logic23

they will most likely come out with the studs. Take the stud/nut combo>put in vice and heat the nut until red hot ( oxy/acy torch) then spin the nut off. If you dont have a torch then you can cut the nut on one side with a sawsall then spin it off with the help of a chisel. clean up threads, add anti seize, reinstall, smile

Its real nice... you use a gearwrench and you can move the trans up and down with more precision than a jack. You can work the engine hoist with your right hand and the gearwrench with your left... I started using it on the manuals. they dont have much surface area to jack from the bottom.

oh yeah I forgot I have a 96 wagon in my shop with a good driveshaft.

it is a smaller 2.5 than the 97-99 dohc

Ok I have a customer with a 99 OBW 2.5, 5speed,130,000. The issue is that when the car warms up it starts to miss(real bad). It feels like a bad wire. The only code is a cam positon sensor code. replaced the sensor 2x with good used ones. Still missing. Any thoughts? Thanks,Craig

Don't jack up your transmission by putting the jack under the pan. I have repaired three transmissions in the past month that were damaged by a jack. If installing an engine hoist the transmission from the top. A 2x4 sitting on the strut towers with a long piece of 1/2 all thread bent into a hook on one end does the job. Loop the hook through the transmission bracket ( where the upper mount attaches) On the other you can loosen/tighten the bolt on the all thread to raise/lower the trans.

I have a bunch of those assemblies: hoses and the T. I can ship you one for cheap.

I also do tons of the 2.5>2.2 swaps. Nice looking wagon.

Yeah Ive seen the remove the driveshaft trick. I run a subaru repair shop in columbus if you want to swing by sometime. Have lots of parts etc for outbacks. Know where others are at local yards.

one way to get the cam bolt off is to wrap an old timing belt around the cam sprocket and loop it over the crank sprocket. The belt will tighten up and keep the cam from turning. This can be used for install too.

wonder what the conclusion to this story is. i have a similar issue on a 99 obw, codes p0748 and p1705.

yeah their are two VSS. The one by the pass axle is the one that the computer reads for the spedo. It must have some crossover to the running of the car because if it fails the car will idle funny from time to time and throw a CEL code. The rear VSS ( which looks like an ABS sensor) is in the tailhousing (top pass side) and is held in with a 12mm bolt. It should pull right out (its plastic) i think you have to cut the wiring to it because there is no break or the plug is internal which means dropping the pan etc.

your engine seems to be waaaay to rich. you have to rev it to clear the excess fuel...this is tripping the p420. It could be the temp sensor (2 wire one) , a bad fuel injector, throttle position sensor... i would go after the sensors on the manifold. If there is a donor car take the whole manifold off and put it on your car. it takes about 30-40 min to do the swap the first time. The egr metal pipe is sometimes hard to get broken loose. You'll also need intake gaskets. When I have cars come in the shop with these symptoms the whols manifold swap is the fastest/cheapest way to narrow the issue. If it still runs poorly then you've eliminated a lot of variables in one shot.

Yeah I lean more toward the wires since it previously had missfire issues on humid days. I would stay away from spraying the maf. It is an expensive part to replace if you mess it up. Just do one change at a time. wires and o2 sensor would be at the top of the list followed by fuel injector cleaner. Bad gas could also be an issue.

With both of your cars it seems like the speed sensor on the tailhousing of the transmission ( speed sensor 1) is your issue. go to the junkyard and take one off....they don't fail that often ( i've never done one) so you have good odds that it will work.

napa's parts come from the same China that autozone and advanced come from. Unless you pay big $ for your rotors they all are cheap Chinese. with auto zone you can take them back and get new ones. The job is easy enough to do that replacing them if they warp is no big deal. Most of the warpage ive seen is from improper installation. The big one is the pads dragging in the slots. This causes a hot spot=warpage. Like i wrote earlier sand/file/grind the ears until they slide with no resistance.

I had a customer do this ( rock in a snow bank)and messed up the ring and pinion... I keep it to show customers what not to do . could also be a tire with a broken belt. Jack it up, spin the tire and look for a bump in the tire. Oh winter fun times.

yeah the trick is to not knock a ton of dirt into the tank and to not knock the strainer off when putting the new pump in. Oh yeah and to not get to high off the fumes. While on the topic of fuel pumps: Carquest autoparts (which also owns worldpac) is selling fuel pump assemblies (pump/filter/ gas gauge the whole nine yards) for pretty low prices. They are bosch pumps. Put one in a friends nissan truck and another in a ford . Not all my customers drive subarus. I haven't checked to see if they sell them for legacys.... will keep the forum posted.

I have a bucket full of leakers...almost as many as autozone alternators:grin: I'll try and rebuild one of the ones i have and see how it goes... if it works ill do and assembly line rebuild and throw some of yours in there (davebugs).

hey if you want i can help you out/ talk you through the test procedures etc. I have had a couple ecu issues related to shorts in the wiring and a bad battery. So thats probably your issue. As far as I know any ecu for an auto (95-98) will work. email me and ill give you my cell. also if you want to email me the wiring diagram then we will be looking at the same picture..

To tell if a coil is getting the correct signal to fire you can (most of the time) check the fuel injectors for pulse. They get their signal from the same sensor (crank sensor) 9 out of 10 times if you have pulse at the fuel injector plug them the coil is getting the signal to fire. To test pulse at an injector you unplug one injector ( it doesn't matter which one) and use a test light touch the pointy end to one of the wires and the alligator clip + a small wire to the other. have some one crank the car and the test light should pulse. if not you have bad wiring or a bad crank sensor or worst case a bad computer ( the computer is what grounds the coil and fule injectors to get them to fire)

Do the brakes yourself. You can get better/cheaper brake parts ( ceramic pads) and you'll know they are done right. Subarus are some of the easiest cars to work on. If you are game i can talk you through every step. As far as shops go the dealer is just as bad as the shady tree mechanics. The MOST messed up mechanic work I have ever seen (mulitple times) has come out of subaru dealers.

same part. you can get them at autozone(or a store like this) There are also ceramic brakes available for the outback. make sure to check the slides and calipers any seizing(i see frozen slides all the time) also make sure the pads slide easily in the groove on the caliper bracket. If they dont i clean up the groove and if that doesn't work I file the areas on the pad where they make conntact( a lot of pads have rough casting that need smoothed out). Good luck

yep the 99 spedo is a one year only.... the issue is a bad chip or loose connection on the board...new spedo=dealer only=expensive. I drive my 99 using the tach..

All the parts are the same except the parts right next to the engine. The 2.5 is a dual port so that part of the heat shield is bigger. Wear a respirator there is some nasty asbestos type stuff between shield and pipe. If yours is rattling just run a couple sheetmetal screws in it. It takes 10 min and its an almost permanent fix. $5 worth of self tapping sheet metal screws....done