer. They all ship from multiple warehouses, sometimes the parts you need are in a warehouse on the other side of the country, (the world even), and it might cost an arm and a leg to get it depending on what kind of deal that retailer has worked with the carriers they use. You just have to pay attention to the shipping charges, and shop around for the best combo of purchase price + shipping.

Cool stuff! I'm digging the plaid and the BFGs! Just helped a friend of mine tear apart an engine out of a 71 beetle (belongs to a friend of his) and found a hole through the exhaust valve on number 3, and the crown of the piston melted and blown down across the rings on number 4! Both heads cracked. He's also working on a 79 bus engine to drop into his own 73 Super beetle. I tried to talk him into an EJ swap for that one, but he wanted to keep it VW.

Probably low on coolant. That should have been checked as soon as that red light started blinking. If it were out of coolant you wouldn't have made it ten miles. The engine didn't seize, so its likely it didn't majorly overheat, just needs some coolant added to it. But you also need to find the source of your leak. Coolant doesn't readily evaporate, the only way it gets low is if its leaking somewhere. Usually leaks on these are very slow, so fill it up and keep an eye on the coolant level.

Where's it's fin?

Difference might just be with the steel lines for the evap system that are attached to the manifold. Those are easy to work around. No major differences that I know of other than EGR vs non-EGR. Check the classifieds here. I'm pretty sure somebody has one for sale.

90-98. If yours has EGR you'll need one with EGR. (Can't remember if the 90-94 engines had EGR or not)

Lucky the axle came out. I've seen a couple of those so stuck there was nothing I could do to get them loose. 6 hours seems like a long time to me, but I'm not normally dealing with that much rust. Or snow.

If you do it right it will hold well enough for maybe 12-15 ftlbs. That will be plenty if you use RTV between the spacer and intake. I don't think I've ever even used a torque wrench on the manifold bolts on these. The value is so low I just snug them up with a ratchet. I've had plenty of other aluminum manifolds break. Older GM v6s (2.8,3.1,3.4,3.8) are especially bad because the bolt hole castings are thin and the design of the plenum is asking for problems when torquing the bolts. I use a coat of copper gasket spray on those and just snug the bolts up. I would go with anaerobic sealant both on the top and bottom of the spacer so you can bolt the manifold down onto a flat surface so it won't flex when you tighten the bolts. The sealer will make its own seal, so the torque spec will be less important.

Haven't heard of that being a big issue on those. Is there any kind of impact damage to the cat(s)?

You can't torque to the same spec with multiple gaskets. They crush more on the edges and will cause the manifold to bend and crack. You need to remove one or both sets of gaskets and use silicone RTV or anaerobic sealant on the flange. Remove the manifold, if the crack is not through the intake runner, you can use JB weld to re-attach the broken peice. You'll have to clean the paint off of the area around it and be sure to pu the manifold on a perfectly flat surface. Use a large clamp to hold the peice tight to the manifold.

Do you have gaskets on top of and below the spacer? Or does the spacer use o-rings? Did you work up to 20lb in steps or just start torquing at 20? Torque spec looks to be only 18lb for the ej22. That could vary if you have a different engine.

Bad u-joint or a worn carrier on the driveshaft.