brysawn

I'm just wondering if there is anyone available to weld some 2" extensions to my rear struts? I live in Snohomish, and will deliver strut/spring. Also, when can this be done, how long will it take, and how much will it cost me? Any help would be great.

When turning one direction, I have this annoying grinding sound coming from my driver side front brakes/suspension. It sounds like metal on metal, or like my brakes are rubbing, or something. But when I take it apart and look around, I can't figure out what it is. It doesn't seem to be affecting anything, but I can't stand the annoying sound. Oh, and the car is a 94 loyale

haha I guess so. But now the rears, is there any complications with welding them? Like with gas/fluids in the strut, heating up too much?

It took some strength and anger, but I got everything in. One corner done tomorrow hopefully the rest. I can't wait to order tires, so I can get it done!

I just can't drop the strut down far enough because the axle hits the "housing" where the control arm bolts to the body

haha yeah, thanks. I'm going to give it another go with a 3rd set of hands, and hopefully I can get it in.

I made disconnecting the sway bar my first step. In the picture it is just hanging there, not bolted in at all. Yeah here they are:

The axle hits the "housing" of where the control arm mounts to the body. Which prevents everything from dropping lower

the bolts are only tack welded in, it seems like I could grind them down and pound the bolts out, but I'm not sure how to grind the welds down...

to cut new blocks? or to loosen the motor mounts?

That seems pretty difficult though. It's almost easier to just cut some new blocks

I have my bolts welded to the top of the blocks. So I can't get the strut down far enough to get it placed into the blocks. I removed the sway bar (the one going across the car, from wheel to wheel) but what about the ones going from the body to the control arm? It looks like my problem is that the axle is hitting my control arm, preventing the strut from dropping lower.

I'm having a lot of trouble with this. Is there anyone around the Snohomish, WA (Maltby more specifically) area that could help me out this weekend? I'd be willing to pay for work and gas to get here. Also, my house has a car lift, I could trade for some lift time (if interested)

I have some homemade lift blocks for my loyale, and I'm having a tough time getting them in. Here's where I'm at: Do I need to take my tie rod ball joint out? It seems like it's holding me back from pulling the strut down far enough to get my blocks in. But I want to make sure I'm not taking too many things off

Yeah I know. But for $80 a piece, it's tough to beat. It's also hard to find mud terrain's in that small a size

So far, I'm pretty set on the General Grabber AT2 in a 205/75/15. Any opinions?

yeah I should have done that, but they are all welded in the hub, so I don't think that one should be an issue. But the others will all be ground flat before I put the studs in. But on another note; tires. As of now I'm thinking about the general grabber at2 or the falken high country at, both in a 215/75/15 which is around a 27" overall height. I want mud terrain tire, but I don't want to spend much over 100 a tire. Any suggestions?

For the last week now I have been creating some stuff to make a mild "wheeler" out of my loyale. Here are my phone pictures along the way. These are my lift blocks: (pre-welding) (welded and painted) And this is my 6 lug hub. I haven't done my drums yet. This hub is 6x5.5 using Toyota 4runner studs, because of the specific lug nuts my Toyota wheels require. (on this hub, one of the studs is crooked because I didn't grind down the uneven surface on the back of the hub. it still fits in the wheel great, and everything tightens down, so I figured it doesn't really matter.) everything should be going on this weekend.

I have never seen those pictures, that thing is awesome! ^^^

Pull drive shaft, drive backwards. Done and done

Type A's do not belong on this car, especially with those big tires.

It's what makes a Subaru, a Subaru

Actually, all he did to make is rwd was to simply remove the front axles (as it says at the top). But why he chose it is like anything, why lift a Subaru when you could buy a straight axle truck with much more potential, or why build a fast car when you could buy one that is already fast? It's unique, and if you like lifted Subaru's, than you should understand that.

I think it actually holds the power, I don't think he breaks many of them. It's probably an STI or WRX diff.

I don't know how many of you have seen this. But this kid is from Vancouver, and is a regular at Evergreen Speedway in Monroe, WA. It has an EJ22 with a WRX td04 turbo. Also, it has a welded center diff with the front axles removed, making it rwd. These are not my pictures, I did not take them.