ron917

Corrosion forms between the aluminum alloy wheel and the steel hub. This happens sooner or later on every vehicle with alloy wheels. Here's a really slick method that usually works: put the lug nuts back on, then back them off a couple of turns. Put the car back on the ground, and SLOWLY drive forward/back a bit. This will break wheel loose, but it won't fall off because of the lug nuts. If it's really tight, you may need to slam the brakes to get it loose. pulloffs kicking method works most of the time, but I want to emphasize that the car must be STABLE. You could be seriously injured or killed. Sometimes, big f***in' hammers and blocks of wood are required. Don't hit the wheel directly with a steel BFH, you'll ding it up. A plastic deadblow hammer is ideal. Sometimes, you can CAREFULLY get a prybar behind the wheel and brake drum/rotor. This depends entirely on your wheel, hub and brake style. The risk is dinging up the wheel. To reduce chances of a future occurance, spread anti-sieze compound on the hub whereever it contacts the wheel.

I haven't had this problem on my Subaru, but... The symptoms sound very similar to crank/cam position sensor problems I've seen on other vehicles. The CPS failure mode tends to be intermitant and temperature related, with a warm (not cold or hot) no-start. Also, in the other vehicles, the ECU did not throw a code. The only way I could prove the CPS was at fault was with an oscilloscope or voltmeter - when the car wouldn't start, there was no signal, otherwise, it was fine. I don't know about your particular Subaru ECU, but many ECUs will run the fuel pump for a time while cranking, regardless of sensor signals. So, the fact that you have fuel pressure doesn't rule out sensor issues. DO NOT pay for a new ECU without absolute proof that it is the problem. ECUs are expensive but easy to change - in other words, high profit margins for the shop. Try to find a known good one to borrow for a while. These types of problem require patience, the shop manual, and good diagnostic skills. It's a pain to find the problem, but once found it is usually a simple fix - a sensor, wire or connector is almost always the culprit.

Punch a hole in the bottom of the filter, and let it drain into your drain pan. A hammer plus phillips screwdriver works just fine. For the original poster: I'll second the recomendations for a good independant shop. Ask around your area for recommendations. Dealers charge WAY too much and are no better than a GOOD independant. Regarding the quick lube or Midas type places, there are too many horror stories - avoid them.

I have a '99 Outback Wagon with 81K miles. The headgaskets are leaking, and will need to be replaced soon. Before buying the car 20 months ago, I did my research and learned of this common fault. When I compared with other vehicles on my short list, the HG issue was the only negative for the Outback. For me, it came down to doing one major repair on the Subie vs. lots of smaller repairs on the other vehicles I was considering. In other words, one big expense vs. being nickle-and-dimed for the life of the vehicle. Also, for me, tearing down an engine is not a problem. I do all of my own work on my cars. I've done headgaskets and total rebuilds before. Depending on your own needs, mechanical skill and other vehicles on your list, your opinion may differ. Oh, and the piston slap - mine does it, but it stops after driving 4 or 5 miles, even in the coldest weather. Not a big deal - my old Volvo 240 has been slapping in cold weather for the last 210,000 miles (sounds like an old school bus until it warms up). Your opinion will depend on your tolerance for mechanical noise - my first car was a 1978 VW Diesel, anything else is dead quiet compared to that.

I'm happy with Michelin Harmony tires on my '99 Outback Wagon. They are very good all-around tires for a daily driver. The Harmony is billed as a tire that is very good under all conditions, but doesn't excel at any one thing. I find that to be an accurate description. Handling, ride and traction are very good in dry and wet weather. Snow/ice performance is good, but not on par with dedicated winter tires.

My first impression: Murano + Edsel = B9X

Thanks for posting your notes. I'll be doing this job on my '99 Outback soon (auto tranny, so no clutch job).

There's are Harley Davidson edition of the Ford F-150. Does that count? BTW, the 2005 Outback Wagon is clasified as a light truck, making it a SUV.

That's why I'm not fixing my crank seal oil leak. The leaking oil is blown back and protects the underside of the car from rust. That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

My current daily driver is a '99 Outback. It replaced my totaled '89 Volvo 244 (210K miles, killed by a deer and rust). I still have the '89 244, which is the parts car for my 1990 Volvo 245 (former Mom-mobile for my wife), currently undergoing minor restoration at 205Kmiles (interior work, minor rust, and a nagging emissions problem). I previously owned a '84 245, and help my brothers maintain their Volvos ('93 245 and '93 940). The new Volvos are not like the old ones. They just weren't "right" for me. After much research, I chose the '99 Outback (used), knowing about the head gasket issue (no problem so far at 80Kmiles). Subarus are more reliable than Volvos (few things break). I'm not sure about durability yet (remaining generally sound/usable for a long time). My biggest issue with Subaru is the seats. Volvo makes the best seats on the planet. Two projects I want to try sometime: 1. Put a Volvo driver's seat in my Outback (might be too wide to fit). 2. Put a Subaru drivetrain in a Volvo 240 wagon. I always wanted an AWD 245.

A leak down test is dead simple to do in your own garage, and with the engine out of the car. A google search found a short explanation: http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/leaktst.htm (the site is about VWs, but info applies to any vehicle) You can buy a leak down tester at any automotive tool supplier. How to build your own leak down tester: http://www.morrowmarsh.ca/concours/techpages/leakdowntester.htm Of course, you need an air compressor. If you don't have one, now is a good time to get one. I don't know how I lived without a compressor and air tools.

I tried to use brake fluid as a paint remover once (needed to clean a spot for an electrical ground connection). I didn't do anything! Either Volvo paint is immune to brake fluid, or Castrol LMA doesn't damage paint. Haven't tried it on my Sube.

A recent issue of Car & Driver magazine had a comparison of the Legacy GT Sedan, Volvo S40 T5, Audi A4 and an Acura something-or-other. Your local library probably has a copy.

I may be joining the club soon myself, as I now have a steady stream of bubbles in my coolant overflow . No overheating (yet). '99 Outback wagon, 79K miles. I'll know for sure when I do a combustion gas test on the coolant using this kit http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=6760&itemType=PRODUCT&iProductID=6760 I'll do the work myself. I expect the cost to be around $500, which includes t-belt, oil seals, water pump, t-belt tensioner, engine hoist rental, etc. Plus 3 days of my time over the Christmas holiday. If DIY is an option for you, it can reduce the cost significantly.

Sorry, I don't know.

My '99 has the Phase I block. I think the changeover to Phase II came toward the very end of the '99 production run. I haven't heard of any tranny problems. However, the "slope mode" tranny programming that is only in the '99 can be annoying. It changes the shift program when it thinks you're on a hill. Keyword is "thinks" - it doesn't know, so somethimes it is wrong. Only problem at 78K miles is a leaky front crank seal (slow oil drip, very common). No head gasket trouble (yet...)

Last winter was the first for me and my Outback (auto tranny). Naturally, I had to test its limits:grin: In normal driving, you never notice the clutch pack doing its thing. The car just goes, very smooth and confident handling. In more spirited driving ("Closed course. Professional driver. Do not attempt."), you can feel the balance change as the clutch pack changes torque distribution. The transitions are smooth and predictable. There's no "spin, grab, spin, grab" like you mentioned.

Depends on what kind of snow. We get all kinds here in NJ. Dry, fluffy snow can be pretty deep (over the bumpers). It just kind of blows away. Wet, sticky snow isn't bad until it gets deep enough that you start "plowing" it with the subframe, or whatever. Then it will pack up under the car, and eventually you are high-centered. It doesn't matter how may wheels are driven, or what kind of tires you have, when they don't touch the ground, you don't move. Time to grab a shovel and start digging. If you're REALLY un-lucky, and the temperature is just right, the packed, wet, sticky, snow will freeze solid before you can dig it out. Not fun. Those are the times when you wish you had a winch.

4-wheeling is a sport, isn't it? It's done for fun and challenge. By that definition, a Jeep Wrangler is "sporty". Not sure about the utility - Wranglers aren't so good for hauling your family and loads of stuff, but they sure are fun. A Suburban definitely isn't "sporty", but it is utilitarian. Good for big families, hauling boats, work trucks, plowing snow, etc. I don't know how the H2 would fit in. I think folks buy them to make up for other shortcomings. Just my two cents....

As I understand it, if power is removed from the the solenoid that controls the clutch pack, it will lock in 50/50 mode. Should be a simple matter of splicing a switch in the appropriate wire.... Hmmm..... Still no 4L, but you would have a locked center. A manual locker for the rear would be nice, too...anyone know if one is available for Subies? (I don't have a rear LSD).

I'm impressed at the amount of diagnostic work done by the mechanic. Most every shop I've been to just likes to swap parts, charging you for all of them, until the problem goes away. Which is why I do all my own work. Of course, they are charging you labor for all that time.... I've only owned a Subaru for 18 months, so I don't have Subie specific advice for you. However, similar troubleshooting methods apply to all cars. A bad ECU is a reasonable guess, given the evidence. However, I don't think you should pay for guesses when expensive parts are involved. The only good way I've found to diagnose the ECU is to swap in a known good one. See if you can strike up a deal with the shop. They swap in a known good ECU, if it works, you buy it from them. Otherwise, they reinstall your old one, and you pay them only for thier time. In my experience (old Volvo 240), the crank sensor failed intermittantly when hot, and the ECU didn't throw a code. After ruling out everything else by following the shop manual diagnostics, I started carrying my DMM in the car (my oscilloscope is too big). The next time it wouldn't start, I was able to confirm that the crank sensor was not providing a signal. The Subary shop manual should have procedures for testing all of the sensors. If you plan to DIY, I suggest following the prodedures before changing parts. Otherwise, you have to weigh the labor cost vs. parts cost - for some parts, it may be cheaper to swap than test. -Ron

The dealer will have a rad cap, of course. I just bought one at my local auto parts store. I don't even remember the price - they're cheap. The new cap felt tighter than the old one. Not a scientific test, but there was a difference. -Ron

Don't panic yet! I also have a '99 Outback. Same symptoms occured last summer - a bubble every few seconds. New radiator cap, and the bubbles vanished. I still keep an eye on it, but have had no further signs of the dreaded head gasket failure. The radiator cap's job is to keep the cooling system under pressure, I think the spec is 13PSI. The boiling temperature of a liquid is directly related to pressure. If the pressure is too low, the coolant will boil. Boiling can occur at hot spots within the engine, and cause local overheating, which may lead to head gasket leaks. Of course, the reverse is also true - head gasket leaks can cause overheating. Chicken and egg problem - did a failed HG cause overheating, or did the overheating cause a failed HG? Pressure also increases with temperature - the other part of the rad cap's job is to let some coolant into the overflow tank as the temperature rises, thus keeping the pressure within spec. When the car cools down, coolant is sucked back in from the overflow.

5-7% still won't match a diesel. Check the VW Jetta, which is available with a gas or diesel engine, and allows an apples-to-apples comparison. The 2.0L gas engine with automatic is spec'ed at 24 & 30 MPG. The 1.9L TDI diesel with automatic is spec'ed at 33 & 44 MPG. That's a 37-46% efficiency gain. My brother owns a 2002 Jetta TDI automatic, and gets 42 MPG on his daily commute. When driving, you would be hard pressed to tell the difference between it and a gasoline model. It has tons of torque at low revs. The car is nothing like the '78 VW Diesel I owned - plenty of power, no smoke, no smell, very little noise. It's less noisy than my EJ25 on a cold morning .

And some engines have NO spark plugs at all, never mind the wires! If gasoline prices stay this high, I expect to see a lot more of those engines installed on cars in the US. (I'm talkin' about Diesel, of course.)