logic23

You need to replace the spedo assembly only with a 99 only. no used ones will work 80-90% failure rate. lots of $ for new at dealership.. i think when I asked it was $200-$300...ouch. Ill post up if i can get 2000 up parts to work.

he seems to know enough to check inside the radiator... I have a couple spare radiators from auto legacys ( no hg issues) i might throw one in just to eliminate several variables. You guys are soooo much help. C

I was wondering what you guys ( 360...nipper) were charging in labor to do headgaskets on the phase 2 engines? Do you break it down into categories like remove and reinstall engine $xxx disassemble-reassemble engine $xxx change all seals etc $xxx. Thanks guys

I'm leaning towards a radiator issue too...some kind of restriction in the flow. Thanks

I have a customer that has a 98 OBW. I recently replaced the engine with a low mileage 2.2 The car runs beautifully except for when he turns on the a/c the temp jumps up to 2/3. I haven't seen it happen yet but he says its full of anti freeze and that both cooling fans are running. We put the engine in months ago and there have been no overheating issues until the past week when it got HOT and he turned the a/c on. Any thoughts?

the starting issue sounds like the starter...hit it with a hammer the spedo issue is a 99 only problem( i have several 99s and they all have this issue) the earllier ones won't work Earlier (95-98) vehicle speed sensors have a two wires and the spedo cluster has two wires. the 99's have a single wire vehicle speed sensor and spedo. I am going to see if the 2000 up spedos will work a or at least some of the parts. Don't bother trying to mess with it i spent hours running extra grounds etc and nothing worked. Ill be posting something with in the next week. A side note- With all of mine only the spedo fails(tach is fine) so you might have a different issue. I use a obd II scanner to check the speed sensor and tach outputs from the computer.

the crank gear will be different too. swap it or the engine will continue to fart and backfire.

Also I think my gas mileage has decreased. Hard to tell since i have the 99 no spedo no-workie problem.

So I have this 99 OBW dual sunroof. Last fall I replaced the 2.5 with a low mileage 2.2-non egr(At the time the car was an automatic). It ran great, no issues. Over the winter I converted the car to a 5 speed.(full wiring harness/component swap). I also added the egr to the engine at the same time. Soooo the problem is that when I accelerate there is a slight jiggle/hesitation like when you have a bad sparkplug wire. The problem seems most prevalent between 2300-3100 rpm and is noticeable in all gears but more so in lower gears. It doesnt happen all the time and is less likely when engine is cold but it still does ti then too. I have put in new plugs( ngk irridium) three sets of wires (used but assumed good) and 3 different complete intake manifolds, injectors and all. NO DIFFERENCE. I had a 96 legacy 5sp that had the same issue but i sold it before I fixed it. Any thoughts????

This is how the story starts. My friend called me and said he was hearing a clicking noise from the front of car sometimes on acceleration. I told him it might be the CV joints but it was weird that they were making the clicking noise going in a straight line vs turning. I told him to bring it in over the weekend and we could swap out known good ones to see if it fixed the problem. Yesterday he called me and said that he was accelerating from a stop and he heard a loud pop and then a subsequent thunk-thunk. I thought the cv joint might have broken and he was hearing the shaft bounce around. The car is now in my shop all four wheels up in the air. The symptoms are: LOUD thunk about every 1/2 rotation of front. Feels like something binding up. I unhooked the front cv joints ( which looked/and felt ok) and put the car in drive/reverse and the noise is still there. My gut reaction is a bad front diff. I am going to drain gear oil to see if there are metal shavings etc. Anyone seen this? Are these front diffs known for failure? Thanks, Craig

the heated seat relay ( on outbacks) also runs the rear power outlet. 20amp fuse underdash to left of steering wheel in a fuse holder all bu its self. Thick blue wire that turns to red with yellow stripe.

So I don't know how many of you used to drive old aircooled VW. When you would see/ pass another person driving showing the peace sign or a healthy nod was the norm. I am trying to start this with my fellow subaru drivers here in the midwest. There aren't as many soobs here as the rockies or pacific northwest so seeing another outback,forester etc is a little few and far between. Sooooo its not going so hot. Not many are returning my gestures. The one that gets the least return is the blackpower fist thru the sunroof. LETS GIVE THE NEW VW PUNCH THING A RUN FOR ITS $ It starts grassroots

I love" tales from the swap"... I can't wait for the next installment... Does it work?... I love happy endings.

I think it from a 5peed too..........no egr. I think your intake is from a 2.5.....it has red fuel injectors. See if the bolt holes line up.

I would swap the harnesses...sensors, etc its waaay easier and every thing is stock.. if you can get the cars to columbus we could work something out...$...beer...funtimes

Yeah but either the manual module(legacy gt) was bad or not compatible with the outback sensors. So when in doubt use outback module. Oh there was another twist: I also tried a 98 outback manual module...it worked the worst of them all. 98 computer not forward compatable with 99 components. The wiring in a 99 slightly different...mainly the security system/keyless entry is standard and a different system(alpine)

OK here is some weird stuff: I converted a 99 gt 5-speed to an auto. The auto came from my 99 OBW limited dual moon roof which I converted to 5 speed. I swapped the harnesses, ecus, ignition switches and relays etc. There is one thing that people might not know: The front wheel sensors are different between Outbacks and legacys: the plugs are different Legacys=grey and Outbacks=orange I made adapters to go between the Legacy harness and Outback sensors When I started the GT the ABS light went out like it was supposed to but it came back on when i started driving ( it did this pre-swap) I didn't think much about it. So I then put my car (99 OBW) together and when I started mine the ABS light never went out. I pulled the codes and there were some weird ones: 43,64.... Someone suggested swapping the ABS modules ( which is real easy). Today I took the ABS module out of the 99 OBW and installed it in the GT. When I drove the car the ABS light stayed off and the ABS was working correctly(tested it on ice) conclusion:OBW auto ABS module works with Legacy wheel sensors I then installed the GTs module in the 99 OBW and the light stayed on conclusion:Legacy module is NOT compatible with the OB front wheel sensors. I then installed Legacy front wheel sensors in the OBW, tested again and the light turns off at start up but turned on when I drove conclusion: Legacy module is bad OR it is NOT compatible with OB rear sensors. OK heres the kicker........I installed a module from a 2001 OBW 5-speed and the ABS system works conclusion: Outback modules seem to be backward compatable to legacy parts and older years.

They won't fit aaaand they dont have egrs.

They must have had it at some point. If you have the whole spedo-head cluster out there is a place for traction control theres no bulb in it but its there.

This is most likely a caliper, caliper guide pin issue. When the new pads/ rotors were put on they had to return the pistons in the caliper to the "open" position. It possible that one of them is stuck or sticking. It could also be that the guide pins are stuck. Either way one of the brakes aren't functioning properly. What ever side its pulling to the opposite side is the non-functioning one. The brake light is most likely the float in the reservoir.

i saw you posted asking if anone had done this before... I've done it several times. Be gentle when you are drilling through into the combustion chamber, go slow. Use wd-40 when drilling and tapping helps it go smooth. Any other question feel free to ask..

Yeah thats what I thought too. The only thing is that I put the auto trans, wiring harness, ecu etc in the GT and didnt get any weird codes. Its ABS light was on before the swap.. I guess I might have to switch the modules.

Sooo I just finished the other half of the swaps i was doing. 99gt 5-speed into my auto 99 OBW limited, moon roofs etc. Three things: 1. my ABS light is on code 25 and 43. It wasn't on before 2. My CEL is on because I put a non-EGR 2.2 engine in. Is there a way to fool the computer into thinking the egr is there so the Light will turn off? 3. the shifter linkage seems too short 1st 3rd and 5th are waaay close to the radio. any thoughts? I didn't see any adjustment.

the EGR tap is a 16x1.5. If the engine doesn't have the EGR hole threaded you use a 9/16 drill bit to get the whole to the right size and a 9/32 is the hole size into the combustion chamber.

I put one on my girlfriends Forester. We keep the wires inside. Those converter boxes are notorious for getting corroded and shorting out the vehicle wiring. Thanks again for the airbag dx last night. Got to go to bed knowing all was good.