logic23

i think your issue is going to be a wheel sensor. You ABS module doesnt care about the air in the system it only monitors the wave form from the wheel sensors and chats with the automatic transmission computer. When you turn the key on the ABS light should come on 10-15 sec then go off. If it doesn't then you need to pull the code. Nipper clued me into this you can do a search and find the info but basicly you need to find the black diagnostic plug (6 holes-4 wires)that lives to the right of the steering column. It is tucked up righ next to 2 green plugs. Next to it are two black wires (grounds). Take the black wire (with key off) and insert it into one of the 4 holes. I can remember which one, I think its the plug with the green/white wire. It doesnt matter they all go to different systems and you can't mess anything up if you put it in the wrong one. After inserting it into the plug turn the key on and you will see either nothing, the AT OIL TEMP or the ABS light start flashing codes. The flashes equal numbers (same system used in OBD 1 scanning,noid light) FLASH FLASH space FLASH=21 good luck, hope this jibber jabber helps

This car has no MAF sensor they got rid of them on the phase 2 engines. Could be a vacuum leak or a failing Idle Air Control. Could also be the MAP sensor you just put in. If it was anything but OEM it could be bad out of the box....autozone=cheap Chinese electronics. Does it ever stall at stop signs?

Sorry to be bearer of bad news. GAS TANK REPLACEMENTS ARE A SLIPPERY SLOPE If the car has been driven in enough rust to cause the tank to leak then all the bolts,fittings are usually rusty too. I drop the whole rear end to do this job. There are 14mm frame bolts that screw into weld nuts. What happens is that the weld nuts brake loose inside the frame=super bummer. I've also seen the bolts rust to the cast iron spacers in the wheelwells. The place that these tanks rust is at the seams and in the valley that is under the back seats. Subaru built the car around the tank and didn't take in to account them rusting out. BEWARE...I've done 3 and all were a rusty pain...damn you salt.

I've run into this problem a couple times. Everything points to the VSS. If the scan tool is giving you weird reading then its either the wiring or the VSS. There is only one on the transmission the other sensor is to read the output shaft speed. It is located on the passenger side by the axle>two wires phase 1 and one wire phase two(manual) on phase two transmissions it looks like a crank/cam sensor. The signal from all I've seen goes VSS>computer>speedo/tach

I use the "remove strut bolt" procedure. Mark the bolt to the strut as to not get the camber adjustment off. Around here you can get used Cv joints from the Junkyard for $30-40. This is the way to go. Rebooting is a MESS. If the c.v. joint isn't rusted into the hub you can do the job in 20-30 min. (this is with an impact gun) Also there is a special kind of punch called a roll pin punch. it has a nipple on the end so that you don't damage the roll pin. Well worth it. Also when you reinstall them they only go on the hub one way if they are 180 out the roll pin won't go thru.

99 Legacy, Legacy gt and OBW have the same sytem (alpine) as the 2000-08(?) I have a 99 OBW and I use the 06 remote. These cars have a security computer by the steering column, a l.e.d . on the dash next to the fog light swith and a motion sensor that is mounted behind the lower din of the stereo. They are all labeled by subaru on each unit. If your 99 doesnt have a security system you can put in the main computer (by the column) and program. If this unit isn't installed the lock/unlock button won't function properly. Thats about all i know about the 99 security system

if you are real strapped for cash I have a bunch of good lightly used 2.5 dohc timing belts, pulleys etc off low mileage engines that had blown headgaskets. I could put together a cheap care package.

Change the whole halfshaft. One the grease spins out the joint has been damaged and will fail prematurely regardless of a new boot. You only need to do the side with the torn boot. Inspect the other side for signs of cracking. My friends 05 just had his replaced under warranty. Lucky Guy.

always do the seals...they are cheap and keep scenarios like this from happening. I hate that view too... the, "where are you leaking from now" view.

im pretty sure that is one of the two wires that goes to the transmisson. There should be a grey on and a red one. The other end is most likely sitting on the top of the trans.

Those guys are the oil pressure relief valves. They could leak but if you are seeing oil here its is most likely the o-ring that goes between the oil pump and block. Cheap part>decent amount of work to get to it. If you are in this far replace: timing belt, water pump, belt idler pulleys, cam seals and front seal in oil pump.

This is a side note to this post but.... Nipper, can you tell the aproximate mileage on the engine from wear on the cylinder walls. I have only taken engines apart that are around 100K and the cross hatching in the cylinders looks great. In addition there is no lip at the end of the cylinder. I have taken apart a couple engines that I didn't know the mileage and their cylinder walls were perfect too. Any thoughts? Am I just looking at lower mileage engines or do subaru engines show little wear in their cylinder walls etc.?

Could be an injector that has a bad spray pattern but if it ran smoothly pre swap I would go after things that you touched> motor mounts>pulley>timing belt issues. It could be a plug wire that is shorting out. Ive seen these damaged when the engine is taken out or installed. They get pinched and the shielding is compromised. You can check this in the dark> look for the spark jumping out of the wire to the block. Be careful not to get your hands close to it....its an awakening experience to be shocked by a plug wire. You need to find out if the shake is there at all rpms. Put you hand on the engine and feel it running at idle.It shoud be smooth no jiggle. Grab the throttle and slowly raise the idle keeping your other hand on the engine. You should be able to feel the point where it "cuts out". Let us know what you find.

Nipper, You wouldn't do headgaskets on an engine with over 160k or you wouldn't use an engine with over 160k? As far as doing headgaskets on your 2.5 DOHC just junk the engine and replace it with a used 2.2 sohc engine. There are 100's of posts on here about it but it will take you down a much happier path with your car.

I think it broadens your list of donor cars to: any 5 speed subaru. The main difference in the wiring harness is the security system. in the 99+ the security system is integrated in harness and has one small ecu/relay box to the right of the steering column VS the large (usually added on and zip tied in place) security ecu 95-98. Im pretty sure all the sensors on the 5 speed are compatible with the earlier ecu's Also you can get an intake without EGR since the 5 speeds didnt have EGR unless you get the ecu etc from a OBW or forester they had egrs regardless of transmission.

Im glad someone posted the engine from legacy>forester. This would be the easiest path. But I know the forester look is not for everyone. Im into the look of legacys but several of my friends and girlfriend are into the Foresters. So no pressure her to cross over. Its fun the figure out what all will work on what....party on garth.

99 Outbacks and legacy GTs have the phase 1 Dual Over Head Cam>DOHC When looking at it head on it has a bow tie shape with 4 cams. The 99 legacys and Foresters came with phase 2 engines. These are easiest to spot by the smooth valve covers with round sparkplug holes on the top(easy to get to) To a trained eye the electronics are different the biggest one being no mass airflow sensor. When shoppping for intakes be aware there are two types with egr and without egr. I'm pretty sure your phase one early 90's 2.2 WONT have and Egr. Sooooo since your 99 legacy is an automatic (right?) you will need to get a manifold from a 95-98 2.2 automatic then you can either: drill/tap the head for an Egr or Set up the egr sensor,vacuum diaphragm and vacuum lines to fool the ECU into thinking there is an Egr set up. This works I did it on my OBW for several months>no CEL So thats all the news I got...

Your 99 legacy is what we call a cross over. It has teh old body style with the new engine/electronics. If you want to swap you engine to a phase 1 2.2 you will have to do a bit of work. Its not hard work just time consuming. You cant just swap manifolds anything that easy. The phase 1 and 2 manifolds are totally different. What you have to do is swap the wiring harness and components from a donor car. You have to use 99 obw or 99 GT only because of the transmission is different in the 98's. The harness attaches to the fuse box, steering column, at computer, ecu, blower motors and a whole host of other things. To remove it you have to take out the dash (which is EASY) and pull the wiring harness from the engine compartment into the inside of the car. You have to take everything attached to the harness that is different than your 99. Once you swap the harness/ ecu you will have a plug and play for your phase 1 2.2.

if you tap it in farther will it leak? seems weird that the recess is so big

OK my question goes out to all of you who build EJ engines quite a bit. When you install the rear main seal how deep do you drive it? I have seen them in a lot of different places, mostly fush with the bevel. Thanks

sorry just read that you did swap the intake. good job:)

also swap the whole intake with everything attached... ive seen differences that might cause problems..

All the phase 2 manual engines I've taken apart have the other style crank and cam gears. They also had 4 studs as opposed to the 2 that are on 99% of the ej engines. Luckily the auto is the easier to find i think they are the same as a phase 1 2.2 if you hav eone of those around. I had the same thing happen to me last fall. The car was backfiring and sputtering and wouldn't start. Change them out and you will be GOLDEN.

I did a complete auto>5 speed conversion in my OBW this winter and the abs unit was one of the things that had to be swapped. This is what I found OBWs and legacys have different front abs sensors. the OBW computer/module would work with the legacy sensors but the legacy computer/module wouldn't work with the OBW. So the OBW abs module is the better choice. The style I was working with was a BOSCH unit. You can undo the two 12mm nuts and pull the whole abs module up at an angle exposing the 6 torx screws that hold the abs module to the pump. remove all screws and replace with a new one and you are on your way. no breaking into the fluids. When you turn the key to the on position the abs light will turn off after 10 seconds. This means all is well in ABS land. If you start driving and it comes on you might have a bad wheel sensor. Subarus are real easy to pull the ABS codes from. Do a search and you should find it. Nipper posted a link that took me to it.

I'm doing the work for a customer. Ive done several but it was only on cars I was flipping. just wondering what the non dealer rate would be. Doing: headgaskets all oil seals valve cover gaskets intake gaskets new clutch timing belt all tensioners waterpump reseal oil pan and rear baffle separator resurface heads and flywheel