backcountrycrui

Oh:lol: That makes your comments make a lot more sense:eek:

Well this mouse nest has proven to be a larger problem than I could clean easily. Ya I know, what was I thinking. So Im going to clean out one side of the garage and lay into it. The PO removed most of the AC components. Inside all that is left is the black box (Condenser or evaporator, I cant remember) between the heater fan and the heater core. What briges that gap in a non Ac car? Because I think I will remove the black box. Any way wish me luck:rolleyes: Mike Oh yeah and i figure I might as well replace the heater core too, while Im in there? Any other Preventive Maint. sugestions?

Yup, 5 inches tall. I have assorted shackles so the holes for them could be any size that you think would be good/strong. Do you weld or bolt the brackets to the frame? Thanks Mike

Hi Scott, From the pic those look like they would be great mounts. Way better than what I had in mind. If I decide to go with 8th inch thick 3x5 rectangle tube could you make a set to fit that? What is the cost and shipping to 98323? Thanks Mike

ANY ideas?

I'm thinking about bumpers:confused:. I dont have a tube bender, but I have access to a portable band saw. So instead of bending arount the front and back corners I think I will cut and weld the corners. Im torn between round tube and rectangular(?) tube. What diameter have most been running with round tube? And what gauge/thickness? Any ideas about rectangle tube? I would like to place a reciever and shackles on both the front and back. The recievers would be to mount a portable winch. 3000lbs single line pull plus a snatch block when needed. Thanks Mike

Axles look ok for now:rolleyes: Do you know how much lift the struts actually give me?

So this new '86 wagon I got has the struts that you can adjust ride height with. Both front and rear. I was at Turbone's place today doing the timing (thanks again rob) and he was mentioning that I should lower them down a little to save the axles. I have a home made 2 inch lift ready in the garage, is it safe to use it with these struts. Should I lower the adjustments all the way down or can I keep them someplace in the middle and add the two inch block lift? Or should I forget about the block lift and just keep the strut adjustment cranked up? I guess it all depends on the ride height as it is currently. I think it is higher now than my '90 loyale(non adjustable). I would say by an inch give or take. Thanks Mike:-\

Ya, I never repaired any of our cars prior to re-registering them. And none of the damage caused any safety hazards. The one car that had decent damage I repaired it after the re-register inspection, there for no need to prove parts.

Im here in Western Washington and my experience has been good. I had one vehicle with more damage than your wagon. While still perfectly driveable, the state required a state patrol inspection to show that all safety apliances still worked (brake lights, turn signals ect). I surendered the title to the state so they could get me a new one that showed it was totaled. WHen I got the title there was no "mark" on it. IE the title was clean with no mention of the damage. (Which was not repaired). Second car had less damage than yours, state said no inspection was needed no need to send in title ect. So even though the insurance company totaled out the car the state didnt want to "total out the title" All in all pretty easy process. Hope it helps MIke

I use mine any time there is a chance that my tires will spin. And if it looks like the tires will be travelling over dry then wet or muddy or ice or snow multiple times then I just leave it engaged. I have gone over white pass between Packwood and Yakima MANY time with the 4wd engage the whole way. About 100 miles each way. And that car was finaly sold with 275k and NEVER a problem. Just my thoughts Mike

I second the welder. I picked up a used (barely) harbor freight wire feed welder for $100.00. I wouldnt trust my welding for anything structural(?) I happen to have a bunk bed frame and intend to use it as a rack just like another guy here. I scored some 1x1 square tubing from the local Deere dealer and will use it to make the sides of the rack. The two inch home built suspension blocks are great and easy. Plus you can put 27 to 28 inch tires under it then. I got the scrap for that project for free. I wired up some additional back up lights on top of the rear bumper that turned out great. $10.00 for those new. Made a suprising difference. I picked up a set of Toyota Tacoma wheels and redrilled them to fit the sub bolt pattern. $50.00. As soon as I find a decent deal on tires Ill mount them up. Had a CB in the garage from years ago, put it in the sub for when we wander around the woods. Free. I think I will buy some of the limo tint for the back windows. Not real dark just to make it harder to see inside the back of the car. And the list goes on and on. Mike:)

Well it covers off for me. This wagon that I just picked up is now running and I dont think I will bother putting the covers on ever again. I will post some pics as soon as I can. Ill be taking it down to Rob in Bonney Lake on Wed. He's letting me borrow his timming light. Damn those things are expensive. Thanks for all the responses Mike

That would be great rob. I didnt realize how expensive timing lights were. I went out and started it again tonight, couple of pumps on the gas and it fired right up into a high idle.YAY. Gave it a couple minutes and kicked it down. Not bad at all. I have to go to bonney lake to transfer the title and gets tabs this week. Is there a day that would work well for you? Thanks rob Mike

ALLRIGHT!!!! Thanks for everyones help. I got my new 86 GL started today. Turns out the idiots installed the timing belts wrong and the distributer. I still dont have it perfect, but it is driveable. I need to get a timing light to see if I can get it timed to spec. I might be a tooth off on the Dist. I rattles and pings pretty well under heavy throttle. ALL IN ALL IM PLEASED AS HELL:banana:. The headlights stopped working some place along the test drive, seems to be in the switch. Turn signals are a little picky but work. I noticed a clicking noise from under the hood. It is comming out of a solenoid on the pass. side fender. Looks like it had a vacume hose on it at one time. It is next to a little black box that says BOOST on it(HMMMM). The ECU light came on every once in a while, I will research what to do with it. The only real problem I can see now is the mouse nest in the heater:eek:. Any tips or tricks to getting it out as well as the smell? Anywho, thanks alot guys. Mike

I already corrected the previous owners timing belt wrongdoing. But it still wont start. This is a new thread for the dist. The other thread I started was just before I purchased the car and regarding the likely hood that the timing belts were installed incorrectly. Thanks Mike

On this 86 gl, carb 5spd dr I bought, how do I tell if the dist. is 180 deg out? Thanks Mike

Could you guys look at my other post regarding my dilema. Its in the older generation under "carb ea82 rebuilt and wont start" Thanks Mike

Guys, I got everything buttoned up and it still is acting like it is out of time. I tried moving the dist. both clockwise and counterclockwise. It doesnt seem to make a difference. Im getting backfires out of the carb. Is it possible that the cam sproket is installed wrong? Or the distributer? It turns over a little hard, but is making decent oil pressure. The heads are supposed to be remaned units purchased when the did the rebuild. Any more Ideas? Thanks Mike

OK thanks guys. Ive got the belts all installed correctly now. All I have to do is get the six year old gas out of the tank and refill it. And naturally it is FULL. The gas doesnt smell bad, but I figure it would be best to change it out. I will have to get a super syphon at the parts store this evening. Ill let you know how it goes. Thanks Mike

Guys, Ive been reading through posts all morning about using or not using the timing belt covers on my new ea82. The only problem is that I couldnt find much about the guys that run off road. I wont be doing much in the way of mud bogging or creek crossing, but alot of dirt roads and mild off road. SO WHAT SAY YOU about using them for DD / Dirt road runners ? I dont like the covers, thats for sure. Love being able to change the belts in less than 20 mins. Thanks Mike

OK well I bought it from the guy. He delivered the wagon this afternoon. I will take some pics in the morning. Im going check the belts in the moring. I will let you know.

I have a 1990 loyale 4x4 with the 3at. Shortly after I purchased it the 4wd stopped working. The solenoid on mine seems to have stopped working. That solenoid apparently lets the tranny fluid pass into the rear of the tranny where the 4wd clutch pack is. The solenoid seems to be imposible to find. Im told that the kick down solenoid can be used with some mods to it. It is also possible that the clutch pack is bad. At any rate, it is a shame. The more I drive my car the better the 3at starts to work. Im currently looking at a 86 gl to replace my 90, or use it to do a dr 5spd swap. Good luck Mike

OK, thanks guys. Seeing as the rebuild is almost 6 years old, do you think that the engine will still be ok when I get it runing? Or do you think that is will be shot. 6 years without a drop of oil run through it. Do you think that is would be froze up? Thanks Mike

So Im looking at this 1986 wagon. 120k and in really nice shape. 6 years ago current owner purchased it with a bad Head Gasket. He decided to rebuild the motor. He used the original pistons, rods and crank. He honed the cylinders, re-ringed the pistons, new bearings and seals at all points. Remaned heads, ect. He rebuilt the old carb too. So when he tried to start it it seemed like only one half of the engine was fireing. He thinks that there is something wrong with the heads or valves. Does that make sense? I havent had a chance to turn it over, if it will. Is it possible that he didnt line up the timing marks when he installed the belts? Im think about it as a parts car but it is very nice and I would like to get it runing. It has been SIX years without running. If I buy it I guess it would be good to get the oil pressure up and serculating before it actualy starts:-\ . Any way, any ideas? Thanks guys Mike