Scoobywagon

Why were you under the hood to change the key fob battery? What does the system do when you try to remote start? Does the remote have an LED that flashes when you push a button? Does the car respond at ALL when you push a button?

If your HID kit is like the one I put in my Wife's Forester, all you have to do is re-pin the connector that you use to connect to the car's harness. Just flip the two of them and voila. problem goes away.

It is possible that the emulsification you saw is related to leaking intake manifold gaskets. But I doubt it. There's not a particularly good way for coolant to enter the crankcase from the intake manifold unless it is continuously running past the rings while the car is parked.

Actually, Subaru mostly uses Clarion OEM equipment. Should be C-Bus, but could also be CE-Net. There are some C-Bus aux in and iPod interfaces. I may even have one or two at the shop.

Joining them together won't work. It may even be detrimental to your reception. There's some fairly esoteric math that goes into making that sort of thing work. It also occurs that you may have a weatherband radio with a separate antenna for the weather. I would try each antenna, in turn, in the area where you expect the worst reception. Pick the one that gets the better reception and go with that one.

If the key you have will operate the lock in one direction, but not the other, then the lock is likely damaged. Time for a new cylinder. It might be easiest to snag a complete set of cylinders out of a wrecking yard and just have THAT key made. Then you'll only have one key to deal with. Alternatively, a good locksmith can likely re-key all your existing cylinders to be the same.

We looked into doing this here at the shop once. I'll check around and see what we did then. I'm pretty sure we've got a pin-out somewhere. I'll see what I can do.

This is referred to as a diversity antenna system. It works really well at boosting reception under poor signal strength conditions. Either should work.

Actually, there's no law requiring you to ACTUALLY have a windshield in place. You must actually have windshield wipers, but there's nothing that says you have to have glass. If you don't, you'll need safety glasses.

Got yourself a 2kw inverter, huh?

The exhaust rides right up against the uniframe, so you just disconnect a couple of the exhaust hangers so you can work. Then you reconnect them back up when you're done working on it.

10 extra amps? Your stock alt is good for about 65 amps. GM big case alt is good for 140 amps and up. So that'd be a 75 amp increase.

I've seen cars with multiple alternators. There's a time and a place for that, but the reality is, most of us just don't draw that kind of current. Frankly, if you're just looking for more charging capacity, go with a high output GM Big case alternator. the 22SI (?) can be had producing over 140amps at idle. If you want to do something like that, check out alternatorparts.com. YOu can get some really manly alternators there. Like out past 300 amps manly. And unless you're running a HUGE stereo system or a large winch or enough lights to keep up with the lighting demands of a small city, like...say...Portland....you're unlikely to need more current than that. and if you do, you can get more than one.

Rebuilding a compressor is generally not cost-effective. It is a PITA and, odds are, you'll be revisiting the problem. Now, I find it a bit odd that you have a 14G compressor. I'm not doubting you. I believe that you have a 14G. HOwever, looking at my compressor catalog, the lego's all call for the DKV14D. A new DKV14D should run somewhere around $600 + tax. A reman should run about $460 + tax. BOth should include NEW clutches. Further, I don't see a rebuild kit available for this compressor. Not saying there isn't one...just that I don't see one currently available. Just so I can cover all the bases, here.... How have you determined that it is leaking at the front seal?

Those kits in that link are from Metra. They're usually pretty good about making there be instructions in the package. You shouldn't have any problem.

Sorry, man. I'm just kinda having a next level sort of moment. That never happens for me.

Wow...go me. Did I call that or what?

Building a dash kit is not difficult. A little ABS and some super glue and you're in business. Otherwise, you'll need to get one of the portable units and use your AUX port. You could use the built in FM modulator and the optional FM Direct adapter, but since you have the AUX port you should use that. You'll get better performance that way.

Might also check the pickup inside the disty. Mostly, you'll want to look at the gaps between the pickup and reluctor. If the gap is too wide, pickup won't see the reluctor. It can be an intermittent failure because there's a bit of slop in there.

You might also look into Milwaukee and Hitachi. 2 of my techs use them every day in the bay. Battery life appears to be excellent. Grunt is somewhat lacking, but I admit I'm comparing to a Snap-On cordless. That may be a bit unfair. The little Milwaukee impact gun lacks variable speed. On the other hand, it really doesn't throw a whole ton of torque either. So just be careful with it.

Kdub, try a wrecking yard, first. Those assemblies should not be more than a few Dollars/Euros/Pounds Effing Sterling. The OEM lights are pretty good. If the reflectors are shot, just get another set.

In my wife's Ranger, I ran a dual head remote oil filter system. I did that because, at the time, the little truck was seeing abusively hard use. The remote system let me have an additional 3.5-4 quarts of oil in the system over stock setup. That cost me a VERY small bit of oil pressure, but oil and engine temps came down a smidge. At the time, I did some reading on this topic and what I found is that OEM filter sizes seem to be largely based on crank case capacity and intended work load. Filter media does not get addressed in the documentation that I can find, so I suspect that just means the engineers assume a given media (such as Motorcraft/Wix) when setting those specs. As en example, Ford put the 2.3L I-4 into cars as well as the Ranger. It is essentially the same engine regardless of application. However, a NA 2.3 in a Mustang got one filter. The SAME 2.3 in a Ranger got a slightly larger filter and the turbo 2.3 in a Thunderbird got an even larger filter. In my case, that little truck was working so hard all the time that I felt the additional capacity was worth while. It also made oil changes MUCH easier. So, is bigger better? Depends on how you define "better". Is it going to give you better filtration? So long as the media is the same, no. But it will give you extra oil capacity and that means generally lower oil temps and (theoretically) longer oil life. I found that changing the Rangers stock oil filter every 3000, I was getting filthy oil out of it. But I was working it so hard that the oil would start to darken after only 1500 or so. I found that after the change, I could push my oil change intervals a little longer when I had to. I could get 4500-5000 out of it. That little mod more than doubled my crank case capacity. So twice the oil quantity for a 50% increase in oil life. I find that this is "better" for a vehicle that I'm working to death. I just don't work my Subaru's that hard. So OE filters for the Soob's.

If the reflectors are shot, its time to replace the whole assembly. Of course, you could replace the bulbs with something brighter. HID's spring immediately to mind. Or you could do both.

Snap-on CT4410 14.4v 3/8 impact. 230 ft-lbs of wrecking yard parts yoinking goodness.

Yes, I believe that's exactly what I said.