logic23

Does any one know the term of the subaru headgasket warranty? my buddy has a 2001 (purchased 8/22/01) that has 96,037 miles on it and its headgasket just blew. Wondering if its still under warranty.

count the teeth. Subaru sometimes has different part numbers for identical/interchangeable parts.

I have seen different flex plates but all the flywheels i've messed with are the same. If you are having it machined make sure they dont take the step out of it.

Has anyone figured out what is broken with the 99 speedos? Is it the circuit board, speedo motor, what? I have one from an earlier legacy and the plug has 3 pins (vs the 5 pin with dark green wire) one black wire one white. Can this one be wired in?

you cut what you can reach then finish the job with a chisel. You can do the whole thing with a chisel. it doesnt take that long the axle nut are pretty soft metal. keep grinding the chisel to a sharp point.

while you have it apart inspect the cam gears for chips or cracks. If any are found replace them.

i can get you the covers i have piles of them... been replacing the 2.5 dohc with the 2.2 sohc.

theres a guy on ebay who sells the kits for pretty cheap http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-2-5-Subaru-Legacy-Outback-DOHC-Belt-Water-Pump-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dcc6db45QQitemZ360186305349QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

could be the coil pack

the threads must have gotten damaged on install. Probably the nut. Split the nut with a die-grinder and chisel. Even if you get it to turn it will most likely just spin.

I need the wiring diagram for the powerwindows and lock on my 99 OBW. Couldn't find it with all-data.

its probably the clutch kit. the cheap ones they sell at autozone and advanced auto are junk. I've had the same thing happen. New clutch horrible chatter. It has to do with the springs in the clutch disk.

Its the hydraulic lifters in the heads. When the oil is cold they don't pump up correctly causing excessive valve lash. on 2.2 the lifters are in teh rocker arm and are easy to swap out.

Does anyone know the part number for the 96-98 outback duty C solenoid. The dealer I use sells a lot of VW and porsche parts they dont seem to be too familiar with the soob parts. Thanks, Craig

There seems to be a direct correlation between the fwd fuse and the torque bind. If the fwd fuse is in and the light is working then i can remove the fuse and no torque bind, no flashing a/t light.

The tail section and solenoid were both used. Both old and new display same symptoms: working sometimes with no pattern to when it stops working. The strange part is that the FWD light doesn't always come on. IF its not getting a signal from duty C solenoid will the light still come on? I'm guessing the fuse and the light are both connected to the trans computer and teh computer turns the light on and off. Customer is driving the car now with the FWD fuse in letting me know the conditions when it is on/off. I plan to pull the code next week. It still seems like a bad connection somewhere. bad computer.

Ok heres the update: I put the FWD fuse in and no light on the dash. I drove the car for a day or so and it came on at some point. When the light came on I took the fuse out and continued my drive in AWD...NO torque bind. continued to drive with no problem for the the next day or so. Then the torque bind/ flashing AT light came back. put FWD fuse in and no light on dash. Any thoughts? sounds like a loose connection or bad wire.

yeah there seems to be varying degrees of torquebind. One of my customers has it so bad it sounds like the rear end is coming apart. How does one check the trans codes? ill search other threads.

OK folk lets see if any one has dealt with this problem. I have a 97 OBW in my shop that has a supposed rebuilt transmission. When the car came in it had a slight torque bind problem. The a/t light also flashed as soon as you started the car then turned off after several flashes. I assumed the normal solenoid problem so I replaced the whole tail housing with a used one (dont know if it was good). Got it all put together and started the car: No light and no apparent bind. Drove for 20 min and started to notice a slight bind on real tight turns. Turned car off and restarted and the light flashed 16 times then went off. So the question is does the 16 flashes mean anything? Has anyone seen this problem when the car heats up? Any thoughts? Thanks y'all.

Does any one know where to get a scanner that will read the subaru abs trouble code? Is it through he obd II plug? Thanks

I see. The cal belt is no where close. Fed belt i have. I've been getting kits from a store on ebay (Mizumo Auto Parts) the kit is like $110. GMB pump, japanese pulleys and seals. I thought it was a good deal. Anyways thanks for the heads up... now i know.

OK I have a 2.2 engine that I'm resealing, replacing pulleys timing belt and water pump. It is out of a 97 impreza outback. So my question is does any one no for sure that a California emissions 2.2 has the same belt as federal emissions. I called the dealer and gave them the vin and they said it took belt 13028AA102. This belt is the federal emissions belt. When I took the engine apart it had a 13028AA150 which subaru says is CA emissions. I checked all the sources and from what I can tell they are the same belt with 211 teeth same width, etc. ANY THOUGHTS? I'm also tapping the head for the EGR I can post pics if anyone wants.

I dont think so... ill post the pics here when i have a min to upload to my sever.

yeah i was lazy and didn't make a new album. its the last two pics

Hey "the group", I took some pics of a timing belt/ cam switch job. heres the link to the pics http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=66521&l=5b48c08a6b&id=100000515483785 This way you can hold the cam gears so that you can torque them correctly. This is the old timing belt. MAKE SURE YOUR CRANK GEAR'S TIMING MARK IS LINED UP. When the crank gears mark is up the pistons are 1/2 the way down so that the pistons can't hit the valves if the cam turns too far.