incognito

Kelly are you even a beer drinker? Anyway, I may have to get in on this.. Kelly, you can email me @ kronbach09@hotmail.com

I got to thinkin: Last time when I lifted my wagon, I had the rear drum brake setup and my braking became pretty bad when I went to 235/75R15 tires. (Brakes almost went to the floor trying to stop) Has anyone gone with rear-disk setup for their lifted subarus AFTER they lifted their vehicles to notice a difference in braking power? If so, lets hear your opinions on how noticable the change was.. Thanks.

i think possibly having a custom made driveline with ujoints might be an idea? i'd help in the R & R process. Just an idea?

Not really northwet.. The reason the o2 sensor is before the catalytic converter is to maximize catalytic converter efficiency by detecting how much oxygen is before the cat so that the computer can maintain a 14.7:1 stoichiometric ratio to maximize catalytic converter efficiency.. There are sensors after the catalytic converter to detect converter efficiency..

I got mine for free.. I took an injector cap off another EA82 and modified it to fit the MAF.. (very simple actually)..

P.K. - Thanks for everything youve done. J.

(pics will come later) (and ill update later as well) Objective: Make MAF adapter for cheap, being able to use a high-flow filter of choice AND! be able to take it off and hook it back up to the stock airbox (if you needed to sell your soob or something like that.. (pass visual inspection on an I/M test, etc.) Reason Why I chose the Injector Cap: Simple, its the same size hole for the stock subaru intake.. and, for those of you that dont know how to weld, you wont have to weld 2 things together (round peice to square plate).. its already done for you. Parts involved... 1.Stock MAF 2.Injector Cap from throttle body (top peice that intake hooks onto the motor), I'm not sure of the price on these if you dont have one, I had a spare engine with one of these 3.Drill and Drill Bit(s) (5/32" pilot hole, 13/64" (size of injector cap holes)) (i drilled a pilot hole to make sure my holes would clear) they did on the first two so i didnt drill pilot holes on the last 2. 4. Longer Screws and Nuts to fit - since the injector caps "nuts" are on a non-removable plate, you will need to get nuts to fit the stock screws (keep these screws as reference).. you will need about 1/4" - 3/8" longer screws to mount the Injector Cap What you gotta do! First!!! Take 2 seconds to take the dang MAF out of the housing so you dont accidentally mess it up or something.. Basically, the Injector Cap Plate is BEARLY gonna fit to the MAF Plate.. Your gonna have to work it right to where you get approx 1/16" inch (i know im cuttin it short, but i havent gotten to a gasket idea yet, so bare with me).. Anyway, you'll have only about 1/16" inch each way to play with... once you get it to where you have no spaces or gaps between the two, mark around the edge with a pen or something, and then clamp it together... using channel locks or whatever (i didnt have a vice) Drill through the MAF using the injector plate as a guide.. (i know it comes very close, but once you drill through, you'll be just fine) (it was so close i used the 5/32" inch drill bit first to check the clearance on the backside) Then, You take it apart, this is where you have to cut the center section out of the injector cap plate.. use a hacksaw blade or something, and do it by hand, then dremel it smooth on the inside... This is where you'll need the 1/4" to 3/8" longer screws with nuts to fit to hook the two together.. if you try to use the stock screws that held the injector cap to the throttle body, youll quickly find out why they wont work. Like I mentioned before, I havent gotten to the gasket part yet, it might not be a bad idea to put a gasket inbetween the injector plate and MAF since there is only about 1/16" of freeplay.. Once I get this completely done, I'll have pics posted of the whole process.. I hope you've gotten as excited about this MAF adapter as i did/am.. Thanks for reading, Incognito. P.S. - if i missed anything, dont hesistate to say something, ill correct as needed, thanks.

(pics will come later) (and ill update later as well) Objective: Make MAF adapter for cheap, being able to use a high-flow filter of choice AND! be able to take it off and hook it back up to the stock airbox (if you needed to sell your soob or something like that.. (pass visual inspection on an I/M test, etc.) Reason Why I chose the Injector Cap: Simple, its the same size hole for the stock subaru intake.. and, for those of you that dont know how to weld, you wont have to weld 2 things together (round peice to square plate).. its already done for you. Parts involved... 1.Stock MAF 2.Injector Cap from throttle body (top peice that intake hooks onto the motor), I'm not sure of the price on these if you dont have one, I had a spare engine with one of these 3.Drill and Drill Bit(s) (5/32" pilot hole, 13/64" (size of injector cap holes)) (i drilled a pilot hole to make sure my holes would clear) they did on the first two so i didnt drill pilot holes on the last 2. 4. Longer Screws and Nuts to fit - since the injector caps "nuts" are on a non-removable plate, you will need to get nuts to fit the stock screws (keep these screws as reference).. you will need about 1/4" - 3/8" longer screws to mount the Injector Cap What you gotta do! First!!! Take 2 seconds to take the dang MAF out of the housing so you dont accidentally mess it up or something.. Basically, the Injector Cap Plate is BEARLY gonna fit to the MAF Plate.. Your gonna have to work it right to where you get approx 1/16" inch (i know im cuttin it short, but i havent gotten to a gasket idea yet, so bare with me).. Anyway, you'll have only about 1/16" inch each way to play with... once you get it to where you have no spaces or gaps between the two, mark around the edge with a pen or something, and then clamp it together... using channel locks or whatever (i didnt have a vice) Drill through the MAF using the injector plate as a guide.. (i know it comes very close, but once you drill through, you'll be just fine) (it was so close i used the 5/32" inch drill bit first to check the clearance on the backside) Then, You take it apart, this is where you have to cut the center section out of the injector cap plate.. use a hacksaw blade or something, and do it by hand, then dremel it smooth on the inside... This is where you'll need the 1/4" to 3/8" longer screws with nuts to fit to hook the two together.. if you try to use the stock screws that held the injector cap to the throttle body, youll quickly find out why they wont work. Like I mentioned before, I havent gotten to the gasket part yet, it might not be a bad idea to put a gasket inbetween the injector plate and MAF since there is only about 1/16" of freeplay.. Once I get this completely done, I'll have pics posted of the whole process.. I hope you've gotten as excited about this MAF adapter as i did/am.. Thanks for reading, Incognito. P.S. - if you find something that i forgot to mention, dont hesitate to ask. Thanks again.

Yeah, I must admit its a drag to lose subarus.. I lost 3 in a year. That only made me get my 4th soob Glad your aiight though.

Lefty, are you considering doing this because you have kind of a sissy heater? Let me know if it helps with your heater, Ive been contemplating doing the same but dont want to spend the extra $$ if its not going to do anything. Thanks

I know how to change oil, Ive been busy working 15 hour days to even have time to do it. I changed my oil last night, gauge is still showing about the same reading as before.

Could possibly be a head gasket ready to go?

pretty simple in the title.. Whats the part number for the accel distributor (not the ign coil) does it come with cap and rotor as well? thx.

Ok, i just got done changing disty cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and did a coil swap to the accel coil... much better.. no more feeling like i have a stroker under the hood.

Ill take a stab at this: 4High = 1:1 ratio 4Low = 1.4:1 ratio

Theres a big subaru yard somewhere. That secret... is mine.

I was also lookin into this and heres what i found out.. theres also a 8140HV that will work, specs: Primary Resist: 0.6 ohms Secondary Resist: 9.5K ohms Turn Ratio: 123:1 Maximum Voltage: 45,000k volts As far as the 8140C and 8140 their specs are: Primary Resist: 1.2 ohms Secondary Resist: 8.9k ohms Turn Ratio: 100:1 Maximum Voltage: 42,000k volts Now I'm confused on which one to go with... any suggestions?

thanks.

bump

i wonder if you could custom fit airbags ontop of the strut tower.. this could be a start?

I'm not sure if I want to meet up. I'll consider it.

hey i like this guy already lol

Well, i was flippin through my spec book and noticed that the oil pressure in an EA82 is supposed to be 57 psi @ 2500 RPM. Now, I'm runnin about 40-42 psi @ 2500 RPMs, havent changed the oil since i bought this car, but i was wondering, if an oilchange doesnt bring the pressure back up is it new oilpump time? By the way, when i first start the car, the oil pressure reads about 70 psi, then after it warms up it goes down to 40-45 psi... could this be an oilchange issue? I personally have never seen this in an EA82 before regardless of oil condition. Thanks for input, Incognito. P.S. - By the way, someone told me when they switched out their oilpump that they had never felt so much power out of an EA82.. is this jive b.s. or will switchin out an oilpump do that? Thanks again.

Just wondering what you've done on your EA82 as far as a custom Air Cleaner so i can gather some ideas... Post pics here, thanks.

Oh, i forgot to add: I'm certified in inspection and maintenance of emissions equipment.