rxleone

Very cool looking wheels!

That thing is awesome!

Great looking Brat! Love the colour!

Beautiufl looking Brat, we need more photos!!!

Thanks for that. In regards to the sealant for the oil pump, I've heard people say you should use anaerobic sealant, Threebond, etc, but I've also heard people say you can use Permatex Ultra Grey. I've looked that stuff up and it looks like it is RTV, which I've heard is a serious no-go on the oil pump. Can anyone clarify this for me?

Good to know. Those old screw types are a PITA. Will have to put this on my to-do list.

1989 Legacy, EJ22, 5 speed manual. 278,000km (172,000mi). I believe I've got a leaking front crank seal on my motor. I've done timing belts and stuff before, but I've never had the crank gear or oil pump off. Do I need a gear puller for the crankshaft sprocket and crankshaft position sensor? Also with the oil pump, should I reseal this? I've heard a bit about an o-ring and tightening the screws on the back of the pump, is there much involved with this or is it a fairly basic procedure?

Not sure if you guys in the sates got them, but what about seats from a 90s Impreza 2dr Coupe? Surely they'd have the flip forward seats, and would probably bolt in.

You probably won't get much help on this site, owing to the fact the guys in the US never got the twin turbo Legacies. May want to try LegacyCentral, or even a New Zealand forum, mainly for first gen Legacies, but there's a few with with your style on too, Dirty Ol' BC. I'm not too sure which solenoid you're talking about either. Is it the one that switches the turbos? My brother in law had problems with his under boost, which was fixed when he removed the aftermarket BOV the PO had installed, and re-installed the original plumb-back valve.

Time to pull the motor methinks. If they're so seized that one has already snapped it sounds like it has been overheated to the point of no return. Pull the motor, inspect for signs of damage, repair if possible. To me it sounds like its done its dash.

I've never really had a problem changing plugs on a DOHC motor, maybe because my hands aren't too big. Doesn't bother me changing them every 30,000km or so, that's only about once every two years anyway.

Wow, your cars really rust out something fierce in the USA. I thought NZ was bad being pretty much an island, but I've never seen an Imp with bad rust like that. Hell, my 89 Legacy doesn't even have any rust in it. Good luck with it. Sucks about the jerk who hit you, what an rump roast.

Thanks for that. Learn something new every day.

Going to change the spark plugs in the girlfriends 90' Legacy GT (4EAT, EJ20 turbo). I know you stateside guys didn't get this motor, but I did some checking at the parts store and they say the motor takes NGK BKR6EIX Iridiums, which are about five times more expensive per plug then standard V-Powers. I was going to use just the standard V-Powers. I take it you just drop the IX at the end of the part number to become BKR6E. Are regular NGK plugs okay to use? I figure the iridiums are just a bit of a marketing ploy or last a bit longer to save changing them too often in a DOHC motor, but I'm not fussed about changing them more often. Are the standard plugs just as good to use?

Looks like you'd require a new distributor cap and leads every time you ran it. Cool idea, but why wouldn't you route the turbo to the standard place?

Got it sorted. As most of you said, it was just the starter. Got another one from the junkyard, put it in (only took about five minutes from start to finish) and turn key, away she goes. Cheers for your help guys. I've still got the old one so I'm going to pull it apart and check out the contacts. I'll post pictures when i do.

Photos aren't working for me.

I dont't actually have the file on my computer anymore. If someone else still has it and would upload it that could help.

Attached the lead to an engine ground. It is possible I tested wrong, as it was dark when I tested it and I had the girlfriend turning the key. I guess its possible she got the on and the start positions back to front as I was testing too. I'll try again today after work and see how I get on. I'll probably grab a starter from the junkyard just in case anyway, they're cheap enough.

I put my test light on the starter solenoid last night (need to buy a multimeter) and I get power on the cable direct from the battery, and power in the small wire on the "on" position, which appears to go off when turned to the "start position" momentarily. Does this sound like a wiring problem, or does the starter crank when that wire is turned off?

Terminals look fine, I haven't taken them off yet but I will tonight and give them a tidy up just in case. Haven't tried to jump the starter, but I'll try that as well. How does the procedure go for that? I don't think I can roll start it as its an automatic. I figured it'll be something basic like a relay or something simple like that.

Friends 96 Legacy Grandwagon (EJ25, 4EAT) is just not turning over. Owner took the dog for a walk, and came back to the car and it just will not start. Has enough juice (jumped it just to make sure), headlights work, radio, all lights, etc, but it just clicks when you try to crank it. Don't think its the inhibitor switch, tried jiggling it and putting it in both park and neutral. Fuses and the fusible link in the engine bay look okay, although I haven't check any fuses inside the car. Not sure if any have anything to do with the starter. Gave the starter a bit of a bash in case it was stuck, but to no avail. Anyone have any ideas? This ones got me pretty stuck.

I actually had one of these on an RX sedan I had a couple years back. Would have kept it if I knew it was rare. Damn.

Nice score! I'll have to keep an eye out for it when I'm cruising around. By the way, there's an 83' EA71 (i think) sedan at the Pickapart out on Halswell Junction Road if you need any parts.