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I guess that's like driving a car in Maine with no heat. You just can't.

I'm fairly certain the center section of the gauge cluster (one with the warning lights, door lights, etc) is completely different wiring between 5speed and auto. It kinda makes sense, because one has all the auto shifter stuff, and one doesn't... I fixed my engine light with electrical tape...

I'm assuming a dirt road? I noticed the same thing with my car. So I just started going faster in 4wd and it was fun again

Yep, I agree with Olink. Driver's side hash mark looks like it's under the pink paint, passenger side looks like it's under the grey. You can confirm that by running a screwdriver or your fingernail or something over the surface and feel for the mark. IIRC there isn't an inner timing cover on the passenger side of that motor. The outer cover just mates up to the head. You're supposed to line the mark on the cam gear up with the link between the head and the cam retainer (or whatever it's called). There should be a line where the two mate.

Sounds like you got a 25 spline turbo axle. Next time you get an axle count to make sure it has 23 splines on the inside. I usually just buy parts for a 90 loyale. There are fewer options in those years and you're more likely to get the right parts.

I think the auto gauge has 4x4, but IIRC it doesn't have a low range light. You'd have to swap the center section out to get that. I actually have all the parts to do it on mine, but the wiring is all different and it would require a lot more work than it's really worth for a stupid light. So I just leave it how it is.

I'd just take it to a reputable upholstery shop. I'm sure they can rebuild the seat cushion or whatever they do. I haven't taken these seats apart, but there's a chance the passenger side seat bottom would work on a driver side seat. I've done that on other cars before. Passenger seats are usually in better shape at the junkyard.

How did you increase the idle? You really shouldn't mess with the throttle body... It's supposed to idle at 700, you're going to piss off the computer if you mess with it.

Is there something wrong with your trans? You can grab a 2.2/5speed set out of pretty much anything with a 3.90 final drive. Early legacy, obs, whatever. If you get an older 2.2 you just have to put your original heads on the older block an it'll work fine.

I actually had to use my bicycle once when my subaru broke down. I wasn't really very happy, but wicked glad I had the bike.

Here is the page from the FSM detailing how to align the rear wheels. There's actually a surprising amount of camber and toe adjustment possible.

Bicycle cables are also useful for turning into a clutch cable when yours breaks in rush hour traffic 4 hours from home ...

Wow that's not a bad price for gear oil. I'm gonna have to pick some of that up. I never changed the oil in my junkyard trans, I just made sure to keep the tailshaft capped, and ran it LOL.

I know everyone has their own opinion on oil, and blah blah blah. Which is great and all, but personally I buy oil... I buy it by gallon or 5qt jug, and I buy whatever is cheap. $2.50/qt actually isn't a bad price. I usually end up paying around $12/gallon.

The wheels will fit fine, the outback tires might be too big. 205/55/16 is the usual tire size legacys have with 16" rims, and that size would work well.

Last time this happened to me I grabbed one from the junkyard. No key. I bought new wafers and just re-keyed it myself. But I'm sure a good locksmith could re-key it for you, as well. It's not very hard.

No. Unbolt the engine mounts and the dogbone mount on the top of the transmission. I usually unbolt the exhaust as well, but people tell me that's not necessary (maybe someone can chime in here). Then just jack the engine up. Easiest from the transmission front diff. You'll need a wobbly extension to get to the back bolts, but it is possible.

That doesn't look too bad. Mine is dented worse, and it seems to be just fine. Any EJ oil pan will bolt up, actually. Stay away from turbo pans because some of them require a different pickup, but 2.2 and 2.5 ones will work. I've put plenty of 2.5 pans on 2.2s, and vice versa with no issues.

I dunno, a bazillion? I doubt anybody really knows for sure. It did make terrible bearing noises and ground into every gear, though!

I wouldn't concern yourself with it, that's actually amazingly clean. This is the old tired trans I pulled out of my GL. The blue paint can cap is just a plug to keep it from pissing all the oil out when I pulled it.

I've had that happen before. The tumbler is worn out and you'll have to replace it. Probably should do it sooner than later.

Often scrappers will just pick the thing up and give you some money for it. Just call the junkyards in your area and see if they'll take it.

Did they also try to sell you a new car at the same time? Check to see if you have coolant/oil mixing. Oil will look white and nasty on the dipstick, coolant will have an oil sheen on the surface. You might want to get it looked at by a different (reputable) shop before diving into an expensive repair that may be something simple.

Scotty's cocktail has been known to cause a lot more damage than good in the long term. I'd just stick to extra-s if you want quality.

Doing it without removing the engine would completely suck. You've gotta disassemble all the timing chain stuff. Covers, backing plates, etc, etc. It would be really painful in car.