backcountrycrui

Yup I already have a two inch lift built. Just need to get moving on some other projects before I can tackle that one. Hopefuly soon though. Thanks Mike

Now that the car doesnt actually stink like a mouse nest, heater is working, Car is timed and running pretty darn well, I figured it is time for a couple pics. There is NO rust, only a couple of small dents in the body, one pretty good sized on in the fron bumper. All in all I like it WAY MORE than my loyale. Not just because of the DR, but because the interior is more comfortable, there is more legroom. The seats are nicer and there is a dead pedal in the 86. Making it way more comfortable on long drives. What do you think:banana:

I once had a problem just like this on a 82 wagon. I went under it and found a cord of nylon rope had wound up and around the input into the rear diff. So darn tight that I had to cut it off with a knife. I dont know how long it had been there. When I shifted into 4wd the car almost came to a stop. Mike

I dont know, I think they are a direct transfer. Sounds like you might have a bent wheel? Do the wheels run well on their original cars? Same size tires? Like I said, I think they are swappable. Mike

Where can I download a manual to see if I can fix this. Otherwise Ill check around for a used dist. Thanks Mike

So, 86 gl dr 5sp. Every time I start it it runs ruff until the check light comes on. Usually takes about 90 sec. Doesnt matter if it is warm or cold. Or if I let it sit for the 90 or try to drive it right away.(doesnt really like to go until light is on) It is the code 73 pulse something something in the distributer that tells the computer the engine is running. So any ways, runs GREAT when the light comes on. Thanks Mike

Not sure if it the same on brats. But on GL there are fan control resisters behind the heater fan, mounted into the same plenium that the fan is mounted in. On my 86 ther is a couple of cracks in the white colored clue on the resister wires. It still works great. On my 90 however there is two coils that have melted away. So only fan speed 3 and 4 work on that car. Hope it helps Mike

Ok where to start. 1 Fixed po's error when setting the timing belts 2 Fixed po's error when setting the distributor 3 Pulled apart the dash to remove po's mouse friend:mad: 4 Rewired po's poorly wired fog lights 5 Vacumed out car 6 Installed MY Yak Rack:banana: Now I get to start doing things that I am actually excited about. Mike

I did a little cleaning today and added a can of sea foam to the tank. That made an improvement. The flat spot is probably half as bad:banana:. One thing I notice now is that the car runs poorly when i start it until the check engine light comes on. Then it runs like a champ. Sans the aforementioned flat spot. The light usually comes on after 60 seconds or so. The code is for the pulse thing. From what I read it has to do with the computer getting a signal saying the engine is running. Dont know if Im going to wory about it right now though. Thanks guys Mike

This morning I went out and un-hooked the cable that pulls the temperatur flap. I noticed that the arm moved a little further than the cable could alow it. So following an earlier post I unscrewed the gear connected to the cable and move the flap on its own. Wala, the flap wasnt able to close all the way. So I put it back together and I have decent heat. Still not really hot, but certainly enough to defrost the windows and keep me warm. I still think I will replace the thermostat just to be sure. Who has the best prices on OEM thermostats? Thanks Mike

Well Im getting a little bit of heat out of the floor ducts. But by the time it reaches the windshield it is cold. I cant tell it the radiator hoses are hotter than the heater core hoses. And the two heater core hoses feel really close in temp. Could it be the thermostat not letting it warm up enough. The gage doesnt get any higher than my gold loyale and that car doesnt have any heat problem. I swapped the hoses and will see if that helps. Thanks Mike

OK, Tomorrow I will try and adjust the hitachi. IF I can Ill run it until I go back to work. I dont know crap about carbs but I have my manual. If I cant, then Ill see if I can scrape together the money. Thanks Mike

http://www.carbkitus.com/product_info.php?products_id=2781 Looks like a decent price. Ive read about people having problems with the redline kits. Is this still a problem? Thanks Mike

Now that the mouse nest is history Im going after the carb. It looks like the guy who did the rebuild put new vac. lines in. GLoyale, do you happen to have an idea which hoses had pellets? Im going to spend some time with the manual and see if I cant get it adjusted tomorrow. Thanks Mike

That actually makes sense. Now that everything is installed, my temp selector doesnt go all the way down into the cool zone. So the converse should also be true. That when the dash lever hits the stopper on the hot zone the blender may actually still be blending in cold air. Ill check it out \ Thanks Mike

If you have power at the two connector on the rear window, then there is prob. just too many breaks in the heater wire on the rear window. On one sub I just have 3 or so wire that are broke. All the others work. The other sub there is like 20 that are broken and the whole system doesnt work now. Ive seen repair kits that just sortof glue in place over the original, bridging the break in the wire. I havent tried them though. Im not sure how the wire travels from the switch to the rear window, but I suspect that it is pretty well protected. The ground may be a problem that isnt so well protected. And I think a little more prone to failure or loosening. Good luck Mike

Well, I got the mouse NESTS out of my new 86 wagon. All cleaned up. Before I pulled it apart I didnt really test for heat. Hard to do when the whole system smells like mouse crap:mad:. Any way, I searched and searched before I did the work, found great tips. All the flaps work. Temp selector works. No heat. While I had it apart I used the hose to flush back and forth through the core. It seem to flow fine. Didnt get alot of stuff out. I used vinegar and let it set for 6 hours or so. Flushed it again. Now all installed both hoses were hot. Im going to try switching the hoses and flushing the system. If that doesnt work then drano. My question is how much flow should I see and how close should the temps be on the heater hoses going to the core. Thanks Mike

In the oil and gas no smoke. In the air intake lots !! of smoke. Suck half a can in at the brake booster. Use the throttle link to keep it runnning until it craps out. LOTS of smoke. I let it sit for about fifteen mins and then sucked up the other half. Let it sit then start the car and keep it running until it stops smokin. It will run like crap until its out. It took about 10 min to run it all out. For my car it took out all of the start up rattle and what sounded like the begining of TOD. When it had been in the high single digits for a week here I went out and started it. STILL no startup noise! Mike

When i purchased my 1990 loyale a year ago, it clattered and clicked and made all kinds of noise out from under the hood. The oil looked lilke it had been changed that day. So I drove it home (200 miles) and it got a little better. I did a tune up and that made it better. Did a search on this type of addative. I have used seafoam on other cars too. I bought two cans. One can in the empty tank just before I filled it up completely with reg unleaded. Half a can in the crank case oil. I left it in there for about 200 more miles and changed the oil. Second half of the can went into the vacume system at the brake booster. I tell you I didnt know a sub could run so quietly. I dont have emisions testing here. But I dont think that it would hurt anything. And it could make it better. Hope this helps Mike

Ya no crap. Today I am elbo deep into the mouse nest eviction program. I have the dash out and half of the heater vents. Just have to get the heater core and box out now. When they are out then I will stop for the night. Tomorrow promises to be a disgusting day or cleaning out and sanitizing(?) the ducting. Im looking for the best place to get some 3 by 5 steel tube for the bumpers. Found a place in Seattle that has .12 thick sticks of 7 feet long for 100.00. Any how, pics as soon as I can. Mike

Santa brought me something a little late. Costco had a 2500 lb atv winch for 80.00. Its by champion, a company who I have had very good experienses with. This unit comes with a mounting platform so you can use it on both ends. A roller fairlead, snatch block, shackle and quick connect power plugs. I know it is a little earlym, considering I havent even finished with the mouse nest problem, but I will take suprise presents when I can. Ill let you know how it works after I have a chance to test it. Mike

Guys, My 1986 dr 5spd wagon has a rebuilt engine and rebuilt hitachi. It sat for six years imediatly after the rebuild. I bought it, got it running easy and this is the only real mechanical problem. It starts and runs fine. Step on the gas a little and response is ok. Push a little more and there is a little stumble and flat spot. Push it further and the vacume secondaries seem to kick in well and your off the the races. My crap haynes manual dosnt really show anything. Can I adjust this out of the carb. Not much money for a weber now. Thanks Mike

Qman, I never thought of spelling it both ways:grin:. Im guessing that you took of the fender to route your pipe that way???? It looked sharp. Mike

When I take on this project, Im thinking about going down to an exhaust shop near here and have them bend up some pipe for the intake and then out through the fender. I think I saw on another post where a guy used a (house) roof top rubber flange(like for you sink breather pipe) to transition out through the fender? Looked like it worked well. Now I cant find the post:mad: I figure it shouldnt be too expensive for my new carbed wagon. For now Im still fighting a mouse nest smell. Mike