Scoobywagon

If I had to guess, the people at whom that kit is marketed probably think EXACTLY the same thing about some of the gnarly body kits that get sold here. Still....that IS hideous.

Get a set of whites. they're custom made for your foot and are rebuildable. They're spendy, but that's because they are worth every penny.

I suspect that pencils and markers end up in the same pocket universe as the partners for your leftover socks. I think the drier steals or eats them.

comes free with a Gmail account.

And here they are....first pics of Hatch Patrol 09. http://picasaweb.google.com/cnmphoto/HatchPatrolChristmasTreeRun2009# Enjoy!

The red dust is the same red dust that you see around your brakes and such. It is the result of the proper function of the clutch and the wear of the friction materials in the compressor clutch. Don't worry about it. Eventually the clutch will fail with the loss of enough friction material. But you aren't seeing anything unusual or worrisome.

You're quite welcome. Thanks for the kind words!

Dude, get in touch with Breeke. He's down that way. I'll bet he'd be willing to give you a ride. Just throwing that out there.

Albie from Allied is still around. Look in the vendor's section for Albie's Fab Shop. Still has the lifts and wheels and all that good stuff

Just bumping up. We're still here and we aren't going anywhere.

Clicking or popping from under the car in a turn usually indicates a dying axle. Check for torn boots. Check the u-joints for excessive slop. And since you're under there, look for all the areas of heavy gunk buildup. There's probably an oil leak somewhere nearby.

I don't see this doing anything for you. Essentially, you're trying to extract energy from the output side of the engine and apply that energy directly to the input side. That's perpetual motion. Won't work. Now....driving a turbo with a belt from the crank and using that to pull exhaust from the engine and push it down the pipe....that might be interesting. You'd essentially be trying to pull a vacuum on the exhaust all the time. You'd DEFINITELY have really excellent scavenging properties

14.4v Snap-On impact with a phillips bit. Push on it real hard, be gentle to start, then let 'er rip.

Give me a call. Basic keyless will run you $135 + tax. Progressive keyless will run $170 + tax. (360) 377 - 0769. The Autoglass Clinic & Mobile Radio.

If you want it to not EVER come off, windshield Urethane is excellent stuff. Just be sure to prep both surfaces properly.

I just looked at Grant's website and they show nothing for the GLs. However, I was looking at putting a custom wheel in one of my old EA-81's several years ago. Couldn't find a part number in the catalog then, either. But with about an hour sitting in the aisle at Autozone with a spare Subaru steering wheel, I was able to find a part for something else that worked. I think it was for a Nissan truck, but I'm not sure. I never did it because I just wasn't going to drop that kind of coin on a steering wheel.

Generally speaking, cheap is cheap. Having said that, I do own a few harbor freight items. Some of them come out of the box not working, like my fuel pressure guage. Fortunately, HF warranties all their tools. I went through a total of 3 fuel pressure guages to get one that worked. I don't feel that its particularly accurate, but its accurate ENOUGH. It allows me to "guage" fuel pressure even if it won't "meter", which is to say measure, fuel pressure. I'm not spending the $200 for the fuel pressure guage kit from Snap-On.

Welcome aboard! To answer your question, if you have a 1981-1985 wagon, it'll be referred to here as an EA-81 wagon. This designation derives from its engine model, the EA-81, a 1.8L pushrod H4. Wagons built from 1986-1992(?) are referred to as EA-82. This is also derived from its engine model, the EA-82, a 1.8L overhead cam engine. EA82 wagons are larger and somewhat boxier than the EA81 wagons.

A friend of mine has built some custom 20" wheels for his Unimog and needs to get the millscale off so he can primer and paint them.

tryin' to find someone with a blast cabinet large enough for a 20" wheel. I've got 5 wheels to blast the milscale off. Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

I'm sorry that I didn't spot this thread earlier. I could've saved a bit of work. Keyless entry in a Subaru is really very easy. All you have to do is get an actuator into the driver's door. Since Subaru's use what is called central locking, all of the other doors in the car imitate the drivers door. That's what that "sending unit" is for. To do this, you have two choices. You can add a regular 2 wire actuator or you can replace the "sending unit" with a 5 wire actuator. The 2 wire actuator is the easier method, but it also means theres more crap in your door. You simply mount the actuator and then bend its link bar appropriately so that you can attach it to the car's lock linkage. The 5 wire actuator is the way we usually try to go at work. Two wires are lock and unlock and cause the actuator to retract or extend. The other three wires give you a position. This way, the 5 wire actuator replaces the "sending unit" and all the other doors will mimic its lock position. The 2 wire actuators should be found at any car stereo or alarm shop and should run $25 or less. The 5 wire actuators will generally be a bit more. Closer to $45. The brand you want is SPAL. They're Italian, but don't let that scare you. They make an excellent product that doesn't tend to fail.

I don't know, man. That car can't POSSIBLY weight that much, even covered in mud!

I'll bring along some beverages. Just no adult beverages. That probably means an assortment of Coke, Moutain Dew and Monster Khaos. I'll also have some trash bags on board.

That sounds like a heck of a good time brewing up.

If it is just an add on remote start, you should be able to simply unplug it.