brysawn

Yeah I think I can figure that out But the 4wd and neutral switch will connect to my harness?

I just looked at this thread and saw a half naked man instead of one of my trans pictures. Last time I use tinypic to host pictures. So does that mean that trans is "plug-n-play" into my loyale? No crazy wiring needed?

Audi 4000. Mine has a 20v straight 5, they are awd and fun as hell

This isn't it, is it?

What does it look like?

Bump, help me out! I'm looking to get one today

looks really good!

This is my roof set-up: It's made from angle iron and steel channeling, with some eyelets welded on. It bolts to round roof bars using pipe clamps. It's very effective, and incredibly strong. Also very simple to make

I'm looking to pick up a D/R 5-speed tomorrow, and had a few questions first. I created a similar thread earlier and was told that in order for it to be a direct swap into my loyale (push button 5-speed), that I needed to find an 87 or later tranny, otherwise I will have to wire in a neutral switch. So my questions are these: How can you tell on the trans, what year car it is from? (Is there a way to tell the difference between a pre-87 trans, and a 87 and later trans?) Do the pre-87 ones have an external neutral switch, whereas the 87 and later ones have it internally?

I don't see why it wouldn't work. I've had 50mm and 25mm adapters on my Volkswagen (5x100 to 5x130) and have never had an issue. But I would advise you to go with 4x100 over 4x130. Many, many cars use the 4x100 bolt pattern, and almost every good/cool comes in that pattern.

Always classy

So I got my tires rebalanced, and it still shakes

Are you saying that your problem is that your tires were misbalanced, or that your wheels were not torqued correctly?

I'm thinking it may be my front hub(s). I've e-mailed Scott, because I'm sure he can do them with more accuracy than I did. I will be getting my car aligned, wheels rebalanced, and maybe I will change out my bum axle. So I will be able to tell if they are the actual problem.

I'll have to give that a shot. Some of drivers side front studs are a little crooked. But I think that if a wheel is bolted on center, it's on center, regardless of a few crooked studs, because the gap around my hub (the little lip around the castle nut/axle part) appears to be completely even all around

Has anyone been able to correct this issue? Especially with strut top lift blocks? I haven't had my tires checked yet, but over the many years and sets of tires I've had mounted at Les Schwab, they have never messed up one. So I'm a bit skeptical on a misbalance

Yeah I figured. Even though I'm 6-lug, I'd love to have a set of those

Are you going to be selling those pugs?

I have a set of Toyota wheels (from a 2nd gen non sr5 4runner)...

I saw a lifted (2nd gen?) brat today, near my house in Maltby. You were turning onto paradise lake road from 522, and I was across the intersection. Just wondering if it was anyone here?

Are you planning on running a larger tire?

Thanks! I can't wait to get in a D/R and go wheeling. That must have been around 6ish (going to the sounders game)

If I can get some kinks worked out, I'll be there.

I'll be there. I'm not registered for the show, but I'm thinking about it

I'm not sure if it would be my 6 lug, although a couple of my studs may be crooked, the wheel is still bolting to the hub flat, centered, and tight. I changed around my tires to see if they were balanced differently, but same issue. All my suspension is tightened properly, and nothing is loose. So maybe I'll have my tires checked.