rxleone

I know there's a few NZ guys floating around on these forums so decided to give it a shot. My heater core in my 88' EA82 wagon is completely shot and I need a new one. I had a replacement priced ex-Australia through a local radiator shop at $440 + tax and that is just too expensive for me. Anyone have a good source for heater core replacements? Don't mind paying for shipping if it's a decent price for the core.

Nice! I just read through this entire thread hoping you'd find what was up. Glad to hear it's fixed - gutted it took so long to find.

Any ideas how to get this plastic fastener off? It's off one of the vents that control hot/cold air. It is in the way of taking the heater core out, I managed to get it out but was bending the arm quite a bit and I'd like to avoid in if possible when putting the heater core back in. As you can see I've already had a crack at it with a screwdriver. Is this a non-servicable item or am I just being dumb?

Thanks Dave - I may ask a radiator shop and see if they can weld the hole. I've found a few instructions so will post back when I get a chance in the weekend to take out the dash. Cheers!

Thanks for the advice - where should I go now? I've never done a heater core replacement but am keen to try. Are they something you can buy aftermarket? Am I better off pulling a JY one?

Yeah, heaps of hot air coming out, all settings work correctly.

Hi all, back after a long stint away from old Subbies but have picked up an 88' EA82 wagon with 215k miles. It's a carbed model. Problem I have is the heater fogs up the windscreen when put on hot & defrost. Doesn't seem to clear more than half the windscreen after about ten minutes of running at operating temp. Is this normal or does it indicate more serious problems eg. coolant leaking in heater core? Nice to be back in an old Subaru again!

In New Zealand we usually change our belts every 100,000km (60,000mi) as a rule. Doesn't look like it happened. I have already replaced all the pulleys, tensioner, water pump etc.

Thanks! I already have - just finished doing all the pulleys, the tensioner, new water pump and belt. Better safe than sorry. Just a baby - 204,000km (or 126k miles). I think this may be the first time the belt has been changed. Thanks! It's a 1997 Forester C/20 - runs a SOHC EJ20J with a dual-range five speed manual trans. Only has about 120hp, but it's a good little car Here's a photo of it in it's natural habitat

I hate to think about how much longer this one might have held out for... Check your timing belt now!!

I'm not sure on the details, so take this with a grain of salt, but I've heard the USDM EZ30s need the automatic transmission computer linked or they throw about three codes. There is a JDM spec EZ30 6MT Legacy, so there must be a factory workaround somewhere. Sorry, that's all the information I have

Isn't there some sort of issue with mating the EZ30 to a manual transmission?

Looks like the leaking water pump was a blessing in disguise...this timing belt looks ready to give up at any time!

Thanks for the heads up. Got the parts this afternoon so will let you know how I go.

Thanks for the info. I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info regarding whether or not the water pump gasket goes on dry. I'm getting a genuine Subaru gasket (rubber coated metal) - do I need to use any sealant or can it go on dry?

Looks like the timing job will be fast tracked to this weekend. Thanks for the info guys. Couple questions regarding the timing job - do the ej motors run a gasket on the water pump or rtv? Anything special I should know for the job? I've done an ej timing job with my dad when I was younger but this'll be the first time by myself. Any helpful tips?

I've had a bit of a flow on effect after fixing the coolant bypass hose on my Forester - my thermostat started leaking, which I then fixed, but now my water pump has started leaking from where it mates on to the block. My car needs a timing belt done in about six weeks so I will be putting on a new water pump at that time. What are my options in the meantime to stop/slow down the leak? Can I tighten the water pump up without removing the crank pulley?

I'm not sure about EJ-powered cars, but on the old EA82s you used to be able to start them with a screwdriver - the key barrel and ignition could be seperated. I'd take the plastic shroud off around the ignition and see if this is a possibilty.

Thanks guys - I will try this very shortly and get back to you on it! UPDATE - Turns out I did trace the wrong plug to the switch..It turned out to be the middle plug. So I put a jumper between it... And guess what happened? I tried the trick posted by Ivan above - the lights worked properly for a couple of goes then died. Thanks for the tip but I think this switch is part of the 10%. Any advice on whether I should buy a switch new or go through a junkyard?

I've checked the ones under the hood too - mainly just a visual inspection but from my diagrams it looks as the Fuse 18 is the one for the reverse light, so I pinned that. I did check with the key on - should have mentioned that

WARNING: LARGE PHOTOS AHEAD I've got a bit of a problem with my 98 5MT Fozzy - no reverse lights. Figured it'd be a simple problem with the switch, which I figure is the one illuminated below with the red wires. So I pulled off my airbox to get to the plug. Now, I'm fairly sure that the brown plug goes to the reverse switch... Hello! No power on the circuit when I test it with a test light. So I figured it must be a fuse right? I checked every fuse in the fuse box...nothing. (I had to check every one because, being JDM, my Forester has a fuse box label like this. Handy huh? Does anyone have any idea on what this possibly could be? I can't find any info pertaining to which fuse is actually for the reverse lights either. I'm thinking a worn/corroded connector. About to go and dig through a manual I downloaded on the internet for the diagram to see if I can track down where it goes wrong. Would be nice to be able to see when I'm going backward at night!

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm thinking you don't have a really good idea of all the work involved with swapping a turbo motor into a NA. 987687 is trying to help you out with some of the details here. I think we get the picture that you don't have enough money to buy a WRX where you are... In that case, I'd take a step back, realise my monetary situation isn't perfect for buying a WRX (or the headaches and issues you're inevitably going to encounter when doing a swap, and they cost money), and reevaluate what you really should do. I'm not sure what "mods" you're talking about either.. If you go ahead with a swap you're going to be running a turbo motor in a car not designed for that power. Suspension, brakes, trim, etc are not going to be up to the task.. Are you talking about upgrading suspension, etc? Because you'll want to do that if you don't want your car to handle like a three bedroom house when you get on boost.

There must be some way around this - I got a JDM manual EZ30 Legacy in at the auction house the other day direct from Japan. They do exist, so there must be a manual TCU out there that can handle the EZ30.

Would help to know what kind of car you have, and what gaskets you replaced before we start giving you any advice.

It's probably not going to hurt it for a short period of time, but I'd get it in there ASAP if I were you. If they weren't neccesary they wouldn't be there in the first place - probably due to without it the joint can move on the spline and damage the stubs, and I've heard they can be a real PITA to replace.