backcountrycrui

Never mind, they were "mistaken". It's 200 for just the timing belt service and an additional 575 for the pump and such. So $775. Good lord..

Well thanks guys. And just like that, I'm a Subaru owner again! The local dealer has a special going on now. for $450 they do the timing belts, tensioner, pump, t stat, coolant. I'm certain I could do it my self, but do you think its worth the price? They want $1200 to complete the 120k service.......I will be doing that myself, sheesh.

It's been a long time since I have been on usmb. I have been looking at a few cars for commuting and last night my mother in law offered me her Subaru. She wants $5000, and around here that is a steal. I used to be fluent in ea82, but not in the new stuff. The car is a perfect 2007 with 90000 miles. It has all the normal options plus heated seats and mirrors. A huge sunroof. Neoprene seat covers from day one. Tell me about it. Are they easy to work on. How is the auto tranny in them. Can I expect at least 25 mpg on a all highway commute? They have taken good care of it but I'm sure there are maintenance things to catch up on. What should I plan on replacing? It's really a nice car but I'm primarily looking for a cheap fuel sipping commuter. Thanks guys.

I get nearly 5 mpg less in my wagon in the winter, when the state puts ethanol in. In our suburban we loose about 8mpg. Mike

Just to let everyone know, we have 14 to 16 inches of snow in Carbonado. So if you are heading out to play there might be TOO much snow at Evans Creek. I you go out, take care......and pictures:lol: Mike

Thanks GD. Will do.. Has anyone had any luck with the muffler / exhaust pipe "Tape" repair. The kind that use a hardening compound? Or do I need to replace the y pipe? Mike

Guys, 86 gl ea82 with a brand new weber conversion. All installed running pretty darn good. Still fine tunning it. I have a very small off idle stumble. The secondaries seem really loud, and not really impressive. Almost a bogging down sound. Mileage seems to be between 20 and 25, I dont have many tanks through it yet. No vac leaks to speak off. And the real problem that I have.... it stinks bad. So did the old carb though. It seems as though the smell is worst in the cab, followed by the engine compartment. There seems to be a pretty decent exhaust leak right near the cat. The tail pipe area doesnt seem to really smell at all. It is a rich smell. And its making me sick. I havent checked to float yet. What could this combination mean? It runs SOOOOO much better now, it just smells. Thanks Mike

Yes Washington is OK but I agree Idaho is WAY better. Better law, better rules, better economy in manny regards. Cheaper, better for business and it has all but the ocean within its state lines. If Idaho is a choice for you, I feel it is a better state. Again, take care Mike

HI, Ive lived in WA for most of my life. Just some thoughts on Washington. Washington State as a whole is a great place to live by many accounts. Scenery to die for. Easy weather, Ocean, inland sea, rainforests, multiple mountain ranges, high and low desert and every type of weather is within easy drive in WA.. No more that 3 to 4 hours to get to any of these atractions. Lots of outside stuff and lots of inside stuff to do. Better jobs than many locations. Decent laws for the most part. Good personal freedoms, well thought out regulations by and large, with the exception of a couple of counties. Crime is low ish. The state has a spending/taxing habit alot like California's, and we will have the same monumental problems as calli here in a few years. The state has four major population areas. Tacoma to the south puget sound, Seattle in the central Puget Sound and Everett to the northern end of the sound. Together these cities make one huge metro area that runs from Tacoma to Everett on the I 5 corridor. About 80 miles long total. The fourth pop area is Spokane in Eastern Washington on I90. Personally I have issues with King County (Seattle). Im a little OK with Snohomish and Pierce (I live in Pierce) but there are better counties by far. Enough time spent here, PM me if I can help. Overall a outdoor mecca, and a decent state to live in. Take care Mike

I like the rear air....thing on your wagon, looks like it would be great for dirty dusty roads. Where did you find the components. I installed the rear portion of my 2 inch lift, finished my weber conversion and re-organized my storage trunk in the back. Getting ready for winter equipment. Mike

Thanks for all the help, both old posts and new, It took about 6 hours total. I used the kit in its entirity(?). The tall air cleaner cleared the hood, and I even used the plastic spacer from the hitachi. I think I routed the pcv right. No more flat spots, crappy aceleration, mileage (hopefully). Very nice idle too... A little bit of sinus irritation/headache, but not too bad. Is that a lean condition? Other than that, its time to do plugs, wires, cap and rotor. And I need to reset the timing too. Anyways Thanks Mike:banana:

Never mind I made some "adjustments" and now its installed. Mike

So Ive looked at every pic I can find. It seems my new weber is the only one here that the fuel nipple faces the front of the car, instead of the rear. So it hits the ac compressor in a way that wont work. The pics Ive looked at appear to generally have a threaded port with a plug, so I could move the nipple to face toward the rear. With my carb there isnt another port, just the one facing forward. So if I remove the non work ac compressor, do I need another bracket for the alternator. It seems as though the compressor is kind of intergrated into the bracket. Any Ideas? Thanks Mike

Perfect, Thanks again GD Mike

So, on my new weber/redline kit I see the instruction mention something about a power brake booster fitting built into the top adapter plate. Mine does not have one. Did I get the wrong kit? Also I see on the carb a vacume advance fitting and a plugged hole for the EGR Port. I have a CA emmision car with two vac advance units on the distributor. I read someplace that with the weber I plumb the vac advance port to the fitting closest to the distributor, right? And as for the EGR, do I need it? If so does anyone know if the carb is threaded under the copper plug. Or what the thread pitch is? Thanks Mike

I have had two justys. Both GREAT cars. One was an 89 that was my wifes first car, the other a 92 I think. They were both two doors and manuals with the push button 4wd. Didnt get really great mileage, about 32 to 35 mpg. But they both had a LOT of nuts, considering only three cyl. The only problem I had was a lost cone washer on the rear cv shaft, and then I over tightened the main nut. Which weakend it and ultimately broke it. The CV shaft was a bugger to get. Had to pull a part one. Other than that both cars had over 200k both cars ALL original, even the clutch. I found them to be great little cars, but I also like the metros too, so you might consider me a little biased. I beat the hell out of them too. Any where from a 50 mile round trip commute to 100 miles round trip. Then weekends up on the forest roads, shooting, hunting, camping, exploring. Just my opinion, Mike:)

Thats interesting, about two weeks ago I noticed the inside of the rear tires were severly worn, and it happened quickly. I got to looking at the rear and sure enough the tires lean in. Not a whole lot but apparently enough. So I finally installed my rear half of the two inch lift. It doesnt look like it helped. So I was thinking about using washers to shim out the top of the tire by around a quarter of a inch. Does any one see any real problem with this. IFS chevy's have used this tech. for decades so I THINK it will work here. The rear camber does not appear to be adjustable via factory means. Thanks Mike

Ive had to use a real long extension from time to time. Like a breaker bar with a three foot pipe. I have even had to use air tools once, but that one was rusty as hell. Lots of penetrating oil too. Good luck Mike

I finally ordered my carb. Im only going to be able to take one turn off from work, about a day and a half. How long should it take me to get this new, properly jetted carb installed and running well enough to get me back and forth to work for say a month. By then I will be able to take some more time off for fine tunning. Im hoping that it will take about 4 hours to install and tune, but Im not sure. By the way it is an 86 ea82 GL wagon. Thanks Mike

Just got back from Kansas. Im looking for some info on a good place to get me a new weber kit for my wagon. 86 gl 1.8 carbed. I didnt have any time to check while I was away. And it is TIME for the conversion. Way to many trips to work result in nasty fumes and poor idle/flat spots. Thanks guys Mike

Sometimes the computers are just wrong too. Junk in is junk out with computers. For instance I work for Autozone when Im not at BNSF. Our computers claim that all subarus from 1980 to 1994 can use 10-30, 10-40, and 10-50 oil. Who ever converted the good old parts/service books into computers made a little mistake and at least at my store it is fixed. I have found that some stores are worse than others for getting the wrong part. Sometimes the syst. is wrong and sometimes the clerk picks the wrong part. And then sometimes the vendor just doesnt offer the parts we need to the store we are standing in. Just my experiences. Take care guys Mike

It just keeps going and going and going and.............. I have had good and bad luck with swing gates. Two of them were built by major brands, and did exactly what Mr. Appel says. Two of them were built by friends, with small Timken sealled bearings in them. They were perfect, and lasted longer than I had the rigs. The only rattling I heard was my teeth, on the two with bearings. Thanks Mike

I wish I had your energy to finish my rig.. It looks great, the bumpers are exactly what I want to run front and rear. Plus im with you, its my DD, the only off road it sees is forest service and light trails that are too tight for the wifes suburban. Hey did you end up going back in service? Mike

Hell I cant even remember the last time an emissions test person opened the hood on one of my cars. Regardless of OBII or not (not many of my cars have it). Definately remove the unit, dont replace it. Or do the best thing possible, move to a non emissions testing area. Mike