incognito

I think you have to replace the whole draglink and tierod assemblies since the boot was shredded. Thats what you have to do if you "shred" a cv boot.

Man, I really hate "that" tow.

I second svxpert

Sorry-- Forgot your wagon was majority offroad. Its your choice though anyway. I had to make the choice with my wagon, it stays on.

SubaruJunkie-- http://pub110.ezboard.com/fultimatesubarumessageboardsgeneralsubarudiscussion.showMessage?topicID=22874.topic This is a forum related to the sway bar topic. It seems to be a real hazard at 35+ mph. Be careful

I was wondering if putting an ea81 alternator in an XT was cool? I have a friend who's XT's alternator went out, and I just happen to have a spare EA81 alternator. Can I help him out or no? Thx

My ONLY advice.. Dont pull a "Miles Fox"

meep your correct on that one, i tested the plug wires. #4 was a bad wire. as for you kevinSUBARU.. the reason i mentioned OIL was because camosuba mentioned "tapping". The things you listed were REGULAR maintenence items.

BTW: where is the fuel filter(s)?

nice photoshop of a civic

nice photoshop of a civic

Whoops, missed the part that his was automatic. Mines a 5 spd.

So let me get this straight... Towing with car off = bad Towing with car on = doesnt matter? (after all, i have done this, with a broken viscous coupler)

Your not getting it. It has nothing to do with the oil. I already know its misfiring, as I said above.

1. Yes its SOHC 2.5 EJ251. 2. a. Airfilter is a hiflow AEM airflow... clean. b. There has been loud tapping since ive owned the car, oil changes every 1,500 miles. Fuel filter has never been changed to my knowledge. Vehicle is at approx 80,3XX .. miles. 3. No I havent been pressurewashing my engine. I hand clean it with degreaser. 4. Heres how it goes.... I had just started the car, no radio volume, car door wide open... I start my car, it runs up to about 1,500 RPMS for about 4 seconds. Then it gets very erratic. RPM's stay the same, except when lowering RPMS during the warm up cycle. Sounds like on each stroke, one piston fires, one doesnt. (kind of like a burr-PUH burr -PUH on each stroke, the puh is definately a misfire. ) Now when I start my car, it runs up to that 1,500 RPMS or so, then when it reaches it the erratic idle comes back. My guess is timing slipped, or i have a dead side? maybe even a cam sensor. This is definately something that I'm not going to be involved in fixing. Just mah money Should I spend the money to have a dianastics test done? OH BY THE WAY, MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS IN THE "FLASHING" OR (DESTRESS) MODE.

Well, this isnt the perfect example, but its the truth... I used to sit infront of peoples houses (at random) and smoke weed, they (people in the house, and the police) could see that I had on my parking lights, and that i was quiet, and that I could be waiting for someone. Works every time! (so far)

Well @ 80,000 miles, my timing has finally slipped I went out one morning to start my car and just as it fired up, runnin in its warm up cycle, about 4 seconds into it, blah bluh blah bluh blah bluh blah bluh ONE SERIOUS IRRATIC IDLE! I'll keep posted on this, I'm not completely sure on what it is but my guess is timing. any advice?

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