backcountrycrui

I just tested out my new Hella 500FF driving lights. I mounted them on the bumper of the GL. Considering that my headlights dont put out the correct amount of light ( I need to rewire them), these 500FF's are amazing. I have to tweek the alignment a little, but other than that they are great. I wired them up to the high beam position. I think I will mount a set up high on the roof rack too. Up here in Carbonado the roads are bad and the dropoffs can be steep. For the 60 or so dollars that they retail for, I would say they are the best for the price. I might try some night picks to post later. Mike

In my limited experience with bed liner, the hurculiner roll on product is decent, if you prep well. But that is just like any thing else, prep will make or break you. Three beds done 7, 5, and 2 years ago, still in good shape. They did fade a bit though. The other product that I used, I cant remeber the name. I purchase it at westco auto body supply near my place. It is a little more expensive but comes with a spray gun and works perfectly. Ive used it on the outside of trucks, on wooden beds(which are way worse to spray and have last, due to the expansion and contraction of the wood), inside cabs too. I will try to find out what the product was called. It is great stuff. Mike

Thanks rob, but I only work at the parts store once a month or so now. Just enough to keep my discount. Im back at the railroad, finally. I have to go to the Tacoma yard on tuesday ( tomorow) to do some radio control train stuff. Maybe I could give you a call when I am done? Should be sometime between two and five pm. I would apreciate it, and you could see my new hella's. I have the lights mounted just not wired yet. Mike I dont think that there is a great deal of difference from 86 to 87, so a scan would be PERFECT if you have time. Thank you Mike

So, 86 gl wagon, passenger side of the engine. Near the egr valve. There is a vacume line with a "T" in it, mine is closer to the passenger fender than the EGR but not by much. ON the underhood diagram it shows the hose, but it dosent say where it goes. Not in the chiltons either. Any guess? Thanks guys Mike

Ok I will try to swap them then. Should I see any real change in anything, driving or timing wise? Thanks mIke

I picked up my six lug conversion from MR. Brat:banana: Just have to finish the rear portion of the lift and then do some fender bashing. Mike

Ive got an 86 gl, dont recall reading anything about the filter in my manual. I purchased a filter from autozone after realy looking at mine and seeing a production date of the early 90's. MIke

On my 86 gl wagon I have a disty that has two vac advance lines going to it. As it sets now the vac advance closest to the dist. has a hose on it that doesnt seem to have vacume at idle. The vac advance that is further away from the disty has a hose that seems to have a lot of vacume all the time. A couple of questions, why do I have two vac advance units instead of the typical one unit distys I have seen? Is it normal to have one hose that doenst seem to suck and one that does? Are they in the correct position? And last, the ses light is on, says that it is the pulse system. Is this code related to vacume leaks? I found one vacume port with nothing on it up under the carb sucking the daylights out of the atmosphere. Thanks guys Mike

OK, how much cost would I be looking at? I do like the look of the six lug over the 4. Im not too woried about strength. For what we do, I dont think I would break either set up. Thanks MIke

I havent really researched it. It is a daily driver and I was worried about total project time and if I were to screw it up and be out of a car until I could afford a replacement part. Are the drums you have already drilled? Thanks mike

Any of you guys know of a shop in the puget sound area that can redrill some toyota wheels with the tires still on them. My back has been giving me fits, and I dont want to do it by hand. Thanks Mike

OK so all the vins match. I guess they just changed out the engine. It seems that the computer is plugged in to this engine, as it run rough and without any power when I first start it. When the cel comes on 90 seconds later it runs great and has good power. Sans a flat spot in the acceleration. The fuel pump lookes like it has been replaced, but the po did replace a lot of stuff. Guess I wont wory about it then. Thanks for all the help Mike

That is the plan. I ran out of time, for the day, with the father in laws welder. Then I ran out of patience:rolleyes: and painted it THEN I got ambitious and installed the damn thing:lol:. So now I have to removed it, sand the weld point clean and then install the rest of the tube. Sometimes my three year old has more patience than I do. Thanks Mike

Now that it is done, I think that I should have lowered the tall bent pieces on the front and back. As well as the 4 corners. They are like 7.25 inches from the weld point to the top of the bar. Something like 5 inches would be better for me I think. Thanks for the compliments.

I made a good effort to grind off most of the galvo. I heard that is is hard on you. I will be putting lights in the front and rear areas. So no tire there. However based on a previous post I made regarding the heft of a spare wheel and tire, I decided to put the bar in the middle a lot lower than originally planned. That space is about 31 inches. Wide enough to put any tire, that I would run, up on top. All else fails I will have my 6 year old do it. He is like the Incredible Hulk. Mike

So I sort of coppied another members idea of using a bunk bed frame for the base. Then I used galvo tube for the bent parts. I wanted to be able to mount 3 of the 2.5 gallon jerry cans, spare tire (when I get one) and lights front and back. Also I wanted it to be strong enough to carry a canoe. It is my first welding project and boy does it show. Over all I have about $7.00 into it including the spray paint. I will probably weld in a couple of pieces in the front and rear to strengthen the top bars. Other than that Im pleased with it. I got a lot of ideas from the members cars here. Here are the parts And here is the rack..

I built this rack for my gl. It is an old bunk bed frame (like other people have used) with galvo conduit for the bent tube pieces. Not bad considering I have about $7.00 into it. Including the spray paint. What do you think?

And if they dont match then what would be the problem? Thanks Mike

First off sorry for the long post. :-\So I used a couple of web pages to run the vin on my 86 gl. Vin is JF2AN53BXGE430049. On a couple of the pages it came up as a turbo GL. It is certainly not a turbo any longer. I was suprised to see that because, when I went to Rob's for a little help timing it, we noticed a small pressure switch on the passenger fenderwell. It was making an anoying clicking noise from time to time. On the switch it said something about "turbo pressure switch". We discused wether or not there was any badging that would indicate if it were once a turbo car, and there is none. All badging is the GL type, no GL 10 or TURBO. What is in it now is a brand new rebuilt ea82 carbed engine. I havent noticed anything remaining from a mpfi system. Given the fact that the PO who rebuilt the engine didnt know how to set the timing on a subaru, I dont think he would know what to do to swap in a carbed engine and computer. Im assuming that the computer for a feed back carb is different than a turbo's? Is there any other loose pieces left over that I should check for, or any problems to look out for. Thanks Mike

Did search, found answers, had more questions. Im not asking for a discussion, just elaboration. Just like subarutex and others have already put in hear, opinions about their experiences. So thanks for answering my request. Again great thread. Mike

I am considering one of these options in my GL> Can someone talk more about the snow and ice driving with the welded rear end. Specificaly in a commuting mindset? I have never driven a vehicle, locked up, on the road at all, so this is a great thread. Mike

Thats funny. I have a 1990 loyale on CL and the 4wd doesnt work on it either. For what is is worth, in my research here, the manual tranny push button 4wd seems to be quite mechanically sound. It is vacume engaged. I had an 89 loyale that went 275k without any problems worth mentioning. It was a manual tranny with the push button 4wd. The one I have for sale currently, is a 3 speed automatic. And for nearly 6 months I have been looking for the part to repair the 4wd. Rob in Bonney Lake was able to get me a part number and I have a line on the part. The 3spds auto's 4wd system is engaged electro magnetic solenoid, and occasionaly prone to failure. Otherwise, look for signs of overheating, or signs of a well maintained cooling system. The head gaskets are really the only thing I would be conserned about. Everything else is very easy to work on and they are easy to find parts for...usually. Hope it helps Mike sorry about the spelling, Im in a hurry, Fringe is on. :lol:

My 90 loyale had the kind of the same problem for the previouse owner. They wired in a start button, and it works every time. The key however only works one in ten. Just a little click and no turn over. Im not sure what went wrong with it but the button works. Mike

All of the single range ones that I have had drove pretty much like normal. No pulling to one side, no real bogging down. Generally they disengaged smoothly, unless the drivetrain was bound up, then they would disengage kind of rough. Maybe check all the tires, air and tread. If you really want to see if it is a tire issue, try rotating them. Often times if it is tires, the problem will move with the tire. IE it will pull all the time on the front. Also check for obstructions causing the rear drivetrain to bind. Bailing wire, blackberrie canes (yes I had that one) etc. Hope it helps Mike

No, I forgot there wsa a dealer in auburn. Thanks Mike