Fairtax4me

Knock sensor.

Alternator for the 3.6 engines is 130? amps I think. I know someone here has put one in a second gen legacy, I just don't remember who off the top of my head. Not sure about fitment on the EA engine. You may have better luck asking in the older gen forum.

Fun... yeah... we can call it that... Actually it's not too bad. Most things are fairly accessible. The worst part is that some of the larger parts are very heavy, and some nuts/bolts require large heavy tools. Congrats on a job well done! Some jobs take forever, but when the work is all done and everything is working properly there's no better feeling than to kick back with a beer and bask in the feeling of accomplishment!

Hook a test light to the start wire on the starter solenoid and make sure it's not staying energized after you release the key. It's probably not, but its a quick easy check to make sure before you replace the starter. The solenoid on that starter is not serviceable, but you could remove the starter and clean any dust/dirt from the area of the pinion and apply a thin lubricant oil.

Sawzall? The duty C doesn't do anything if the car is off. It's going to the junkyard, doesn't really matter what happens to the trans by dragging it around on a dolly.

Merry Christmas everyone!

El Niño is definitely making things interesting this year. Went fishing with my buddy last weekend and we were sitting in the boat in shorts and t shirts. Still feels like hurricane season with the rain and humidity.

SUBARU Subaru Reman alternators for that year go for about $85 at the dealer. Order online if your local dealer can't go that cheap. That and I've also had good luck with junkyard alternators. Find one with the sticker that says Remanufactured by Subaru on it. Part number: 23700aa34ara $78 Retail list.

Shouldn't have to hold the rail to keep it down. Once it pops into the seals it should stay. If engine oil isnt slick enough, use chassis grease. I often use a prybar on other engines to push injectors and rails back on, but I don't remember there being much on the Subaru to get a purchase on to push Down with. Steady even pressure with a little bit of a wiggle side to side and they should pop on. If you would rather work on tractors we can trade for a few days...

Using the spare will cause problems for the auto trans cars, but generally the damage is caused to the rear transfer clutches in the transmission. (Could be the cause for your AT temp light) But it is possible that if the trans is trying to drive the rear wheels when the spare is on that binding can occur in the rear differential, and that can cause overheating of the fluid, especially if the fluid is old or if the fluid level is low. Next time you need to use the spare, be sure its on the rear of the car, and a fuse is installed in the front wheel drive fuse holder. I would recommend replacing the leaking axle seal and changing the rear diff fluid. Plain 80-90 gear oil works fine. If you can't change the seal right away, at least change the fluid. Takes just a hair over a quart IIRC. I buy the cheapo stuff from Walmart for $13 a gallon. The flashing AT light indicates there is a fault code stored in the AT control module. This means there is a problem with a sensor or one of the solenoids in the transmission. Search around for how to pull auto trans codes. There's a funny handshake thing you have to do. I can never remember the steps off the top of my head, I just search google and find it when I need it.

X2 on the Igniter, and make sure you have 12v on the center wire of the coil pack.

Probably not getting spark. The ECU uses cam and crank sensor both to determine crank position for spark and fuel, both need to be working or you get no spark. Recheck your wiring connection. The crank sensor wires are sheilded, (grey jacketed wiring) you have to make sure the silver sheilding wire is NOT touching the copper signal wires. The sheilding wire is grounded and if it touches the signal wire it shorts the sensor so the ECU doesn't get any signal from if.

What was the code number? When it cranks does it crank fast? Sound smooth? You should be able to count 4 chugs in a row. Fuel pump only runs to prime the system, it will only continue running if the engine starts. If the engine doesn't start the ECU turns off the fuel pump relay.

I couldnt remember if Legacy had a MAF that year or not. I think the Forester may have for 99-01ish. Whenever you see fuel trim numbers maxed out all the way in one direction or the other, probably gonna be an O2 sensor problem. Can you do another screenshot at idle, and include TPS in your PID list.

If the whole rail is pulled up, just need to remove it, clean the rail cups, wipe some engine oil on the seals and on the rail and push it back down in. But if the seals are damaged they'll need to be replaced.

Engine running or engine off?

Does it have a MAF sensor? I would suspect that if it does. Front O2 sensor would be my next suspect.

Ive used them all, WD40 is useful for many things, but as a penetrating oil it really doesn't work. PB is usually my Go-to since most of the stores around here carry it. I use some stuff called Buster at work, but its only available by the case straight from ATCO, the manufacturer. A case would last a DIYer a lifetime if the aerosol didn't get out. I have been using about a can a month, so a case will probably last me 12-15 months. Anyway, Back on Topic... O2 sensors are easier to remove hot, IF you can get access to it without burning yourself.

SOHC engines are easy. Set crank at the timing mark, passenger side cam at its timing mark. Turn the drivers cam so the timing mark is straight down. Now all 16 valves are closed and you can turn the crank as much as you need, just be sure to only turn it clockwise. DOHC heads are more difficult. Same thing applies, set crank and passenger side cams at their proper timing marks. The drivers side cams you have to rotate at the same time to avoid valves possibly hitting each other. Kinda tricky. Use two wrenches or small breaker bars so the cams don't snap over.

I'll be drinking margaritas and pina coladas on Christmas Day because it's supposed to be 75 here. Some rain in the forecast tomorrow and Wednesday. After that, hot and sunny. Near 80 on the 24th. Its July in Christmas!

I thought the R180s were the only ones that got the fins.

Grab that upper radiator support and pull it back forward. They're not that tough, a couple good pulls and it'll be back where it's supposed to be. That upper hose is pinched off. You're getting water fountain flow where coolant should be blasting like a fire hose through there.

Is the new blower a junkyard part? The common cause for that is the armature brushes are stuck in the brush holders. If its a new aftermarket blower take it back because its faulty.

You can't force the trans into first gear while rolling. It damages the synchronizer on 1st gear. Use 2nd while rolling, or you must come to a complete stop before going into first. Reverse switch is activated by the shift selector shaft inside the trans, not by the external shifter linkage. No reverse lights: make sure the bulbs work first. Make sure the fuse is good and make sure voltage is getting to the bulbs. Wagons have problems with the wiring going into the hatch where it bends at the top. Wires break in the flexible dust tube there and cause lights not to work.

Didn't catch that before. 180° crank rotation 90° cam rotation.