brysawn

Like GD says, EA82's are very fragile and cannot handle any boost. And EA82T's... Well, the swap isn't worth it and they have just as many problems. For the cost of the turbo and parts, and the many different internal parts you will go through, you're best to put it towards an EJ swap.

You might as well put the sticker on. It looks cool, and your car isn't much of sleeper with the fmic, scoop, and tach anyways

I don't think it's that easy. Often times (in a lot of different car models) the difference between a coupe/wagon/sedan is not just the rear half, but the doors and other parts are different sizes. I'm not sure about Subaru, but I'm betting coupe and wagon doors (front doors that is) aren't interchangeable

I thought so. Looks like I'll be going for the 27x9.5 swamper ssr

Changed my mind. Can a 225/75/15 or 235/70/25 fit with a 2" lift, without cutting anything? I'm looking at either general grabber at2's or falken high county at

I think I got the right ones. I have yet to try them, but all the measurements are spot on. Here's the ones I bought: I opted for the longer head as compared to the shorter one, because I don't know what my stud set-up will be like. So now for another question; Toyota studs. Like a Subaru stud, do they have a "head" at the end? And how difficult is it doing 6-lug with Toyota studs? Any information would be great.

Zefy made it sound like I could only use lug nuts specific to those wheels (the car would be a 2nd gen 4runner sr5). Because, if it's any Toyota lugs, that shouldn't be an issue.

Hmm, but if I do go to the Toyota studs and lugs, I will still need to find those specific lugs, which could be tough. I'm really dead set on using these wheels because they were given to me for free (they were leftovers from another car, so they don't have the lugs), and I've already got tires coming for them. So I'd like to make them work without having to dump a bunch of money into them. So, what would be the best thing to do?

Can't I use my Subaru lugs with a washer? Or just use the Toyota studs with the proper lug nuts?

I'm defiantly going to convert my hubs to 6-lug. I had an extra front hub laying around that I've already finished. But I used the old studs I pounded out, they didn't look bad, so I figured why not.

Well shoot, looks like I'll be going 6-lug then. I know the fronts are easy; pull off the castle nut and unbolt the 4 bolts on the hub and it's off, but how do I remove the rear drum (or part where I'll be drilling)? I won't have to mess with anything breaking-wise, will I? And how did you guys go at this? Get a crummy wheel, mark my 6x5.5 (I think) and drill through with what size bits?

True. The aluminum on the wheel is at least 1/2" thick, so I don't know if that would be an issue or not. I'm just looking to see if anyone has remained 4-lug on this wheel (or one with a similar situation) and what they did.

Yeah I understand. But the thing is, it's a lot easier for me to drill through the aluminum for the 4-lug, than it is to add 2 new studs to my steel hubs.

No that's not really the issue. The part where I need to drill my holes for my 4 lug (the 2 extra holes) won't be recessed like the others. Is that okay?

So today I got a set of perfect Toyota 4runner sr5 wheels, for free. Yes, free! But, they have an odd center section where I will need to drill my holes for my 4 lug. Has anyone used these wheels? And is it okay to have it so that 2 lugs that are recessed (where the factory lugs go) and the other 2 not? Here are a picture of the wheels:

Well, it was ran for a while when really hot. Until I heard knocking. I don't know what I've done because I haven't cracked it open yet. Also, if my cylinder walls are a bit wavy, is it possible just to get some new rings and run it? Or will it not run right at all?

I've got an extra EA82 long block laying around, but it's far from perfect. It's got 180k, zero compression in one cylinder, and low in the other three, and two crummy headgaskets. I'm looking to re-build it but I've got some questions first. I was looking at older posts that say after many miles, the cylinder walls are usually still good (you can see cross-hatching) but do they ever warp? Is this just a situation where I put in some new rings, resurface the heads, change the gaskets/seals (including headgaskets) and I'm good? Because for the cost for a minor bore, it's not worth it.

Mine has a hand made face plate "surround", because there were not kits, mine had to be hand made. It doesn't sit flush, but it doesn't look too out of place. I'll see if i can get a picture soon.

Easy fix, just get some spacers

These motors are non-interference motors. So if the timing is not correct, noting terrible happens (meaning no smashed valves/pistons). I think the car wouldn't run, or run well if the timing was off 1 tooth (correct me if I'm wrong)

Count me in. Once I'm done with school this term and back in WA, I'll be hitting the trails hard

I'd be interested in getting one also...

My fronts went at 125k, so I replaced them all. They are inexpensive, but very tough to do (the fronts at least), compared to other cars. You could also notice it when you are driving, by a loud howling nose, or the steering wheel vibrating (of which you could tell by grabbing the wheel and checking for play)

Where at? It'd be cool to see some more lifted subaru's. I'm in Monmouth for the next couple years

I'm not lifted yet (just waiting on some more supplies for the rear) but I'm a regular here. And I'll hopefully be at PIR tomorrow