logic23

I am in the middle of such a swap. There are transmission charts that outline the years and the final drive ratios. There seem to be two schools of thought: 1. change trans and rig the wiring for the manual trans (reverse switch etc) 2. change the wiring harness so that everything works stock. I chose the second. It doesnt take long to get the dash out (1-1.5 hours) Then another hour or so to pull the harness. The harness plugs into the fuse box dash and vehicle wiring harness. It also makes switching the the pedal cluster waaaay easy. The ignition switches are different: you can either switch them or rig the lock out so the key will come out. As far as the computers i've read that people who do the swap and don't switch then get weird coded pertaining to the auto portion of the ecu. My OBW that im putting the 5 speed in is completely apart now....i'll be taking pic of the reassembly. I'll try and get them posted when Im done. The swap takes some patience.. I did it in about a week and a half, looooong days.

Cool....I'll check that too. The abs light was on before the swap so im too worried about it. Kinda of a project in itself.

cleaned up the front ring...the rear one was fine just crap stuck to the sensor. sprayed it off with air. Drove car. now i have a 22-23-26. whats a code 23?

the rings are ruuuuuuuuuuuusty. The sensors look good. taking a wire wheel to the rigs to see if that helps. Cross fingers. This car came from cleveland where they salt the roads like crazy and there is snow like every day of winter.

The ABS light comes on after the car goes about 10 feet...I pulled the codes and got a 22 and 26. My diagram says rf and rr sensors. I checked the ohms and both front sensors are 1061-67. What next the rings?

Thanks for the article find. What you do to get the codes: 1. go to the black diag. connector under the dash to the right side. This is the same plug to get TCU and ABS codes. 2 connect one of the black ground wires to the blue wire ( upper left side) 3. turn ignition on> code will flash> 12=ok..no codes Sooooo I did this and NOTHING. Hmmmm I says to myself. Bad connection between the computer and the dash.... check connector. Plugged in but little green tab still out. Pushed it in and now everything is OK.. Thanks a TON y'all So It took one week to do the swap.... there are a lot of small differences between auto and stick then throw outback vs legacy in there. Even the carrier bearing on the driveshaft is different. The legacy one holds the shaft further up in the tunnel.

I just looked on my OBW (which is still apart) theres only one wire going to the dash: the passengers side airbag unit. Theres also another that snakes throught the center console that goes to the steering wheel (drivers air bag) Checked powers to the plug at the air bag module...two powers present..

whats is lookk like? I had the whole dash out. I didn't notice any sensors in there. Would it look llike the ones out by the bumpers?

I swapped the wiring harness, ecu, tcu, cruise control ecu and airbag control unit. Everything that went with the OBW auto went into the GT

no light wasn't on before yes its the airbag light yes i took it out....I swapped it from the car that the trans came out of (99 OBW)

I just finished my 99 GT 5-speed to auto swap. Every thing is running/operating fine except the airbag light doesnt turn off... any thoughts.

new bracket fixed the issue. Taller bracket for legacys.

The metal ones ive only seen on outbacks. The metal and plastic are different lengths, about an inch different. I think the metal one is longer.

OK heres the latest chapter in my transmission swap. 99 OBW auto into a 99 leg GT 5 speed. I am also putting the 5 speed into my 99 obw. To do the swap I decided to pull the dash and swap the harnesses along with all the relays etc. Basically anything that had to do with the auto went into the GT: ECU, harness, ABS ECU, Ignition switch, The OBW has heated seats and windshield so i took those wires out of the auto harness and added them to the 5 speed harness(from end to end with the factory connectors) I finally got the GT put back together far enough that I felt it was time to check the wiring. The only things that I dont have hooked up are the O2 sensors and the MAF sensor. All grounds are hooked up on both fenders. So my problem is that when I turn the key on I get no AT oil light or Check engine light, no fuel pump running for 5 sec. The ABS light comes on and turns off and all the shifter locking unlocking mech. work. Then when I turn the key off the power to the headlight stays on and the ABS light and brake light( if its pulled) are on real faint. Heres another gem. If I put the car in reverse everything turns off like its supposed to. One other thing is that the wiring for the shifter is part of the body harness. It hooks up on the passenger kick panel to two plugs a black multi plug and a white one. Instead of hacking up the harness in the OBW I went to the junkyard and cut that part out of another auto then added it to the GTs body harness. ANY THOUGHTS. I know Its a lot to follow. Im going to tear into the wiring diagrams and see if i can track down the powers, grounds etc... any help would be much appreciated. Thanks,Craig

Im swapping transmissions from a 99 outback auto and a 99 legacy gt 5 speed: outback auto into the GT and Gt 5 speed into the auto. Outbacks and legacys transmission sit at two different levels---legacy sits higher in the tunnel. There are two types of transmission mounts: A.two separate mounts B. one solid mount with both sides attached. I originally thought that the legacys had style A and outbacks style B. Went to junkyard today to get the right bracket/mount combo and found a 98 legacy with style B. The only difference is in the mount: the legacy mount is taller. Going to install today and see if it levels out the transmission/engine. The front section of the drive shafts ( auto vs 5 speed) are different lengths too rear sections are same.

So this question is related to the transmission swaps I'm doing. The question pertains to the mount on an automatic... is it the same as an outback or does it use the other style(two separate mounts). Thanks

Your oil leak is probably the power steering pump...

The wires are the same on both cars: pink and light blue/white on one side that connects to white and black and black and white that connects to white and black( the black wire connects to the white wire and vice versa ...weird) My solution is was to make adapter plugs. The difference in plugs seem to be between legacys and outbacks not manual and auto. So I took both sides of the plug from an outback and a legacy and splice a legacy mail end to outback female and viola.... the adapter. This is a temp fix just to see what is compatible. I'll release the pins from the plugs and switch for the final fix or switch sensors. we'll see.

nothing? no thoughts?

OK so i am in the middle/over the hump of swapping a 5 speed into my 99 obw limited dual moon roof. The trans is out of a 99 gt. To make things more complicated i am putting my auto into the GT ( The lady who I am selling it to can't drive a stick). I pulled the dashes etc. and swapped the whole wiring harnesses adding what was missing to the 5 speed ( heated seats, windshield deicer). I installed the finished auto harness into the GT and started plugging everything up. All good until I get to the front wheel sensors and the plugs are different My questions are: 1. Can i just change the plugs 2. will the GT's abs module work with the auto wiring harness, computer etc? 3. Is there anything else im missing? Just so no one asks: I also switched the ignitions, added the wiring to the gt for the light, shift lock and neutral safety switch (wiring pulled from a 96 legacy) and swapped the airbag ecu's.

Also check the crank timing gear and drivers side cam pulley to make sure they're the same. There are two syles.

One tick i use is a pneumatic air chisel. You can chisel the old one counter clock wise to loosen it then tighten the new one up as far as you can then hit with the chisel and it will never come loose....lock tight is another option if you are worried about it coming loose

If I end up doing the headgaskets do you also replace the headbolts? The parts guy at the dealership said they dont replace them.

So i finally pulled the codes and got the dreaded 24... replaced the tailsection with a known good one and FIXED... woo hoo. thanks y'all

Does the warranty extend to a second owner? I think he's the second owner. He has all the service documents from when the car was new.