WoodsWagon

"(or with the VC style it will move, but *slowly* - undrivably slow). AWD will not work if any single wheel loses traction completely (broken CV is equivelent). " Yes it will. Next time you have a junk subi AWD, pull the driveshaft to the back. Put it in first, it will barely move, but stay on the gas. It will move more and more and finally the center will lock.... permanently. You'd be a moron to do it, but hey. Also see: towing with one set of wheels on ground, driveshaft in. The center diff turns to charcoal and locks. It's a 1995 outback. Not yet a winter beater. Why not do preventative maintenence and do the minimum to protect the joint? I think any of us can agree an aftermarket split boot is better than no boot. "EJ22 engine swapped into your loyale, so the axles and CV's are seeing more than %50 more power than the car came with stock? also, do you drive off road with a lifted vehicle?" Yes... But the axel is an OEM one out of a 1986 3-door with 93k miles. The boot ripped somewhere on the way home from Wyoming, between Ohio and home and the joint seized coming into albany NY. Seized and roasting, it melted what remained of the boot. 50% over power doesn't affect highway driving. I repacked the joint with wheel bearing grease and forced the thing back on the highway. The violent shaking backed down as the joint freed up again. Pulled another 500 miles out of it before it broke... going into second on the street.

WHy not rip into it yourself? Replacing bearings on these engines isn't that bad. I'll have to look if you can do the connecting rods without splitting the block. You can drop the sump with the block in the car. Use a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension, there are holes drilled in the crossmember so that you can reach up and get the sump bolts by the flywheel end of the engine. You might be able to replace just that one bearing, mabe it spun and blocked it's oil inlet. If your lucky, the crank shaft journal isn't destroyed, so you could throw another bearing in and call it good for another 10k miles.

Keep it running! I need a ride in it this coming summer.

Do you have a pic of it back on it's wheels?

Costumes and all or can I just chill in the corner like I normally do?

I happen to be running RWD right now on my loyale because of a torn CV boot. Less than 1,000 miles between boot rip and joint blowing apart. The boot is there for a reason. The timing belt tensioners and wheel bearings all have grease seals on them. The CV joints have boots as grease seals. If you have ever torn a boot on a good CV, the amount of grease that gets flung over everything is impressive. All that grease was being kept in there for a reason. You break a CV on a manual AWD subie, the tranny will die if you drive it. Not a scare story, the truth. If you drive a subie with no oil in the engine, it will die. It's not a fantastic stretch.

Split boots leak the grease out, so plan on repacking them every couple of months. I'd put one on, just because it helps keep mud out of the joint. No sense risking breaking one on an AWD car where the center diff will eat it's self if you do.

Damn, if I had known that the EA82 that came in it was the best frickin engine in the world, I should have never bothered to spend the months swapping in the EJ22. EA82's SUCK! No matter how much you worship them, they still are low powered, doggy, 2 valve slowpokes. "Oh", you say, "But I can mod an EA82 to match your EJ22". The NA EJ22 is turning more horses than the factory EA82 turbo. If you want simplicity, get an EA81. If you want power and reliability, get an EJ22. Don't bother with those ugly middle years. The EA82 body is great. The engine bites. I know have a nicely built body with the engine that it should have come with. The car moves. It has way more power than any of your 2wd wonder EA82 subarus would dream of. I can play and hang with most of the modern cars now, something that was impossible before. Yeah, if I got the car rolling, I could get it to 97mph downhill and blow out the header gaskets doing it.. or I could do that on the flat with no ill effects with the EJ22. When I replace my halfshaft and my driveshaft, I'll throw my stock tires on it and take it to the dragway. It wont own any top fuel cars, but it will be on par with any other stock compact from the late 90's WHICH IS A LOT MORE THAN CAN BE SAID ABOUT AN EA82 EQUIPPED ONE. How many of us EJ22 swappers have been quietly proud when the car pulls itsself over a pass without haveing to shift to 3rd? The confidence that, yes, i can pass that semi if I need to, and I don't need a run to do it either..

Figured there should be a thread outlining just why we spend the time to swap in EJ22's. My car: Loyale wagon, D/R 5spd. 225/75r15 tires. Holds 80mph on highway anywhere without complaint at less than half throttle. Has torque to climb over anything I want it to. Does 170' RWD burnout. Holds with 2005 chipped Duramax on power level 5 through 3rd gear. Holeshot's nearly anything at stoplights. Returns 24mpg with all this kind of driving.

MAF will read more airflow, PCM will inject more fuel. It will be fine.

I've got to get pictures... I built a massive skidplate out of 1" box tubing welded to angle Iron that bolts to the origional point on the crossmember and new holes in the radiator support. I cut and welded the tubing to bend it to a shape that gives the best approach angle while still protecting the pan. Each arm of the skidplate frame runs alongsde the pan, one under the oil filter, one under the thermostat housing. A formed 1/8th inch plate bolts over it all. It's awesome, and it's taken a couple of hits. it would take a lot to bend it.

So I blew the bearings out of the rear U-joint of my driveshaft running it in RWD. It had been making a squeeking in 4wd for about a year, and I thought it was just the carrier bearing, but it was the U-joint. I went to use my spare driveshaft, and found it's U joint was loose too. It was less loose, so I used it, now they are both equally loose. The bearings are staked into place, but could be pressed out and new ones put in I think. Does anyone know if this can be done or has been done? I'm out of spare driveshafts.

I've driven a legacy missing a rack bushing, and it did the verry strange pause before steering while still giving wheel feedback. Wierdest feeling ever, ended up weaving a bit coming out of every corner. When you come out of a corner and let the wheel slide in your hands, does the wheel come back to straight? The steering angle Caster gives wheel returnability, that means the car wants to go in a straight line, and you have to force it to turn. If you are getting pulled around by the car wanting to turn, you may have too little caster. Things that affect caster on a mcphearson strut setup: bent strut, which would cause stiff and jerky ride. Strut cap moved forward in body (near impossible on the legacy's), or controll arm bushings shot. Have a friend stand next to the road and watch your front wheel. Drive up and hit the breaks to stop next to them. What they are watching is the relation from the wheel to the body, if it shifts backwards toward the rear of the wheel well, that's test one. Now hammer the gas to take off, the wheel shouldn't move forward in the wheel well at all. Have them look at both sides.

Is this the end of daeron? Sad way to go. A challenge over a strut cartrige?

WHen I do my gas millage calculations, I multiply my odometer by 1.2, then divide by the gallons. I get around 23 wheeling lots and beating on it, 27 highway cruising. And that's at 75+mph. My car is a loyale with an EJ22, 3.9:1 diffs.

I blew my front halfshaft out after a bunch of wheeling, actually snapped it pulling back on the street. So now the wagon is RWD! Loads of fun. I have much better tires on the back than the front, so it doesn't drift too well, it hooks up really nice and just goes. First time I've whipped nuts in a subaru, and man was it fun! I'm running 225/75r15's on it, but the EJ22 will break them loose no problem. Set my personal burnout record: 170 feet of thick black one wheel wonder. The hotter the tire got, the harder I had to pull on the E-brake. Sat around 5.5k rpm's in first and crawled. I'm going to put the small (stock) tires on and see how it does then.

I found out that they are a hundred bucks from the dealer, and none of the parts stores carry them in my area. It sucks because my car is doing the exact same thing.

One trick I heard of was to weld in the top of a sparkplug and thread a grease nipple in. put the plug in the cylinder that is nearest the middle of it's travel with the valves closed. Pump a couple of tubes of grease in, and the pressure will pop the engine loose.

It was blown all the way, clicking is not blown, it's just damaged. I made it about 10 miles, the axel popped out of the joint and did floppage. Pulled over, cut the band off the inner boot, pulled the clipring, and threw the halfshaft in the back.

SOme auto parts stores will read the codes with a scantool for free. Or you could take it to a shop and pay $50. You need a scan tool for a 1997, there's no other way. Look for loose wires under the hood.Especially check the ones under the manifold, coolant temp's and whatnot.

Konrad/soo welded the body back together, I tapped the hole where the bolt fell out up to 9/16. We welded a couple of washers to sandwhich the body where the farthest back bolt ripped through, and used a nut through a hole in the floor. (3rd try with the holesaw was in the right spot) I welded a brace on the rear bolt block, from the top of the block to the bushing plate. Should help a bit. Did some testing, 2.5 hours wheeling today, 1 hour yesterday. It's spent more time in the woods than on the street since the repair. Seems to have held up fine. RIght after we did all the wheeling this morning, I pulled out of my driveway and the CV blew. A crack and then vroooom. Threw it in 4wd and kept going.

I blew the outer CV on my right front axel. How far can I drive it before pulling the half shalft out? Will it pop out of the joint on it's own, and jam? Or will it kinda stay in and just spin in place?

Oh snap! Best go slap some stika's on my ride to make up for havin 2 wipers.

SVX 3.3l motor, with an eaton M62 on top of it, it a totaly stock looking EA82 3-door, silver. Dual range forrester tranny, so that I could launch the snots out of the car. Good mufflers and a lot of underhood sound mat to cut the supercharger whine. Way better headlights so that I can see what I'm about to hit at 150mph. I'd put a nice radio in, no subs, just a good headunit and nice speakers. I'm soo done with this cracking the stock speakers. Have a set of wider tires for the dragstrip. Let those integra's suck on that.

but why?