Fairtax4me

FSMs are out there in internet land, though sometimes they're not complete or well organized/labeled. As above, searching google for " 19xx/20xx Subaru Factory service manual" generally yields good results.

Just disconnect the sway bar link and use a pry-bar to shove the control arm down. You aren't going to push the spring/strut up, and even if you can, that's the absolutely most unsafe way to do this.

Auto trans fluid loses its friction characteristics as it gets old due to the additives in the fluid breaking down. New fluid makes a big difference.

P1325 means the reference voltage to the knock sensor is being grounded before reaching the sensor or the sensor is damaged internally and its resistance is lower than it is supposed to be. If you have an ohmmeter you can test the circuit. Use a paper clip or needle to back probe the sensor connector, turn the key On and check voltage at the connector. Should be around 2.5 volts. Now unplug the sensor and check voltage again, voltage should be about 5 volts. If voltage is less than 4.5v, the signal wire to the sensor is probably shorted somewhere. Check resistance of the knock sensor. It should be 560k-580k ohms. If resistance is higher, remove the sensor and make sure the mounting surface under the sensor is clean and free of corrosion. Re-check resistance of the sensor with it removed from the car. If the resistance is lower than 560k ohm, the sensor is damaged and should be replaced.

Low on the dipstick won't cause any problem on a cold start. Cold start noise is usually a faulty drain back valve in the oil filter.

99 should have a stub on the trans with a roll pin holding the axle on. Knock the roll pin put with a punch and the axle slides off. The hard part is the wheel end. Axle nuts get rusty/seize, ball joints are difficult to get loose. I usually just undo the lower strut bolts. Loose the lower and remove the upper. Clean and Mark the alignment of the strut base with the knuckle first so you can line them back up the same when done. Once the knuckle is pulled out the axle easily pops off of the inner stub then you slide it back out of the wheel hub. I've done them in less than 20 minutes on my own cars, but that's because everything has been apart before and is well coated with antiseize and grease to prevent rust.

Slave cylinder travel should be about an inch to inch and a quarter. That part sounds fine. Is there resistance when you push the pedal? Does it push back up all the way on its own?

Actually pretty easy to do, with a simple push button and a diode. But you need to know if the washer fluid pump is on a switched power or switched ground circuit. If you have a multimeter you can figure that out pretty easily.

Is it connected to anything? Is it live? Does it come from the fuse panel, and if not, Is there a fuse on it?

Some small flakes can be normal. The engine sheds metal the whole time its in use. Any mechanical thing does. If you start seeing bigger flakes or lots of silver swirl in the oil, that can be a sign of a major problem. Ill second getting an oil analysis done if its something that bothers you. Usually about $25. Ive used Oil Anayzers Inc several times in the past and they are pretty quick.

Whats that red wire all wrapped up in the corner of that pic?

How bout year and model?

Dunno what the ARP stuff is, but it should be fine to use since the final torque step is designed to stretch the head bolts anyway. If it'll make them easier to turn you'll just have an easier time getting that last 90° turn on the bolts.

Thanks for the replies. Been super busy with work lately. Trying to learn all I can about golf carts and ATVs since those are the two major projects I'm facing lately. 15 Golf carts of all different years and configurations. Gas, electric, some that run, some that don't, most of them broken or in need of significant repair. So I've been perusing several golf cart forums and lots of websites for info on those. All u-joint drive shafts wobble when they're spinning, because of the nature of the way a U-joint works. They don't rotate perfectly on center, so the two u-joints on a typical driveshaft are offset so the amount of wobble is balanced, which cancels out the vibration that it causes. The angles of the u-joints also have to match so that the off-center distance of the shaft is equal at each end as it spins around. This is fairly common knowledge in the 4x4 and jeep off-road world since they regularly install large lift kits that require altering driveshaft angles. In Subarus case, I think they went with a two peice shaft for several reasons. One being clearance. To keep the COG as low as possible they have mounted the driveshaft very high up in the transmission tunnel. (Basically moved the frame and chassis of the car closer to the ground.) This requires using a small diameter driveshaft, only about 2-1/2". But due to the length of the shaft, there is a high chance of the shaft flexing and oscillating during certain load conditions and certain RPMs. To cut down on that the shaft is chopped into two peices, with a third u-joint, and a carrier bearing used in the center to support the driveshaft. The problem with that is it adds another point where lateral movement can occur, which can cause a sloppy feel and cause vibration if the carrier bearing support wears. It will also cause a major vibration if the u-joint angles are even slightly off, because there isn't a 4th u-joint to balance out the motion of the third. As a result, the driveshaft has to be almost a perfectly straight shot from transmission output shaft to differential pinion flange. DSS makes their steel and aluminum driveshafts out of 3" tube, which requires minor modification to certain parts under the car for clearance around the shaft (such as the lower rear diff cover). The driveshaft is less likely to oscillate due to the larger diameter tube. On a standard height vehicle, there may also be modifications necessary to the shift mechanism and linkage, and to the driveshaft tunnel. My car is lifted, with 2" crossmember blocks front and rear, so I have plenty of room for the wider diameter driveshaft, and plenty of room for adjustment if I need to adjust transmission output shaft and rear pinion angles. I've heard about similar humming/vibration sounds from other vehicles with carbon fiber driveshafts. Kinda wonder if that's a harmonic vibration occurring because of the rigidity of carbon fiber. As on case anyone is wondering, yes there are some vehicles with 3-peice driveshafts. (4 u-joints and two carrier bearings)

They won't do as well as a mud/snow rated tire, and they won't come close to what a dedicated snow tire will do, but they'll be Ok for light snow, especially with the Subaru AWD. They'll go just fine. Stopping will be the difficult part.

Kinda have to drive them in as far as the previous seal was. Especially if the seal area has any rust or dirt on it. The drain hole for the seal is fairly large, so as long as there isn't RTV or sludge buildup blocking the drain, these are usually ok to drive in as far as they'll go.

On these the copper terminals are usually the high current side/switched side. Plated or silver terminals will be the control/coil side. Quick check is the poke them with an ohmmeter. One set of terminals will show some amount of resistance (8-15 ohms maybe, depends on the relay). The other set will show either infinite resistance or 0 resistance depending on if its a normally open (most common) or normally closed relay.

Nope. You tell the trans its in 1 and it stays in 1 all the time. When the duty C and transfer clutches are functioning properly the engagement is flawless, you won't even notice it. If the fluid change doesn't help, probably need to replace the transfer clutches.

Try jumping the security interlock relay. I wanna say its on the left side of the steering column kind of between the column and fuse box area.

The original bolts are torque to yield bolts, but people re-use them all the time. The first few steps up to the "back of 180°" step only seat the gasket in a certain way to help make the gasket crush more even on the final torque steps. That process does not cause the bolts to stretch at all. By the time the process is done the bolts will be torqued to over 100 ft lbs. Even then the bolt stretch is minimal, which is why the Subaru bolts get re-used all the time. Aftermarket bolts may not fare as well to repeated use. The torque procedure in the service manual applies to any head bolt, factory or aftermarket. If the aftermarket bolts required a different procedure that would be included with the bolts.

People actually USE those bolts?! I chuck em in the scrap pile as soon as I open the box.

Yes, Use the factory torque sequence. No, new bolts are not required.

Lucas Injector Cleaner is snake oil? I use that stuff religiously because it just plain works. I use Seafoam all the time as well. Does wonders for rough idle and hard starts. You just cant be an idiot and try to dump the whole bottle in all at once. If that car has electronic throttle control it could be in need of a throttle body cleaning.

How bout Year? Model? Engine?

Could be a Vacuum leak. Double check all of the PCV and breather hoses. Did you remove the intake manifold? Used new gaskets?