logic23

I didn't mean the 4 flexplate to torque converter( i never put anything on these..they self tighten) I meant the flex plate to crank.

Started a new thread for easier searching later. What are peoples votes for transmission pan sealant?

ok heres an update... took the pan off an inspected again. After getting a diagram of the solenoids I think the one that was broken was the 2-4 brake duty solenoid ( not sure what it does dont have description for it) Since i was getting the p0748 code i then checked the line pressure solenoid and the housing of that solenoid seems to be damaged too...the male part on the solenoid is loose. Going to swap it out n the a.m. Anyone have a favorite transmission pan sealer?

I did some research and went with the Thule MOAB...custom sticker

I always put a little red loctite (971?) on the flywheel/ flexplate bolts. The ac bracket bolts and long power steering bracket bolts got red from the factory. Other than that I would put anti seize on the rest( if you live in a rusty climate.

pre 99 (spin on filter) transmissions internals are very different than the 99 up transmissions. I called the junkyards and their computers said that the 99 transmission was 99 only then 2000-01 are the same and 02-03 are the same. Anyone here know the difference... by looking at them they look identical.

Oh yeah the CEL light came back on after a couple drives still the 748 code.

OK drove the car (without fwd fuse) light flashed the whole time. Got engine up to temp and pulled it back into shop. Turned key off and started it no light Went to put it in drive and light started flashing. put FWD fuse back in> same result...flashing light. took FWD fuse back out and drove it. hard to tell if torque bind is present with the ice storm we just had. Pretty sure there isn't torque bind from the couple turns I was able to take on dry pavement. So I don't know why the FWD fuse was in....probably a desperate measure. So I'm leaning toward part incompatibility... might try to fix the original solenoid. The part that was broken was the part where the wire plugged in. The wire then goes around the side and over to a loop end that is connected to the valve body via a 10mm nut. I think I can splice into it/make a new connector. Any thoughts?

Ive seen this several times: hose blows and coolant runs out.... person keeps driving car ( not looking at temp gauge) HOT. Engine gets so hot that it stalls and white smoke etc. The knock sensor and pass side plastics melt down and every thing is toast. cylinders are overheated heads are possibly cracked. best solution get a new 2.2 and put new upper and lower hoses on it... least amount of time and $ involved.

OK i bought a 99 OBW 150,xxx miles last week to fix and sell. It had just had the headgaskets replaced by a non subaru type repair shop. It appears that they had the good sense to use subaru gaskets ( i can see the gaskets and the marks are subaru) The engine runs great but the transmission was in limp mode. There was no CEL or AT oil temp light with the ignition in the ON position I could also hear the tell tale signs of teh green test connectors (lower right side of steering column) being plugged in ( fans and relays cycling on and off) Towed it to my shop and began diagnosing...this is what i found. 1.Lights have been removed from dash to mask the flashing AT light and CEL and FWD light. Replaced lights. Good trick guys 2.unplugged the green connector and scanned the CEL got a p0748 and a mfg specific code ( i have it written down some where) 3. 748 code( out of range shift solenoid) + flashing light led me to believe there is NO communication between the TCU and the Solenoid. 4. inspected pan and saw a dent :(/:) 5. removed pan and found broken solenoid ( purple with white wire) 6. used a solenoid/ pan from a 2001 OB transmission ( bad front diff) 7. cleaned up pan etc, resealed and refilled with fresh trans fluid. 8. removed FWD fuse 9. started it up and the A/T oil temp light still flashing constant 10 disconnected battery waited 10 min and reconnected 11. Light still flashing and CEL light back on with 748 code I haven't driven the car yet ( replacing rotors) Questions: should i drive and see if the solenoid and tcu" become friends"=light stops flashing Are 99 and 2001 solenoids the same? I haven't done the handshake to see what the TCU says... What next? Thanks, Craig

The autos and 5 speeds both have their advantages and disadvantages. I say they are equal in the end. Personal preference issue.

My opinion is the 97-98 OBW limited ( dual sunroofs if possible) with a 95 2.2 engine ( non hydraulic lifters/non interference) This combo gives you the luxury of the OB) heated seats,sound system,all weather package) the reliability of the 2.2 and the most amount of parts interchange. The 96 had old style door lock system (some one year only stuff)and the late 98-99 OB have lots of one year only parts : spedo, ecu, tcu etc. Legacy electronics (ABS module, abs sensors) will fit outbacks but not the other way around. The outback ECU/TCU is programmed to work with the greatest array of parts. The legacy tcu/ecu dont like outback sensors etc.

Theres another type of bracket that sits on top of the radiator and attaches to the car. I have an extra i could sell you. They are on 99 OBWs

do the tentioners...see if the dealer will install if you supply the parts.

All auto legacy and outbacks are the same. carrier bearing is different between leg and OB. and rear shaft length is different for manuals.

I use the mizumo auto. CAUTION!!! the tentioner ( early cam style) they sell has a Japanese pulley and a chinese cast cam assembly. The casting is fine but the bolt and sleeve are too short and the bolt has teeth on it. IF TIGHTENED IT WILL LOCK YOUR TENTIONER IN THE LOOSE POSITION. After torquing the bolt the tentioner should move freely. I've alerted her (mizumo) to the issue and they say they are "looking into it". They are really nice. They've sold me parts of kits too (just tentioners) Oh yeah make sure to ask for timing belt WITH marks. I got a couple without. Also get the kit with the GMB or Aisian(sp?)<both japanese> pump. Ive never used the other one mentioned I'm sure its the same stuff.

I still consider the timing belt the "outards"

what year is your subaru? They are easy to do...like changing the belt on the vacuum cleaner. well a couple more steps. Do it yourself and you'll know its done right.

imprezas are a good place to look for the dual port 2.2 heads. I think they made them with dual ports for a bit longer than the legacys

keep buying 95-99 wagons. they are the golden years

put the bushing over a socket or in a vice so it has something supporting the alt.

its easy.... the hole is already cast into the head. just needs opened up and tapped. I have all the specs at my shop if you want them. If you do a search you might find them too( ive posted them up a couple times)

ill try both and let everyone know whats up... weird that it can have a miss with no cylinder missfire codes.

you can pound the bushing back with a 3/8 extension. give it a good couple hits....it will move back and your alt will go in.

i was going to swap out the whole intake. i have several good ones left over from 2.2 swaps. Ill switch the ignitor first. Do you mean ignition module or the coil pack.