Fairtax4me

How many miles on it? You'll be hard pressed to get 12Gs for a fixed car with an accident history, but it depends on mileage and what other maintenance has been done. You might be better off to look into a JDM used engine. They're generally less expensive than a rebuilt.

Was number 4 the only plug with oil fouling? Were the rest totally clean or just less fouled than number 4?

Tps is adjustable and needs to be set so there is 0.5v on the center pin with throttle closed. If someone messed with the TPS they could have messed with the throttle stop screw on the throttle body as well. Adjusting this changes the amount of airflow around the throttle plate at closed throttle and will alter the idle air/fuel mixture. It also throws off the ECUs ability to control idle speed with the idle air control valve. There should be a paint mark on the adjusting screw and the lock nut for the throttle stop, if the paint marks are not aligned, or the paint is broken, the throttle stop needs to be reset before adjusting the TPS. Once the TPS is properly adjusted, you need to reset the ECU by unhooking the battery negative cable for 10-15 minutes. Then restart and allow the ECU to relearn its idle settings.

I think it should be getting 12v. Double check that. If the voltage is low it may be something related to the remote start install. Also Try to push/pull the lever that thing moves by hand to make sure the lock mechanism it moves freely. Maybe give it a couple quick shots of silicone spray.

Still under warranty, the dealer should cover it. There is a problem with the first gear synchro, could have been caused before you even bought the car by the transporter leaving it in first gear on the truck going to the dealer. If the dealer claims they can't replicate it, and you know you can, go there and drive the car while the tech watches.

Auto trans, probably gonna be the front pinion bearing. The noise you hear is probably not from the bearing but from the change in clearance between the ring gear and pinion gear. ANY change in clearance between those two will cause extreme wear to both due to the nature of the type of gears they are. Without warning they can clash and shatter both gears, and you'll be lucky to limp it off the highway. It may cause the front wheels to lock while you're driving and leave you stuck in the middle of the road. If the sound is noticeable, its time to park it until the bearing is replaced. You may also have to replace the two gears, depending on how much wear there is. Often a used transmission is less expensive and more practical than disassembling the trans and replacing parts inside it.

Ok so you're hearing the key-lock solenoid engage, which is what prevents the key from being removed unless the shifter is in park. You should be hearing a solenoid click under the shifter when you hit the brake pedal. I think the solenoid should be somewhere beneath the shift lock emergency release (white button in the pic), possibly under the black plastic cover on the right side.

There is oil pressure behind the cam and crank seals. It seals the bearing journal and the cam journal is pressure lubricated. There was a thread here not long ago about a cam seal pushing out as soon as the engine started because of a clogged drain hole. Napa uses a few different brands for their seals. Have seen some that are great and some not so much. Subaru seals are always very high quality. You pay a little extra but there's no gambling on the quality of what's in the box. (Plastic baggie in Subarus case) On the rubber body seals I've never had to use RTV or other sealer to get them to stay put. A little fresh engine oil on the outside usually is all they need to pop into place. I've used grease before as well, but only a small amount. If the seals are just leaking, that could either be due to seal quality, old oil residue left on the shaft, or the shaft was damaged when the old seals were removed. Get one of these Lisle seal pullers if you don't have one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FPYW4K?vs=1 I've found one seal in maybe 100 that it couldn't pull. Metal housing seal that was rusted into a sbc350 timing cover. Everything else I've used it on it pulls with ease and has never even left a mark.

A CV problem won't cause a bearing failure. A bearing failure can cause CV problems though. Tons of other things can cause early bearing failure: Cheap bearing installed last time Improperly installed Improperly torqued axle nut Using old hub seals or forgetting to install new seals (had that happen on my 95) If it lasted two years, I would guess either the first or the last above. Many parts places offer a warranty on bolt-in bearing/hub assemblies, but usually not for press-in type, and at that, warranties are generally only 30-90 days, Sometimes 1 year. Id find a new shop. They're ripping you off installing cheap parts to get you to come back and spend more.

Auto or manual?

After cranking a few seconds can you smell fuel at the tail pipe? Test for spark. Cheapo spark tester is a screw driver stuck in the end of a plug wire. Hold the handle with the shaft of the screwdriver about 1/2" from a metal part of the engine.

Can use any 90-98 ej block. Put your heads on it. Was the engine starved for oil? If so you need to pull your cams out of the heads and check the journals for scoring. Scored cam journal will cause the cam to seize.

Can't say I've heard of this being a problem. Normally popping out of gear is a synchronizer problem. Do you force the transmission into first gear while still rolling?

Can you hear/feel the release solenoid at the base of the shifter when you hit the brake? If so, it may not be pulling back all the way. Those are known to get sticky residue on them from drinks/coffee spills in the console. Pull the console cover off, find the solenoid and check it for dust buildup, dried up sticky stuff, or dried up grease preventing it from retracting all the way.

Its not going to be fixed as long as they still use the same multi-link rear suspension design they started using in 05. Pre-05 models don't have this problem because the rear suspension is a simpler design and less prone to camber/toe changes when the suspension moves.

Shouldn't hurt it any. If the light bothers you you can get a TPMS service tool and re-calibrate it for the new wheels with each swap. There are some that are relatively inexpensive made by ATEQ, though you would have to check with them for compatibility for such a new vehicle. If you have to pay $200 for the tool and use it twice, that's the same as paying a dealer $100 to re-calibrate it twice. After that is all money saved.

Battery fully charged? Wrong timing gears?

The white marks on the belt wont line up again for another 100+ revolutions of the engine. Need to pay attention to the dash marks on the pulleys, NOT the belt.

I keep a spare of every sensor on the engine just in case. Never know when a crank or cam sensor will crap out. MAF or temp sensor might not leave you stuck but it can make your morning or evening commute pretty unpleasant.

I have a handful of rubber vacuum line caps that I use. You can get them at most parts stores for a few bucks for a variety pack. You can also use the little silicone thread protector caps for screws. I've seen them at some hardware stores in the specialty fasteners section.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/79577-abs-diagnosis-connector-location/ Pic there. Its a black 6 pin plug. Two open spade terminals are ground pins, taped in the same harness. Pin 3 is the K terminal Pin 6 is the L terminal It looks giant sized in the picture but that connector is really only about 3/4" wide.

I know! I wipe a gob of antiseize on the ends and hope for the best! Generally only takes a few seconds with a bench grinder to get the extra material off, but have to be very careful to not take too much off. I re-painted the ends one time and it just took way too long for the paint to dry. I Don't have all day to do a brake job!

Battery voltage may be too low, or battery cables/terminals are corroded. I would definitely suspect that if it has replacement terminals. Also be sure to check the ground cable connection on the block. Had a tractor starter run me around the mill earlier this week because of corroded cables.

What brand of seals did you use? Were the seals installed all the way to the bottom of the bore? This can sometimes block the drain hole in the bottom and oil pressure can force the seal out.

Automatic trans the start voltage runs through the park/nuetral switch on the trans. Possible worn contact in the switch or a poor connection in the plug that goes to the switch.