WoodsWagon

All motor parts are there. Manifold is there, cat isn't. Will tag for saveing. 2 justy's there, one EFI, one carb. both 2wd. Will tag EFI one. Carb is 5spd. Didn't check EFI one for tranny style. Prices are cheap.

3 valve EFI justy. Need any motor parts? I need to know by 7 AM tomorrow to spray SAVE on the windshield.

Center console: 5 screws. One on each side at the front under the dash (by your foot) One in the center of the cubby hole infront of the shifter, and 2 under the coin tray under the handbrake lever. Make sure they're all tight. Steering wheel. Read your owners manual. There's two levers, one a release to top, the one on the side, and one for adjusting the lower height, which is a lever underneath the steering column. Rear belts: One of the belt latches has CENTER or an arrow on it. Only the center lap belt will work on it. The other two only work with their respective latches. Horn Button. Turn the wheel so it's upside down. you will see 2 holes in the underside of it. Slip a phillips screwdriver in and loosen the screws. The Pad and button assembly should be loose, and you can jiggle it off the wheel. Do your hazard lights work? They share the same fuse as the horn.

I'm all for saying screw it to the technical tests. Take a spare plug and hook it to one of the wires to test for spark. Who cares about compression when you don't have spark? pop the distributor cap off, and stick a screwdiver across the starter soleniod. See if the rotor turns with the engine. If you have spark, dump a bit of gas down the throat. It should fire. If it doesn't, pull one of the hoses off of the fuel filter and see if it has gas there. Quick easy tests for teh win.

So I went down and gave the adjustable ones another look. The springs are rusted to hel, and the strut caps are toast, but the struts themselves aren't too bad. I'll put some Kroil on the adjustment threads, rip the caps and springs off, and see what I can do. Mabe with the adjusters and RX springs, I could bring it back up. Figures it takes the board to make me look at my own parts... Glad I posted.

Please don't use starting fluid. Ether detonates really bad and I've shattered a piston using it before. It was in an old chrysler marine inline 6 flathead.... hard to find replacement for and it was done. If the fuel pump cycles with the green connectors together, that means that the motor is fine, the relay is fine, and the PCM is fine. When you first turn the key to the on position, the pump will cyle on for a few seconds, then shut off if the engine isn't turning. The PCM tells if the engine is turning by looking for a signal from the distributor's electronics. If the drivers side belt is broken, or the cam pully is spinning on the cam, or the distributor is broken, either shaft, gear, or electronics, the PCM won't get the signal that the engine is turning and shuts off the pump.Every time you turn the key off and then on agian, the pump should cycle. It won't keep running unless the engine is turning. Are you getting fuel pressure at the filter connection?

Are EA81 and EA82 front springs the same? I'm not sure what fits a brat will fit my car. I have a set of the adjustable struts out of an 86, but they're so rusty I wouldn't trust them. I'm still thinking about the legacy springs. The legacy's are a heavier car, so they might have stiffer springs.

How far did you slide across the tar before you hit the gaurdrail? Sliding tires can burn off in wierd ways. Looks like that one was pretty bald to start with.

Thrown some down the throat yet? It only takes 5 minutes and a flat head screwdriver.

My EA82-body wagon is sagging in the front. I have an EJ22 + 140# of winch, bumper and skidplate on the front. If anyone has experimented with other stronger springs, I want to hear about it. RX springs are supposedy stiffer, and raise a stock one 1". I'm not stock weight, but would they be enough to bring it back to stock height? Would first gen legacy springs fit? I think I need 1.5-2" of height back. The wagon has a deffinate rake forwards.

YES!! That's awesome. It totally describes the ownership experience of an older subaru. I've showed up at school after running late working on my car and filthy. Everyone understands, and is cool with it because they all like the car.

For future referance, they're called "universal joints" Might make it easier later.

RTR: Don't take any criticism's too hard. People who put loads of time into their cars to keep them alive get distressed when the cars are wantonly destroyed. My view is that no car should drive it's self to the junkyard, if it did, potential was wasted. I do a sanctioned form of demolition derby with my car. It's called Offroading Rage that wagon till it's heads melt! Are you alowed to use 4x4 in the derby? A lot of them ban that.

Behind strut tower on SPFI Green single pins. Pour some gas down the throttle body, not too much, then throw the boot back on and crank it. Easy test.

Wiring would be doable, but you still have the age old problem of swapping a turbo engine into a car that didn't have one origionaly. Exhaust would have to be custom, wiring modified, and a lot of effort put in. I would do it, but I also have no problem modifying the snots out of my car. Yes, you could do it. But $$$ and lots of downtime would be involved. Why not run the legacy ss that you're getting the engine from?

It's really easy to screw up the seals putting them on. I did. It's easiest to do out of the car, but if you can't pull it, you can make an air chuck out of an old spark plug. Pull the valve cover and the rockers, then make a fork lever to push the valve springs down and pull the retainers. It will be tight working, and a PITA, but it could be done. I'm going to pull mine out to do it.

The SPFI pump will keep up if it is in good shape. I made it out to wyoming (2.4k miles) on one that was growling. It would run out of juice when passing someone, but if you punched in the clutch for a moment, the pressure would build and you could complete the pass. I'm now using an inline pump out of a ford F150. I needed to make up an adapter to fit from the big line coming out of the tank to the small line going into the pump, but it works awesome.

If you put the EJ22 heads on the EJ25 block, will the exhaust manifold and intake manifold bolt up to the heads? Only the cylinder block would be changed.

I got raped. I paid like 75 bucks a side for bearings and seals... That sucks. Use the old bearings to pound in the new ones. It greatly reduces the risk of sending the punch into the bearing cage. Just place the bearing ontop of the new one and tap around with a hammer. Use a screwdriver to pop the old bearing back out after you're finnished pushing the new one in.

The car was pretty smashed up, but I think it was one of the newer ones with the squarer headights, mabe 2001? Only the cover had cooling fins.

I'm pondering throwing a 2.5 shortblock into my car for the extra power. I already done the 2.2 swap into the loyale, so using the 2.5 shortblock with the EJ22 heads on it would be easy. 10:1 comp = high octane gas= $$$ But the extra torque.... I'm torn.

I knew I saved those doors for a reason! Now my folks will stop laughing at me. If we find a way to get the body up to Lander, I could probably talk my uncle into letting it sit till summer. Any way you could leave the suspension under it so I could throw an engine and tranny in it and drive it home? I can bring doors, motor, tranny, across country, but suspension... Might not fit inside the wagon.

It looked like a normal diff, but the aluminum cover had finns like a heatsink running vertically. No sticker, and I couldn't jack the car up to spin the wheels.

What time are you flying in? I go to school in nashua, so I could rip up to manchester and pick you up. I get out of school round 5ish, 25mins to the airport. It would be in a lifted and EJ22'd Loyale wagon.

Don't ditch the body, i may be interested. Your version of rust and mine are verry different. I'll load up some pics of real 3-door rust tommorow evening.