backcountrycrui

My 90 loyale had the kind of the same problem for the previouse owner. They wired in a start button, and it works every time. The key however only works one in ten. Just a little click and no turn over. Im not sure what went wrong with it but the button works. Mike

All of the single range ones that I have had drove pretty much like normal. No pulling to one side, no real bogging down. Generally they disengaged smoothly, unless the drivetrain was bound up, then they would disengage kind of rough. Maybe check all the tires, air and tread. If you really want to see if it is a tire issue, try rotating them. Often times if it is tires, the problem will move with the tire. IE it will pull all the time on the front. Also check for obstructions causing the rear drivetrain to bind. Bailing wire, blackberrie canes (yes I had that one) etc. Hope it helps Mike

No, I forgot there wsa a dealer in auburn. Thanks Mike

Thanks Rob. Ive got a guy that wants to buy it, but he is giving me fits about not being able to find the part number. Any idea were I can get one? Thanks Mike

Is there a post for doing that around here. My factory headlights on the 86 are REALLY BAD:eek:. Mike

Does anyone have a part number for the 4wd solenoid on a 3at tranny. Or does anyone have a parts source that they know has one? Thanks MIke

What color is the fluid in the pump. If it is "clean" looking and red, then that is good. If it is brown, like mud and bubley(?) that is bad. If it is brown then you have a bad seal in the steering rack. The bad seal lets in nasties from the out side, and destroys the rack in short order. If the fluid is clean, then maybe the power steering pump. Ive heard of some steering racks having a valve that can fail and make it hard to turn in one direction or both. I dont know if you car has one. I replaced the rack in an old GL once, pretty easy. I replaced the rack in a 1998 explorer once too, and should have paid the 150.00 to have it done. It sucked. I havent done one on a legacy though. Hope it helps, Mike

On my car there is no check light on or anything. How do I check to see if it is in "limp mode" Thanks Mike

Is it a 3 spd auto. If so I have the same problem. Put it in drive and it starts from a dead stop in 3rd gear. It doesnt shift down into 2 or 1. But if I moved it manually it would shift. I cleaned the govenor(search for that) and replaced the vacume modulator(just below the govenor). After driving it a lot the tranny has gotten better. When it warms up it actually works pretty well. Until it warms up it still doesnt shift out of thrid when in drive. Im told you can take the oil pan off the tranny and clean it out as well as the screen filter. It is suposed to make a world of difference. Just run a search and you will find alot Mike

I would be too if they werent between 45 and 60 a piece. But mostly I didnt want to lift 5.5 gallons onto the top of the car. Mike

I found a guy on CL that has new 2.5 gallon metal jerry cans for sale. I got a case, 5 cans with spouts for 110.00, he said he normaly charges 125 for a case. Here is his link http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/pts/1551293994.html It is a great dimension for on top of your car. Non Carb compliant, thank god. Sorry Californians(?). I am very pleased with them. He said he has about 50 left. Seems like a good guy. And a price I am comfortable with. Mike

The people on this site are exceptional in regard to the capabilities and mods of a subaru. They are the BEST. As for overland type expedition my favorite page for that is http://www.expeditionportal.com. Between all the info on subarus, off road and on, that is on this site, and all the expeditionary knowledge on expeditionportal you should be set. Ive read post of quite a few people doing travels just like what you are planning on expeditionportal. You will be well served by both sites. Good luck on your travels when you undertake them and keep us posted. Mike

This prob. wont help you but I remember reading in a couple of non Oil pressure posts that during EJ swapps if you wanted to use the factory gauge then you had to connect a resistor to the oil pressure sending unit, because the ea82 guage and the ej sending unit spoke in slightly different ohms. But yes as I recall from those posts with the MECHANICAL guage then you do put it in the hole where the sendign unit was. It would prob. take a while to sift through the EJ posts to find the information to confirm my remembering. Hope this helps or at least helps you with what you need to look for, Mike

Thanks Jesse, I may take you up on your offer. Ive seen a few great deals on 235's on CL lately. How long would it take to do all four wheel wells? Im currently laid off so I guess I have the time:rolleyes: Thanks mike

Jeff, Do the 235's slow you down much more than say 215 75 15? Im not really good with a sawz all type tools. I think I would be better off using explosives. Talk about room for your tire:banana:. I think I remember a post about trimming. Ill have to search for it. I want to keep the wagon looking decent. Not sure I want to take a chance. Thanks Mike

That is the most perfect placement for a WTF sticker I have ever seen. When the tire fell through did your eyes naturally fall the that sticker. I mean that is an honest to god WTF moment. :lol: Thanks for that Bill Mike

Hey Jeff, Do you need any more of those factory roof cross bars. I have two. Mike

When I did something like this I used a c clamp to compress the piston a little farther than I felt like I needed to get the threads to catch. With the brake resevoir lid off, clamp down on the piston until you see the brake fluid squirting back into the master cylinder. That might make it easier to get everything started. But be careful not to overflow the master cylinder or damage the pistion. And GO SLOW! If you have room you can use the old pad as a place to clamp against, as apposed to using your c clamp directly against the piston. Hope it helps Mike

Any one have a guess as to how heavy a 27 inch to 30 inch tire is on steel 15 inch wheels. Just a rough estimate. For those that put their spare tires on a roof rack, do you find it hard to get the tire in and out of your rack? If you do or do not find it hard, can you tell me how high the sides of your rack are? Just doing some planning. Thanks Mike

Not that it really has anything to do with your "accident". The only time I have ever seen a water pump fall off was at work. Im a locomotive engineer for a class one railroad. I had an old GP locomotive in my consist. We I was pulling the westbound grade comming out of Leavenworth Washington. As I come around a corner (at like 25 mph OOOH:banana:) I get all kinds of alarms. So my conductor make his way back through the consist of locomotives. He gets to the last one, the old GP. It is shut down dead. He opens the engine hatch to see if he can get it started. The enine cranks over, but every time it turns he sees movement out of the corner of the engine bay. So he stops cranking, get his lantern and looks, Nothing. Cranks some more, sees the movement, stops, looks, nothing. So at this point he figures that we are going slow enough to use both his hands during this endevor. He hits the start button with the left hand and shines his lantern with the right. Holy crap batt man, there is a column of water hitting the roof when he tries to start it. So I bring the train to a stop and walk back. Uppon closer investigation there was no "Pump" between the water pipes. The engine compresion was enough to nearly evacuate the resevoir. See we picked up the locomotive in Wenatchy and I hadnt fired it up until just a few minutes early when we started up the mountain grade. Apparently the mechanic had signed off that some repairs to the engine were complete. But they forgot to install the collant circulation pump. The result, me and my conductor set on that siding for 12 hours waiting for a consist to come and bring us backwards down the mountain. Hope this wasnt too long, I just thought it was a good story to share here. Thanks Mike

Thanks miles, So if I get a fan belt for a non ac car then it will be right. No idler arm and pully needed? I figure the weight of the compressor might be enough to merrit removing it. Then I can replace the compressors weight with something that I will actually use, like an air compressor for the tires or something. Thanks Mike

Is that a hole in the metal end? If it is can you stick something small diameter in the hole and touch, say, a spring loaded switch. If I am making any sense? Take a nail and press lightly through the hole and see if there is a vacume switch in there. If so maybe you could start the car and press the switch using a nail. Then see if anything happens to the engine. You know ejector seat, engine self destructs yada yada yada. Hope you can figure it out though. Mike

So on the 86 gl wagon dr with ac, I was thinking about removing the compressor. Seeing as how everything else is already gone. Do the compressor make a decent idler or would I be saving horse power by removing it a putting on the regular idler arm and pully. The compressor doesnt seem to have much drag on it, so I was just wondering. Thanks Mike

Actually:rolleyes: I have a set of toyota wheels that I redrilled for my loyale. Ive been diligently searching for a used set of 205 something 15's to 215 something 15's. It is a shame that I cant fit 235's under a two inch lift, there are lots of those tire for decent prices. I have the 2 inch lift built, Im no machinest but I think they will work. Mike

That would be freeking cool. Mike