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As far as I know, the subaru SOHC gaskets are the same crap, that's why I use the STi ones. They're the same price anyway.

Oh that reminds me. My clutch cable broke on a road trip a few hundred miles from home. I had a bicycle with me. I robbed the back brake cable from that and fed it through the cable housing. Tied the ends off with some bailing wire and tape, made it home just fine!

Yea, using the sti headgaskets for the sohc 2.5 (what you have) is the best. Subaru part number 11044AA642. The felpros on the EJ engines have been known to be troublesome.

I'd probably just get under the car and use bailing wire to permanently put it in 4wd. Just wire the lever that gets actuated by the vacuum canister, and be done with it forever.

YIKES!!! That timing belt is ready to break any second! Line that mark up and see how the outside ones look, it's hard to tell sometimes. The sure way to know is to count the teeth between marks. My mind is totally blanking on the tooth count, and I've gotta run off to work right now, but it doesn't even matter. That belt is so far gone, a new one will have marks on it.

Careful with that one, some types of oils will actually destroy the rubber seals in the brake system almost immediately. I had one towed into the shop with zero brakes because someone dumped castor oil or something stupid into the master cylinder. Destroyed the cylinder seals completely. For safety, we had to rebuild all the calipers and flush the entire brake system. A while later it came in for ABS failure. So yea, don't go dumping spoob willy nilly into your brake system unless it's a really huge serious emergency. I just carry brake fluid with me... Saved a friend of mine on a different trip out into the woods. Blew a brake line, and it took a bit of fluid to get the repair bled and working.

Not that it matters, but the 96 dohc AFAIK is only valve to valve, not valve to piston interference... But yea, what are you ordering that makes it matter?

I thought they stopped doing the show last year, and now they just do re-runs. I did call them up once about something (I knew what was wrong), but hey, it was good for the entertainment and wrong advise!

HAHA, that reminds me, I used the hood release cable as a throttle cable once. That was an awkward drive...

I've done a lot of zany fixes, and I have a list of them somewhere, but I'll post em up as I think of them. One of my latest ones here, actually took pics. Some friends and I were playing around on logging roads in northern Maine, out near Canada. A good long drive from pavement, and for this guy, another 200 miles home. As you see, his strut tower sought freedom. Of course I carry a chainsaw in my car, whipped it out and cut up a tree... Eventually we had to add a second strap: The window did end up getting broken. But ehhh. The car was junk at that point anyway. So it wasn't really a big deal. Of course I've done the "normal" redneck repairs: crimping brake lines, penny nail in a flare fitting to seal up a broken brake line, soldering wires with a lighter, etc... Another good one was when a friend and I were taking a road trip and he blew an auto trans cooler line. It was a hard line, just rusted through and popped. Without anything to fix such a condition, I cut the rusted section out. Cut up some of the rubber line, and used the case of a bic pen as a tranny cooler line. It worked great for the next 100 miles to a parts store to get proper stuff to repair it. I've also had a lot of makeshift fixes on boats out in the ocean, but I think those are for another thread

So although my beloved 89 GL is rusted to the grave, I have a lead on a fwd auto wagon that's (apparently) rust free. About 200 miles from here. Friend says it only works in 2nd and 3rd gear, and has a badly blown headgasket... Since I'm gonna toss the entire driveline, I might try to get it home. The driveline in my GL is solid, so I can just swap everything over. Alternately I might drive my GL down there and do a marathon 4wd/5mt swap in his driveway over the weekend .... That could only end well

Well I spoke too soon on being excited. I was buttoning up the brakes, and started poking around a bit at the rust. Yea, car is gone. GONE. Serious structural rust on the everything

I needed a new outer brake hose for my rear disc brakes on the GL. Turns out no parts store in Maine had one closer than NJ. I did a bit of searching around for other lines that would work. I finally picked one out for a rear outer brake hose on a 1988 Nissan 200sx. It's a tad longer, but it's gonna work great! Cheaper than the subaru part, too. So if you're ever in a bind to find that hose, just get the nissan part

Why not just drive the legacy?

Since it's a brand new car, don't you still have raodside assistance from subaru? I'm pretty sure my mom got that for a year or something as a standard package when she bought her '14 XV. Just call 'em up and say it broke, and they'll bring you a loaner.

Post some pictures of your so we can see what you're talking about. But for a 95 legacy, the automatic should have EGR, and the manual shouldn't.

Ok, so a friend of mine told me there exists a product called the VSS pro that does something similar? I don' know, it sounds expensive and I didn't look it up. BUT what I did do is try to mock them as much as possible, because this is built out of all stuff I had laying around (I have weird stuff laying around).

I'll put together a more comprehensive post when I have more time to work on it. The next two weeks are crazy for me, I'm waiting for parts in the mail, and it'll be a couple weeks till I'm actually back where the car is currently parked. I have pretty much finished writing the firmware, I have an auto calibrate mode etc all done. And sure, why not. I see no reason it couldn't work with km. That's just a 16/10 scale factor on everything. Also as I said before, there isn't much for parts, most of the magic happens with the firmware I wrote. I can post a schematic if I ever make one. Usually I kinda just hook things together, draw a scribble or two, and solder it up... I'm pretty unscientific about the whole process...

Just replace it. It's not worth trying to weld it back together. Good 'ol Murphy says the tab will come off at night in a rain storm. Also don't pry those off, I've seen people crack the oil pump doing that. The proper way is to tap the holes out and use a puller.

I might, there really isn't much to it. Most of the stuff on there is for my own diagnostics reasons. Really it just takes a signal from the VSS through an optoisolator, has a few lines to the screen, probably 3 buttons, and an output to the gauge head. Most of the magic is inside the pic and my firmware.

So my GL has never had a speedo cable, since it has bigger tires the speedo would read wrong anyway. So I'm solving it the hard way! I'm gonna put a VSS in from an EJ in the trans (because they thread right in). I'm gonna swap the guts from some speedo into the GL cluster (shouldn't be too hard), and to top it all off I have a digital readout. It will show mph, an odo. I can feed calibrated data to the speedo, so it should read right. It has another screen for tripA and tripB with mileage exact to the thousanth for TSD races, and of course a calibration screen. In the pic the LCD looks kinda crappy, it's actually really readable with nice contrast. Also I'm not using that gigantic 40 pin chip, there's a code compatible 18 pin version that's on its way. In 2 weeks when I'm back where my GL is currently living, I'll throw it all together, calibrate it, and enjoy the awesomeness I'm just feeding it test data that should be fairly close to what the car will give it driving down the road. I'd also like to note, for all you nerds out there. No, I'm not using any floating point numbers, it's all integers

This project is amazing! That suspension setup looks like a royal pain to figure out. All the angles and whatnot. It's cool seeing it come together!

I extracted the URL out of that mess, but the vid is only about 30 seconds long and doesn't show the procedure http://vid209.photobucket.com/albums/bb29/Gloyale/IMG_1042_zps1b8d61b1.mp4

If I'm gonna go through the trouble, I may as well be able to calibrate it exactly, also I can add an LCD for TSD rallys and stuff. Distance per pulse is easy to figure out. I have a rough estimate, so to fully calibrate it I just have to stuff different numbers in the algorithm to work it all out. I could even have settings for each different set of wheels, or whatever.... Your options really are limitless when you start controlling stuff with a computer

Yea, I'm probably gonna have to use the guts from the gauge cluster on something else :\ Aftermarket speedo kits are expensive, and I'm cheap/poor....