Fairtax4me

Does the engine crank when you turn the key? Or does it not do anything at all? When you plug in the code reader does it power up when it's plugged in, but just won't connect with the ECU?

When you push the button the green LED under it should turn on. If it doesn't, usually this is because one of the buttons is stuck. Dirt, dust, sticky stuff getting spilled on the dash, over time can cause the buttons to stick. Its best to remove the control head and unplug it, then spray around the buttons with some glass cleaner and push each button several times. Eventually you'll feel them start working properly again. Then let it dry really well (couple hours) before plugging it back in. If the green LEDs do light up, then the problem could be the mode door actuator motor, which is on the side of the air box under the center dash. Pretty sure that one is on the left side of the box, somewhere next to or near the gas pedal. With the key On push each button and listen closely to see if you can hear the motor turn. Also try to touch the motor and see if you can feel it doing anything when you change modes on the control head. If you feel/ hear the motor moving but the mode doesn't change, could be stripped gears in the motor housing, or the mode door is broken. Hope its the motor.

Crawl under and check the wiring going to the rearmost sensor. There are two wires the same color, those are for the heater in the sensor. Back probe the connector on one of those two wires and check for 12v reaching the sensor. Be sure to check both. If you google around here for Subaru Factory service manual there are some links where you can download one.

I usually try to wire brush the threads and blast them with compressed air to knock the scale and dirt away before trying to loosen rusty fasteners. Still might have to work them back and forth a few times but it makes it a lot easier when you're not compacting rust into the threads.

IAC makes noise sometimes. Shouldn't be doing it all the time though. Poor ground connection maybe? 95 ECU grounds down at the back of the #4 runner at the base of he manifold IIRC.

White indicates its running too lean. Were the plugs on the 2-4 side the same color? If just the 1-3 side were white you could have a vacuum leak at the manifold gasket or the fuel rail o-rings on that side.

Its just an aluminum crush washer. Sounds like someone had already fudged it up so bad you may not get it back to 100% leak free. Take the adapter out, go down to Napa with it and pick up an aluminum crush washer that fits it. No silicone, tighten it to about 18-20 ft lbs. Use thread tape on the oil sender threads.

Ive used that Gates thermostat several times. They're not quite the same quality as OE, but they're the same design and size, and they work very well. The big issue is with the cheaper, smaller, universal thermostats. The Gates is an OE style replacement and is fine to use.

Control arm bushing or ball-joint/tie rod end.

Torque bind. Lots of info around here about that.

X2 what Ferret said. You'll see two switches screwed into the transmission case on the drivers side. The neutral switch is the furthest to the rear. Clutch safety switch on the pedal has NOTHING to do with this code.

That may be true of the ford, but in traditional 4 and 6cylinder flat engines each cylinder fires at separate times. Subaru does not fire two cylinders at once. Two spark plugs receive a spark at the same time, but only one of those is on the power stroke for its cylinder.

Asking about plug firing, I'm guessing you read that each two plugs fire at the same time? Its a waste spark ignition system. Each plug pair is fired at the same time, but one of the plugs is fired on the power stroke of one cylinder, while the opposite plug is fired on the exhaust stoke of the opposing cylinder. The spark on the exhaust stroke doesn't actually do anything, thus it is "wasted". Hence the name.

$10 seal takes maybe 45 minutes to replace it. Pull the driveshaft off and make sure the front U-joint isn't locked up. If the u-joint is bad it can make the shaft wobble and ruin the seal and the bushing in the tail housing. If the bushing is damaged you'll need a used tail housing. Probably just the seal went bad, but worth a couple minutes to check those things to be sure.

Besides the extra cost, it would be a useless feature for the average Subaru driver. Useless in that it would probably never get used, and if it did it would probably be used incorrectly. Adding in a switch creates a situation where damage can occur if the switch is flipped at the wrong time, Warranty claims that may be denied, and lower customer satisfaction ratings. Maybe they add in some coding in the TCU to prevent sudden engagement of the transfer clutches of the switch is flipped at an improper time. But that again adds cost.

You can do that as long as the block isn't scored. If the cylinders are scored or significantly out of round they may need to be bored larger than the standard 25 over. Have the block bored first, then order pistons to match the overbore. Same with the crank and rods, have any necessary work done on them before ordering bearings to match.

Only other idea I can suggest is to unhook the battery negative for 15-20 minutes then reconnect. More than likely one of the sensors is not responding. A lot of tire shops now have TPMS scanners that can read and reset the sensors. You might try calling a few and see what they charge to check the sensors. If it's not a sensor issue, it will need to go to a dealer.

The A/B sizes have to do with fit tolerances because of variations in the bore sizes. At the factory they bore both the cylinders on each bank at the same time with separate bore heads. The differences between the two are minor, but enough that a very slightly different sized piston will create a better fit. When you have the cylinders re-bored (if that's the plan) they will all be done with the same bore head, one at a time, thus they will all be the same size afterward. New oversized pistons only need to match the new bore size. (0.25mm or .50mm over)

Will it happen if you just sit in the driveway with the headlights on? If it will, leave them on both high for 15-20 minutes then leave them on low for 15-20 minutes and see if it happens only on low, or on both.

Could be the hi/lo switch going bad. Does it do the same if the high beams are on?

If you had any bent valves compression numbers would be under 100 on at least one cylinder. Compression is good, it runs smooth, its fine. Replace the other timing parts and keep on driving!

The light will not blink due to low tire pressure. Blinking means there is a fault with the system.

If the light is blinking that means there is a problem with one of the sensors, or the receiver control unit. Either one of the sensors has stopped responding, or for some reason the control unit has lost its programming or has some type of electrical fault. From other Subarus I've seen, the temporary spare does not have a sensor. You can try resetting the system by installing a fuse in the test port in the underhood fuse panel. Open the top and you'll find a lone empty fuse hole in the back right corner. It is unlabeled. This is called the PDI fuse on newer Subarus. Insert a spare fuse of any rating (also should be in the fuse panel) into the holder and turn the ignition switch to On for a few seconds. You'll hear some clicking and the radiator fans will cycle on and off a few times. Turn the key Off, and remove the fuse. Put it back in its spare holder and reinstall the cover. Take the car for a drive at about 25 mph for 3-5 minutes to for the TPMS system relearn the sensor pressures. If it still blinks it will likely need to go to a dealer for a diagnostic.

The motor is drawing too much current and it's tripping the power window circuit breaker. Couple things to try. First remove the door panel and lubricate the window regulator center pivot and the rollers with spray lithium grease. Lubricate the tracks that the glass slides in (at the front and rear edges of the glass) with silicone spray. Work the window up and down several times to allow the grease to be spread around. This will make it easier for the motor to move the window up and down. Next check the wire connector on the motor for corrosion or dirt in the pins.

Were you having a shift problem before or just had the code?