rxleone

That's a shame mate, guess you gotta be able to pay to play unfortunately. Better luck next time.

Thanks mate, that is exactly what I'm looking for. Cheers!

That is one killer Legacy! I'm looking to do this with my 89 Legacy sedan, what problems did you run into with the Outback struts if any? I know the wagon rear springs are different from the sedan ones, did you have any difficulty getting them to fit? Did you need to use anything else from the outback to get the wheels centered in the wheel wells, etc? With that lift you did, did you drop everything 4"? Like the engine crossmembers, trans crossmembers, diff, etc? What angle are those front strut spacers cut at? Any alignment issues? Have to do any fender bashing? What does it ride like? Loving the safari look, one tough Lego!

I remember when I used to work in a parts store in NZ we had this problem come back from a shop under warranty. The hydraulic tensioner ended up failing, seized and shredded the belt on a late-90's DOHC engine, and the workshop brought the tensioner back to claim the repairs to the engine under warranty. The whole timing assembly was sent away for analysis and it was determined that the engine failed due to the backing plate being set incorrectly, therefore putting the fault on the workshop. Was a nightmare of a position to be in, the middle man between two companies blaming each other, but Gates ended up on top. That's the only time I've heard of it though. Hope it helps.

Looking to do this to my car at some point, but just wondering what it looks like? Can see a few wagons with outback suspension on here, but not so many sedans. Can anyone help?

New FB engine has separate water jackets for the head and block I hear

Also pays to be careful around any electronics, and spark plug holes in particular. Even with the boots on water can seep into the holes and cause a misfire under load if not wiped/blown out.

Kudos for using the search function, but you might be better off starting a new thread instead. This thread is six years old.

You're dead right, its listed in the link you posted above. You need two wires, the constant/accessory wire (red/green) supplies power at all times so your radio can remember settings, saved radio stations, etc, and is pretty much the power for the radio. The switched 12v (blue/yellow) basically just tells the radio when to turn on/off.

The wire probably switches colour where it joins the ignition switch. There is a fuse in the board inside the car, 15A IIRC. Should be 3rd along from the top from the left, but I'm used to working on JDM cars so this may differ for you. You can wire it direct from battery, but it defeats the purpose of having a switched power source, and it's not really a good idea to have your radio on while cranking. Is the accessory/"always on" power putting out 12V?

Cool idea, shame I'm on the other side of the planet! Otherwise the old Lego would get a good old workout!

They're not designed for this, but I have heard of people running their EA82s in RWD for extended periods of time. Just don't use the handbrake as a linelock and start doing crazy burnouts...

Nice way to bring it in. I hear the turbo model is only going to come with CVT though? That's a bit sad...

What way are you getting your numbers? 50MPG is Prius territory. I don't think I've ever heard of an EA82 getting that.

Wouldn't bother. Put an EJ22 in it. Would cost the same or less than a rebuild, be the same or less work, and you get better economy, reliability and power out of it.

So what he's getting at is he has an EA82-style coupe with an EA71 in it. I'm not sure if the US market got these. In NZ we got a DL Leone wagon with an EA71 in it, with the dual headlight setup.

Thought I'd update this as I never actually fixed the problem. Ended up selling the car to a guy down south, who was an apprentice mechanic. He text me about halfway through his trip saying the car was overheating. Poor guy ended up nursing it home, and haven't heard from him since. Last EA82T I ever buy!

Sounds good. I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. If it's anything like your offroad work this thing will be sick!

Put a new radiator in the Legacy the other day after the other one split a side tank....

If parts are not cheap in your country I wouldn't even bother upgrading your EA82T. It's not a good platform for building on, and it will grenade if you try to push it too hard. I'd save my money for an EJ20G - over 200HP completely stock, reliably and relatively economically. EA82T is just not an ideal platform to use.

Once is more then enough! That's what I do these days too, either that or put the hub nut on backwards and use the block of wood method. Can be pretty tough if they're rusted to the hub though.

Here in NZ up until recently buying CVs and DOJs and replacing them while keeping the original axle was pretty much the only affordable way to change them. It's pretty easy to do once you've done one or two. Just don't make the mistake I did when I had my first EA82 and try to bash the axle out of the spindle without putting a block of wood between the hammer and the axle. Chasing threads is not a lot of fun :-p

I wouldn't bother swapping all that gear without dropping the EA82T and replacing it with an early EJ20D or EJ22. Even an early RS turbo EJ20 could be done. Seems like a lot of work for not really much gain. What are your plans? What are you trying to achieve? Is the body of your original car rusted out or are you going for speed?

Nice one, I've also got a turbo Legacy, although its an EJ20 which I think is a little more powerful then the 22? Nice looking ride you've got there, loving the wheels!

Found a pretty new looking radiator at the local Pick a Part and slapped that in. Took me about 30 minutes all up including draining and refilling. Pretty chuffed with how it goes! I'm just going to save up for a decent alloy radiator and buy that down the line