rxleone

Of course, pressure. Brains not working today. The junkyards here don't do refunds or even exchanges if you get the wrong part here, so I'm wondering if I can't find a 90 - 93 Legacy radiator would a second generation Legacy rad fit?

Have a look at the front side of your radiator, right where the top hose comes out. There may be a hairline crack down there that air may be seeping in creating the gurgling sound when you stop. You'll also see bubbles in the radiator. This just happened to me today, for the second time, so check that before you dig in too much. The fact that its leaking right where that crack would be would point me to that.

Yep, I'd go for a decent tuneup, plugs, PCV valve, leads, all filters, fluids, etc. See if that works. If not, I'd be looking towards the CTS for the hard starting issue, as they can make the computer think it's warm when its not if malfunctioning and not deliver enough fuel to start it.

Sweet, good to hear that it isn't just me! It's going to be a couple of days until I can get to the junkyard. Is it okay to put something like a piece of duct tape over the split just to get around until I can change it out? Also, is there much difference between the EJ radiators? eg. EJ18, EJ20, EJ22, auto/manual, etc..

So my radiator in my 89 Legacy EJ22 5MT decided to split a side tank recently, and quite badly, as it nearly ran out of water and came close to overheating today. Don't think I've done any serious engine damage, but this is the second radiator I've had in the car that's split the side tank right where the hot water from the engine comes out. Is this a common occurance? I've never seen anything about it on the USMB or from anyone I know. Is it worth my while to spring for an alloy radiator, or should I just go with a junkyard special?

My old 89' Legacy GT wagons bumper is looking pretty sad. PO must have pranged it a little right on the corner and rippled the plastic on the bumper just below the corner light. Seems like they've put filler on it and sprayed it, but whilst swapping the fender some of it has cracked and come off. Seems the filler that's been used is just regular body filler and doesn't like a small amount of flex. Is there any proper filler made for being applied to flexible plastic?

There's piles of them kicking around in Auckland, in the Pick-A-Part yards. I've even seen a couple in the one here in Christchurch, although they may have been push-button 4WD D/Rs.

You'll probably find better help over on LegacyCentral, the stateside guys didn't get the turbo EJ20s till the early 2000s I believe. Can't really help you on your issue except I'd probably change the trans fluid and diff oil and see if that makes any difference. Good to see another Kiwi on here too, give me a bell if you're down Christchurch way anytime soon!

Amazing work. Very impressed with the result! Looks pretty much factory in there.

Very nice! Can I ask what kind of stuff you used to make the mould of the trunk, and also what kind of filler you used for the box? Wouldn't mind trying this myself at some stage.

Nice one! Could be a while before I get an 08 Legacy but still very handy info to know. Thanks for sharing!

Not loving that weird little snub nose on it, needs to be more aggressive. What happened to straight lines? Everything seems to need curves these days. What a shame...

I had a 77 Civic, EB2, 1200cc of raw fury! Haha. All things aside the best non-Subaru car I've ever owned. That motor was bulletproof!

Sounds like a good score to me! I'd probably change all fluids & filters, make sure tyre pressures are good, etc. All the basic stuff. If you don't have any history on when the timing belts were last changed, I'd probably put that on your list. Good luck! EDIT: Just actually read your post properly. D'oh. Forget the timing belts I'd probably get pretty crazy about rust proofing too. If it has next-to-no rust then you're lucky, but it won't stay like that forever!

Haven't really got any info to help with, but holy hell, 382,000 miles? Looked it up and thats 614,000km! My Legacy is just a baby with 273,000km (169,000mi)

Holy hell, that is some serious rust right there brother!

Yeah there is a couple of SPFI Ej18s at the pick a part here in chch. PM me for more info if you like.

Replaced the drivers side (thats passenger side for you Stateside folks) rocker cover gasket on the 89' GT. Boy that thing is fun to drive!

Or a split side tank in the radiator. Don't know about that late a model, but the older BC/BF Legacies have plastic side tanks that tend to split where the hot water comes out of the hose on the engine outlet. Just about pulled down an EJ22 once because of bubbles in the coolant once, lucky I saw the big crack in the rad. Probably not your problem, but yeah, I'd inspect it as you pull it out to do HGs.

Sorry guys, my searching found how to do it right after I posted heres a link to the site with some info - Mods feel free to delete this post, might be some interesting info for you stateside guys?

Hi guys, this problem may not be something you guys have in the states, but hopefully someone might know. I've recently acquired a 1989 Subaru Legacy GT wagon (EJ20 turbo, 4EAT) for the girlfriend, and it has this crazy door lock that I used to have on my old 89' VZ (EJ20) JDM Legacy. Anyways, it goes like this; its a four code door unlock sequence, that is, you pull the door so many times, hear a beep, pull the door so many times, hear a beep....you do this four times (each number of door pulls represents a number, eg. four door pulls equals four) and if you get the code right, it'll unlock the doors. So say your code is 4-2-1-2, you pull the door handle four times, beep, two times, beep, one time, beep, two times, beep beep beep and the doors unlock. Basically a keyless entry system before remotes came along. Very handy if you lock your keys in your car. Anyways, there is a way to program this, as I got it programmed from a guy who used to own a Subaru workshop in a town about 200mi away (my old code was the one above). I can't find the guys number or get a hold of him, so does anyone on here know how to reprogram it? I remember something about having the ignition on and doing the pulls in a certain way, but its a bit hazy. Sorry about the wall of text, if anyone could help it'd be awesome!

The only real important measurement is the oil seal and the thread. I've noticed filter dimensions seem to differ slightly between brands, so I'd check that first. Can you get us a photo?

Not yet, been away for a few days and haven't had a chance to pick a new one up. Did, however, take it for a drive last week, runs fine and doesn't seem to run hot (according to the gauge, after about 15 minutes for 60mph driving temp gauge sits at around the one quarter mark) so it's still working. Going away again this week so probably won't get anything done for a wee while, but will definitely keep you posted.

I think this may have something to do with the problem... Then again, looking over at the filter, there is some wiring with two wires coming off it. Looks like earths or something, but could be to do with the old air-suspension setup (which has been replaced with conventional springs).

No luck so far. Going to try get a new thermo switch and try that one for size - think it's got something to do with that.