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Everything posted by rxleone
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First gen pre facelift EJ22 legacy sedan. Does anyone know how to get rid of the air pockets in the heater core? I've done the burp thing several times to no avail. Gurgling sound occurs under acceleration (while coolant is getting pushed around I suppose) and while it's not a major, I'd like to get rid of it if I can.
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Hi all, I have a 89' Legacy sedan, EJ22. My passengers door lock solenoid is shot, as far as I can tell. I have power to the solenoid but it does not work when I unlock the drivers door. I need to replace it, so I went to the junkyard to have a look and see what I could get. I managed to get one out, but it seems like it's attached to the door lock itself, and doesn't come apart. Has anyone had any luck changing these out, and do you have any pointers or documentation on how to do this correctly? I don't want to half-rump roast it and have to fix it again in the near future.
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I've had this problem on my 89 sedan Legacy, gauge would be erratic on long trips. Pulled right hand (US passenger side) sender and tested continuity with a multimeter. Several dead spots. Went to the junkyard armed with the multimeter, pulled sender units until I found one that went the whole range with no breaks. Installed in my car, no problems in two years.
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Ea82 transmission with ej20 front casing.
rxleone replied to yobhgareb's topic in Subaru Retrofitting
Check out the EA 2 EJ swap - it's a stickied thread at the top of this forum. I don't think you can swap bellhousings, but you can buy or make an adaptor plate to go between the EA transmission and the EJ engine. -
I still don't understand why the US doesn't have these as standard - we have a huge amount of Subaru diesels rolling around on NZ roads. The sedan model gets something ridiculous like 6.7l/100km (35mpg) on average.. I haven't heard of any reliability issues with the EE20 either - which is always a good sign. I work as the stock controller at a car auction house so I see them and drive them quite regularly. They feel like they have a remarkable amount of torque for a two litre turbo diesel.
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I think it has something to do with the 90 - 91 IAC being a two-wire affair while the facelift 92 - 93 model was a 3-wire. I believe you may have to swap the ECU for it to work with the later style IAC but I've been reading about the later style injectors and may have them confused if someone could clarify. Might also want to try swapping out your coolant temp sensor (CTS) - these have a pretty big impact on both cold and hot idling as they control the amount of fuel used at idle. They're relatively cheap so it's not a bad idea to replace them as just a maintenance item.
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Are you running an EA82T on 20PSI? Dude...you are either very brave or completely insane...or both?
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Studio tech here - they'll work, but not to their full potential. Chances are, the 300w label you have on the speakers is peak power, while the 80w probably refers to RMS power (or average power if you like). The speakers are probably 40 to 60w RMS. Put them in, see if they sound alright - if they're good enough for you then stick with em. If not, upgrade your head unit.
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It's gone up again as well, to $2.15/l. Fluctuates pretty badly over here in NZ. I hear fuel is even more expensive in the UK then ours. Yeah, I noticed that our insurance seems a lot cheaper. That said, my $12 a month is 3rd party, so it only covers repairs to cars I hit, and not to my own. But that's irrelevant, considering my Legacy is only worth about $1250 NZD - any damage to it would probably write it off. What are high mileage diesels? We pretty much only have one grade of diesel, and it's not really taxed - however, any diesel vehicle pays road user charges, or RUCs, which are about $35 or so per 1000km travelled for a standard SUV/car.
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Here in NZ fuels costing me $2.11/l - which works out to be $6.27USD/gal. Costs me about $50NZD a week - I do about 200km/week. I hope you guys over in the states don't think your $3.99/gal fuel is expensive!!! I pay about $12/mo for 3rd party insurance on my 89 Legacy 2.2. Rego $78 every three months. WOF (Warrant of Fitness, safety testing basically, no emissions) $40 every 6 months Comes out to $3136NZD or $2466USD a year, give or take a few hundred for maintenance and extra gas for trips. Not bad really.
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I've recently gotten my hands of a set of five spoke WRX mags with 215/45R17 rubber and put them on my first gen 90 EJ22 Legacy sedan. The back ones rub on the strut towers right under the spring, have burnt a flat spot on the tyre wall and taken the paint off the strut tower. Has anyone had this problem before, and what did you do to solve it? I've taken them off now as I figure it's probably not the best situation to have smoke pouring out of your wheel wells at 35MPH down the street. It's only a couple of MM difference but I'd rather be safe, but would like to get them on at some stage, as they just look so good!
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Hi guys, looking at buying a stolen/recovered 1997 Subaru Forester S/TB (JDM spec, EJ20G turbo) 5MT for cheap. Car is in relatively good condition, but the thieves destroyed the ignition barrel in order to steal the car. I've attached a photo of the damage. My questions are: Can I use a key barrel from a Legacy/Impreza? Foresters are scarce in the junkyards here, but there's plenty of Legos and Imps. Is this a big job to replace the barrel? It looks straightforward enough, but I'm concerned there may be something I'm missing.