logic23

had the same issue on my 99 obw. replaced master cylinder and problem fixed. going to install my old one in another car to see if the problem follows the master cyl. it could have just needed bleeding

Cool if you are in columbus look me up. My shop is downtown. The Advanced clutches are the worst. I have had to take out two and replace them with the Exedy Kit. They sell the Exedy kit thru Car Quest. Its the same as the oem clutch. The Adavanced clutch used to be good. I hadn't bought one for a couple years but during that time the manufacturer started having the kits made in china. The problem with them is the springs in the clutch disk are junk and the metal in the disk is weak. I had to take one out a week later and one of the springs had almost ripped out of the disk....bad news. Just take it back they should give you a refund.

Those pics look great... They're like the old dealer brochures minus Paul Hogan. Your OB lost the hood scoop I have been running those rims with the bridgestone ponza tires on my 99 OB. I recenly switched to the 16 inch alloy forester rims the ride is a little smoother. Those rims do look great.

My 99 OBW with a 95 2.2 5 speed runs just over 3000 at 70. Are you aware of the reverse cut ring and pinion gears that you can have installed in a subaru 5 speed trans? Now you can run a complete subaru drivetrain in your VW...no adapter plates etc. I am going to tackle this in my 79 bay window( currently running a 78 Porsche 912s engine with type 4 fuel injection) this winter. Search reverse cut subaru gears. They are in Australia. As I remember the pics show a Manx buggy.

I've seen several 2.5 DOHC HG replacements fail (40-60K miles). 3 of them were dealer jobs. Don't mean to be a downer but the 2.5 DOHC engine has a lot of variables that can make it fail: headgaskets, plastic cams, idler pulleys and thousands of posts concerning head gaskets. Since no one has been able to explain the reason why this engine fails and then how to fix it I put this engine in the unreliable catagory.

I'm not sure which Nissan joints fit. When I take the subaru driveshafts to the rebuilder they always say," Oh yeah I remember...these have the Nissan joints". So I'm sure if you call a rebuilder they could tell you.

Yeah a chattering clutch is almost always attributed to the pressure plate or clutch disk. Where was your clutch kit from? The autozone/advanced ones are complete chinese garbage. Are you in canton OH?

It possible that the wires could have been damaged... To pull the codes there is a black pug under the dash to the right of the steering column with two black wires in the same harness . you insert one of the wires (doesn't matter which one) into one of the plugs ( do a search on the forum and you should be able to tell which one) then turn on the ignition. Voila the abs light will start flashing the codes. Nipper has a list of the codes.

99+ has the 8 bolt setup but an earlier one will work. They all have the bottom two studs and top two bolts in common. Should have the same final drive ratios. Someone on the forum has the chart that shows the transmisson sticker number to ratio.

clutch fork might have broken. Seen it/repaired a couple times

re route them under the back seat. Cut line inside car>add junction> drill hole and add grommet on opposite side>run metal lines to rear rubber lines> be happy

Those lifters are pesky..i just had to replace one that had collapsed. Its easier to replace them than mess with the snake oils.Changing them out takes 20 min. Do it when it is cold. I did it hot. hot potato...

Ill post some pictures. Hey I have a question about posting pics. Do you have to have them on a different server and use html to point to them or can you post them here. Every time I post pics they are small and inthe post they are thumbnails.

I took apart a 2.5 dohc out of a 98 forseter today and the engine had gotten so hot that the rear oil baffle cover and the knock sensor both melted. It looked like a Salvidor Dali painting. So when the needle gets to the red>>>keep driving until the engine quits.

98 spedo won't work. 99 spedo= 1 year only part

yes the door panel needs to come off to access the speaker/wiring

yep i posted this two weeks ago: the forester and outback belt are the same thing..except i think the forester belt is a little heavier duty. Also Forester engines have a plastic pass side cam.

x2 on the breakerbar then gun drill to get them the rest of the way out. Also get a better quality 12pt 14 ive broken a couple cheap ones.

you have a short...check the rear lamps in the hatch. ive seen these get super rusty and cause all kinds of issues...also if you have trailer lights check the converter box.

This is a trend I have been noticing with foresters. 99+ are throwing rods without any HG issues...I have replaced three and seen many more. Any ideas why this might be happening?

my 99gt wagon didn't have the wiring either.

I dont think it was a package thing. Every forester 98+ i've worked on has them. I've been adding them to the engines I rebuild for added longevity. The have aluminum thermostat housings with an added snout > hose runs to oil filter area where the cooler bolts where oil filter goes with a longer tube. the cooler has two snouts: one to the thermostat housing one to a snout that threads into a water jacket that has a 14mm allen plug. unthread plug then thread in snout and voila>>> oil cooler

Does anyone know why only forester engines have the water cooled oil coolers?

So I have noticed that some 2.2 have adjustable lifters and some have hydraulic. Does anyone have a preference on which they think is better. When I messed with VWs the buses had hydraulic lifters which were nice and quiet but I used to run into problems with them freezing up and holding valves open or freezing up and making the worst valve tap ever. I have run into the freezing up and making loud noises with the 2.2 hydraulics Thanks, Craig

No they didn't and if you want to do it right its a bit tricky. The heated seats have a harness that hooks up on the passengers side foot area inside car. There is a relay that gets power from a block on the drivers side. The wiring is integrated into the vehicles wiring harness that runs inside the dash. You could take an outbacks wiring harness apart and cut out the wires and make a sub harness.