logic23

Take the cover off and you will see if there's a hole in the filler neck. If not then you are in for the hardest thing on a subaru to replace. You have to drop the whole rear end of car. To add to the problem is that if your tank is rusted out so will the frame bolts that hold the rear end in place. The weld nuts will break loose in the frame. This job sucks don't attempt yourself. Also getting a good tank is real tricky. Most junkyards punch holes in them to drain the gas. If you find a junkyard that has a good tank they will most likely not take it out once they realize how big of a pain it is. I have done three tank replacements. I will never do one again. A rusted out tank is a dealbraker. I now strip off all good parts and scrap out. Sorry to be so harsh just trying to save you a world of frustration.

There are two sizes of rotors and two styles of pads that ive seen on the 2000-2004 outbacks. Most 2000 Outbacks have 34271 rotors and dg721 (autozone part numbers) starting in 2003 the OB got bigger front rotors and pads with smaller "ears" as long as you have the correct caliper bracket you can switch sizes....the calipers are the same. Just did it.

The easiest/cheapest thing to do is replace the whole spindle. Axle nut, two strut bolts, tie rod end, abs sensor wire, ball joint and brakes. Remove and reinstall....done. No pressing out bearing which never survives the operation.

OK i have a 2001 OBW 5 speed that has two CEL codes: p0446 evap control malfunction (something like this) o2 heater circuit malfunction Replaced the purge solenoid ( on manifold ) and replaced vacuum lines to it. CEL still comes on after 6 sec of running and the 02 CEL light come on after two starts. What do i need to check? car has symtoms: pulsing idle when you come to a stop.....self corrects after a second or two. touch throttle and pulse comes back. I also replaced the entire throttle body with sensors. ( i had a spare off a 2001 leg GT 5 speed) also when I give it the gas on the highway I hear a high pitched "sucking noise" from pass rear I inspected the vacuum lines by the tank and the charcoal canister and found no broken or split lines. I bought the car after they had run over a retaining wall to avoid an accident. The front drivers control arm was bent and the rear trailing arm was also bent and the exhaust was all twisted.... something might have hit something and ripped / broken something underneath????

I'm running one on my 99 obw with a 95 2.2. Figured it couldn't hurt.

when the timing marks are lined up all pistons are 1/2 way down/up. This keeps the valves from hitting the pistons if the cam jumps while the belt is off. So you are setting the engine 90 deg after TDC.

you might have put the cams gears on backwards.... the one with the R goes on the left when you are looking at the engine. if you have them on backwards then there are no timing marks on the drivers side cam=no spark.

yep....there are 6 8mm nuts hidden under the hood....take the nuts off and paint away. There are several companys that can match your paint and put it in a aerosol can.

dont sweat it too much... the tensioner is threaded into a bracket that can be replaced. its held in place with 3 12mm headed bolts. they are the same from 96 up. I might have one that I can send you. take a pic of yours and we'll see what we can do. You can also put a helicoil in the stripped threads. I wouldn't leave it the way it is now ......too big of a risk.

Since its a 5 speed there will mos likely be 4 studs instead of 2. I usually remove the top studs and replace with bolts while the engine is out....makes it easier to put it back in. 5 speeds are way easier to get out: no transmission cooler lines at the radiator and no torque converter bolts.

You should also replace the front O2 sensor. The 420 code is left over from when the headgasket failed. The O2 sensor gets fouled out and messes up the mixture. If you replace it her gas mileage should improve. I have done a ton of these phase 2 HG jobs and 80% of the time i end up replacing the O2 sensor too. Get a denso or bosch. Both were OEM.

the oil leak is the main issue with the phase 2 2.5 and 2.2. They start leaking on the drivers side. crawl under the car and inspect the mating surface between block and head. valve cover gasket will do it too. They leak and run down the cradle. The rear baffle plate on this model doesn't leak as often. They switched them to metal and they don't have a warpage issue

coil pack was swapped when i swapped the intake

ill check for the jumped timing. i think i checked that first...cant remember at this point...working on too many cars at the same time.

Snakes on a subaru.....ill call samuel jackson

Check to make sure its not the head gasket.... thats where they start leaking. You will most definitely want to resurface the flywheel.

replaced the ignition module too. all parts i replaced are good used subaru parts.

Give me a ring I am a subaru mechanic in columbus. I can give you some info for what to look for in this car. I also buy fix and cars like this for much less and all issues fixed. Ill PM you my info.

OK so i have a friends 99 OBW (5speed /2.5dohc)in the shop. Here is the issue: When warmed up (10 min) the car starts cutting out on several cylinders. I pulled wires off while running and all seemed to cut out evenly. I have replaced/swapped ecu, maf, whole manifold with sensors etc, fuel pump, cam sensor,wires, plugs and o2 sensor. None of these have fixed/changed the issue. The only CEL I get is a cam sensor code even after I have changed it 3 times. I get cylinder missfire codes when I am unplugging the wires. I have also found found evidence of mice taking up residence. So any thoughts or things to look for. I have a scanner that can read live data. Thanks

I use the pb blaster+ vice grips. wiggle clockwise>counterclockwise. also sticking a screwdriver between the ear and the spindle helps with some upwards action. I agree with most here that they are usually rusted in and come apart in two pieces. Reinstall with a light coating of anti seize on the sides. Also apply to the threads on the 12mm bolt. If you are taking off the spindle to do a wheel bearing leave the sensor in the wheel and unplug it under the fender. There are two or three 12mm bolts that hold it in and a rubber grommet where it goes thru the inner fender well.

Oh yeah a water pump should be driven by its own belt. that way if the serp belt breaks it wont cause the engine to overheat.

the serpentine belt design is a good idea.. it will save many an a/c and alternator bearing due to over tightening. The bad: plastic. Plastic( chinese) parts are the downfall of the automotive industry. VW stared using them in the mid 90's and its been bad new bears since. A lot of American Auto Manufactures use plastic intakes, pulleys....all junk. Intakes warp and cause vacuum and coolant leaks. I have already seen this with subaru. The a/c tensioner pulleys that were on the 2000-2001 + are plastic with a cheaper bearing and I've been replacing them with the earlier metal versions.

I agree.... The 2.5 has such a high failure rate that I don't see it fair/smart to recommend that anyone waste their money or time fixing it. I believe that our time as a group is better spent figuring out and documenting: A. how to change your 2.5 DOHC subaru to a SOHC subaru. B. non conventional ways to fix some of these HG issues since Subaru cant seem to. There are some really smart innovative people here on the board. I think our mission is to help people enjoy their cars and help people with the most reliable solution to their problem whether its a HG or a warped rotor.

the 99 has a factory alpine keyless entry.. just get the fob and program

I am doing the same thing here.. i bought 5 in the past month. Its thick with subarus..mostly rust free and for similar prices to north east. ~800-1000 for a blown engine outback/forester.