Ricearu

So, my outback took a giant duke. Rod bearing failure. I have been doing my research and found a few things, and still need more to go. My FSM is pretty good, but misses a lot of O-ring descriptions. and some other things. I know the basics, but does anyone know of a complete write up on this? When I say complete I mean complete though. If not, I am gonna make a USRM of this while I do it with lots of pics. :cool: Here is a diagram of o-rings/gaskets I cannot find part numbers for. If you know their part numbers, please reply to this with them by letter. I plan on doing a ground up on this motor. I am sending the block halves to the machine shop to be decked, the crank to be polished hopefully (only ran knocking for 30 seconds max), acl race bearings to .0018 clearance. which is the spec that subaru uses in all later 2.5's. .0007 was too tight and couldn't keep the rod journals cool from oil flow. .0018 nets 254% more oil flow. I found this info from the blue printing process to put them in small aircraft. Anyways, advice and insight wanted and appreciated. tips and tricks really wanted. Like how do I get the piston pins out without SST. LOL

Just spin. it should have very little udlr play. it should wiggle a little but that is just the rubber bushing taking up for vibrations. if it moves you will feel vibration while moving. Likely when the diff slid forward, it broke the rubber bushing around the carrier bearing. Likely... check it closer, hell, drop the two bolts out of the thing and have a better look. Oh, and don't let the yoke slip out of the trans or you may lose some trans juice.

carrier bearing should not have any play. you may have broken the rubber bushing in it. and if you don't fix it soon, you will need to replace the drive shaft because the u-joints will be shot.

same thing on my older GL. Inner DOJ on the axle. a little warped axle could be that one of the parts of he DOJ have failed and left it offset and will transmit directly to the hub a hellacious vibration under throttle. Never seen a BAD subaru torque converter, much less one that causes vibration. Sounds like you need to find a more subaru specific mechanic.

its easier to swap the complete tail housing. you can swap only the center diff. I would grab a junkyard tail housing and be on your marry way.

he means O2 sensor

my old 110k mile forester had a plugged cat and had an almost cyclic stumble in the low range. I unscrewed the front o2 sensor and drove it around and viola! ran like a champ. $130 ebay bolt on catalytic converter later and she was ready to roll. I looked into the old cat with a flashlight and the ceramic core had melted down and blocked the exhaust flow.

its probobly the tail light gasket area. 3m Mastic sealant will fix that, take out the tail lights one by one and reseal them. The sealant on them should be rubbery and goopy. if it's dried out, and cracking, they will leak. also, check for rust holes in your spare tire well that could let water in.

also, I know from experience that if the knock sensor goes bad to where it doesn't read knock but carries the right resistance, that the computer will advance the timing, hunting for it's limit with fuel given and ping like hell. My 90 did that until I replaced it. I lost a few horse and gained some fuel mileage.

megasquirt engine management? http://www.diyautotune.com

because people like having chrome/anodized/powdercoated pieces of metal hovering just above their alternator's hot post. oh yeah, and +1 on the delta cams.

I just back the nut off a inch or so, and mark the tie rod with a sharpie. sharpie works really well for this because it won't bleed into the tie rod itself and holds a good line. you may need to clean the inner tie rod with brake parts cleaner if it's all greasy. when you reassemble, just screw the tie rod, until the mark on the inner (threads) touches the tie rod end. I do like the idea of routine alignments, but if you shop around, you can have them done really cheap. 20 miles from my house is a shop that has the alignment rack flush into the floor and does a lot of high end and lowered cars, and does a basic 4 wheel alignment for $40.

#3 sound like torque bind, if you have no flashing AT TEMP light on start up, I would start by pouring in a bottle of Trans-X, available at wal-mart, or auto parts stores. if it bucks and lurches while turning corners or circles in a parking lot, it's torque bind.

ej25d - phase 1 2.5 DOHC ej251 - phase 2 2.5 sohc 1999 EJ25D DOHC shares a EJ251 bottom end, with 52mm rod journals, and are not "prone" to bottom end failure.

3/16 or 3/8? I used 3/8" and is a BI**H to get on. at least the dayco trans cooler line is. I would try to find 10mm trans cooler line, and a small tweak of the hard lines takes away the kink in the hose as the stock one's are molded. you could buy them from the dealer but it's a little unnecessary

i only check my oil in the morning. :cool:

your assumption is correct. I would buy a new clutch kit (exedy) and avoid Idling anywhere with your foot on the clutch.

also, EA EA-71 1.6l OHV EA-81 1.8l OHV EA-82 1.8l SOHC (cams on top of heads) FBXX NEW engines with XX being engine code(new impreza, forester, BRZ etc.) On the older stuff, a "T" added to the end is turbo

i used felpro's 22.99 set of viton ones from oreilly's auto parts with good success. but only one set.

sounds like phase 2 head gasket failure maybe. thoroughly check the head to block mating surface to see if that is what's leaking.

to fully disengage the duty c, the tcu needs to send 12v or so to the solenoid. it's in awd with NO power to the solenoid. 12v should disengage. do you have torque bind with the FWD fuse in?

the only reason i repeated it is because you said you ran it while filling until it came out of the bleeder screw, but with the car on, it can push out coolant and fool you.

i used to work at a kwik-kar as a pit man, and when I would come in after a day off, I would collect all the old crush washers from the drain grates that the monkeys let lie there. I always put them used one's back or put new one's on, and when I put a new one on, I threw the old one in the TRASH. so if a customer looked down past the slider grates, they wouldn't see them and think it came from their car.

don't use the booster line. you are really only seafoaming the one cylinder.

I have only changed one. It weeped a slight amount of oil. other than that, I changed the one on my 4.6l ford truck every other oil change because the design sucked and would leak if you reused it a couple times, but one reuse seemed to be fine.