Fairtax4me

If you look on the rear of the trans on the drivers side IIRC, there is a sensor bolted on that is the rear speed sensor.

Pull the green connector off and make sure it isn't full of coolant inside the connector. Clean it out with contact cleaner and let it dry or use compressed air to blow it dry.

High HC and high CO says its either not getting enough air, or its giving too much fuel. Plugs and wires are new, but I would pull one or two of the plugs and see if they're covered carbon from excessive fuel. Temp sensor or MAF sensor will also affect fuel delivery. MAF can be skewed enough to greatly affect fuel mixture at lower rpm.

There is an internal screen type filter. If the internal filter is damaged or loose the pickup may not be able to reach the fluid in the pan. Worth dropping the pan to take a look. If nothing obvious there, time for a transmission.

Looks good, mileage is good, price seems good. Where in VA are you?

Could it just be the belt slipping? Light coming on doesn't necessarily mean its overcharging. Have you checked it with a voltmeter? Worse than damaging the battery, overcharging can fry your control modules. By modules, (plural) I mean ALL of them.

No need to wait. Put in on and tighten. On something like a valve cover gasket or oil pan gasket, they recommend waiting a short time for it to cure slightly before tightening because that will allow it to seal larger voids. On some oil pans this is necessary. On Subaru oil pans, it's not necessary.

Purge solenoid under the manifold. When this sticks open or the valve is dirty, it allows fuel vapor from the tank to be pushed into the intake manifold while re-fueling. This causes the air fuel mixture to be too rich for a few seconds when starting, basically causing a flood condition, and the engine may not start. After a few cranks the excess vapor is sucked out and the engine will start. Find the vacuum hose that runs from the solenoid to the throttle body, pull if off the throttle body and blow into it. If the valve is bad you'll be able to blow air through it. Usually its because or carbon stuck in the seat area of the valve, but sometimes the valve just goes bad and doesn't seal properly anymore. You can temporarily plug the vacuum hose to prevent starting issues. You'll likely still get a CEL until the solenoid is replaced.

Any less difficult if you press the clutch pedal twice? If you press the pedal then wait 3-5 seconds before trying to move into gear?

Did you replace all 4 calipers? Did you bleed all 4 calipers?

Burned valve would cause a dead miss at idle. Most likely just has an intermittent/occasional misfire. Plug and wires.

You're checking and filling the trans fluid through the dipstick on the left side by the starter, correct? Is the trans pan dented? Have you removed the trans pan to check the condition of the internal filter?

This is how ALL sun/moon roofs work. There is no way to get a perfect seal around the opening and still be able to open/close the glass at will. Water drips in around the edges into a tray that surrouds the opening. The water is then allowed to flow into drain tubes at each corner of the tray, where it then drains out underneath the car.

Put it in test mode and make sure the fans work. If you have a scanner that reads OBD live data make sure the ECM temp sensor is reading properly. Temp guage on my 96 sits slightly lower than the one on my 95. But The 96 runs about 5-8° hotter than the 95. (according to the ECU temp reading on tmy scanner. 96 runs about 195, 95 runs about 189) Where the guage sits will depend on the condition of the wiring and can also vary based on the sensor. I wouldn't worry about that too much as long as it isn't creeping up higher.

Coolant temp sensor.

Is the belt already removed? Did the belt break?

If it has any burrs just file down the rough edge just enough to not interfere with new sprocket/pulley. The new key sits against the undamaged edge so the new pulley and sprocket will still line up properly.

Nope. The key is fairly soft steel. It won't hurt it anymore than what's already been done. Once the sprocket is removed youll be able to pop the key out. Take the undamaged section to Napa and buy a new peice of key stock that matches in size.

Tap threads into the holes in the sprocket and use a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller to pull it off. When you install the new sprocket and crank pulley, torque the crank bolt to about 140 ftlbs.

Most spark plug thread chasers have a wide hex that won't fit down the plug hole on the 2.2. If it was spinning and he couldn't get the plug out, more than likely it pulled all the threads out of the head anyway. Threading in a new plug will probably only grab enough threads to have it blow out again after the engine gets warmed up.

Impreza uses a pressed in bearing. Disassemble it and have a shop press the bearing out/in or get a used knuckle/hub assembly.

Among American market bolts/fasteners it is relatively uncommon. Among Asian and European vehicles, it is a fairly common size. Tap kits often skip many sizes. M10x1.5 is a more common size found in tap kits because that tends to be used more often on newer American vehicles.

Do you need the bolts or are the threads stripped out of the block? Twice I've had to run a 3/8" bolt all the way through and put a nut on the other end. Threads in the block are either M10x1.25 or M10x1.5.

You've got the block torn down that far just have the deck (top surface) milled. At that point another $100 isn't gonna break the bank. My normal method once the major head gasket bits are removed is to use 1000 grit sand paper to give a final finish.

Unplug the fuel injector. It'll still chuff as air is forced in/ out of the plug hole, but it can be driven that way for a short time.