Scoobywagon

Its diesel, but...yeah...thats sorta what I figured.

I'm replacing the fuel return lines in my 86 F250. ONe of the injector caps in the kit is defective. Well, either that or there's a bad o-ring in there. I was thinking of using an o-ring from my collection, but those are for AC, not fuel. I just don't want the fuel to shred the o-ring and then have the inject suck in bits of shredded o-ring.

For the usage you're talking about, the Forester may not be a bad choice. You're quite right, though. It's going to be a tad light in the torque dept. As has been said, Subaru's are a poor choice for towing duties. However, your towing appears to be intermittent, though borderline insofar as weight goes. If I was sort of pinned down to one vehicle, I'd probably go ahead and get the Forester. I would then save up to purchase a more appropriate tow rig. Given the loads specified, it wouldn't even have to be much of a tow rig and therefore should be doable on the cheap. In the mean time, just take it easy and don't plan on being in a hurry. The Forester is going to be slow off the line. Just accept that and be courteous about it. If you're on a 2-lane road and 3-4 cars are backed up behind you because you're slow at the lights, then pull over and let them by. A little common sense goes a long way and everyone is happy.

Few weeks ago, my wife and I drove from our place to Oklahoma City to Dallas to Lubbock to Moab to Salt Lake and back home. I've forgotten what the total was but it was something like 4200 miles in 10 days.

As John said, that won't apply to you. Subaru never did that. Probably just his standard disclaimer.

Tell ya what, you can bring the car to my shop and we'll do an HID upgrade for $200 + tax. Longer bulb life and more light to boot.

One way or another, there WILL be chainsaws. Oh, yes. There WILL BE chainsaws.zzz

It is not a suitable sealant for a windshield. Silicone is generally not UV stable (though there are variants that are). Silicone lacks the appropriate shear strength for a windshield. Silicone will contaminate the glass surface, making your windshield unsuitable for proper installation later. That fact will also ensure that you cannot properly seal your windshield. Appropriate adhesives include urethane and bedding compound. Bedding compound is the appropriate sealant for a gasket mount windshield. Urethane is the appropriate sealant for a urethane set windshield.

DO NOT use silicone! For any reason. Ever. At least, not on a windshield. Give me a call at work tomorrow. I'll see what we can do for you. (360) 377-0769

Those tire chains MIGHT fit, but be aware that if they do, then the cable leader (that part that lets you adjust their size) will be fairly long and will likely try to shred your fender. Frankly, I wouldn't worry about it. Get yourself a second set of wheels and put some good winter tires on them and forget about chains. And if you REALLY want to have some fun, you put really good winter tires on the front and all-seasons on the back. That combo makes them REALLY tail-happy.

Early EA81's were externally regulated, but the later ones were internal. The 2 alternators in question are interchangeable. 11.45 @ 3200 indicates a problem. SInce this is an aircraft application, I'll bet that it it internally regulated. That means there's a dead alternator. Time for a new alt. Maybe time for an upgrade, too.

Howdy to both of ya's. Welcome aboard....get it? Its "a board".

Ya know...if you're in a pinch, FWD is MUCH better than NWD (No Wheels to Drive).

Strap wrench should go on the pulley directly. In other words, pull the belt off the compressor.

Yes, you can just put current to it directly from the battery. During the time it sat empty, had you left the system under vacuum? It occurs that it is possible that the rotating assembly inside the compressor could have corroded. If so, then the compressor is essentially toast.

I would apply current directly to the compressor clutch to make sure that it engages properly. Just leave the engine off and make sure that you can see or feel the clutch engaging and disengaging. If it will engage properly, then you can put a strap wrench on the pulley and try to turn it by hand. How long did it sit empty?

I'm in. Hopefully I'll have the truck sorted out, otherwise, I'll be in the Forester.

If the system is discharged, then the compressor won't run because the low-pressure switch won't let it. Did you recharge w/ R12 when you replaced the condenser?

You might think about getting a can of aerosol silicone spray lubricant. Excellent for lubricating window felts.

I would go with the factory fog lights and convert them and your headlights to HID. The patterns remain the same, but you get WAY more lumens.

Rostra Precision Controls part # 250-1176 and Rostra Precision Controls part # 250-1223 1176 is a sort of universal cruise kit and 1223 is a universal control handle. Installation is pretty straight forward and complete (useful) instructions are included. Plan on this being a half-day install if you've never done something like this before. Having said that, if you have the option of using a factory kit, do so because steering wheel controls rock.

My 14.4v 3/8" impact makes short work of even the most stubborn seat bolts and will happily tear the heads off the carrier bolts in an R160 diff. My 18v 1/2" impact makes short work of...well...almost everything. Darned handy for changing monster truck tires.

The window regulator should go in and out in a single piece. Been a while since I was in one of those, but as I recall, its a bit of a wrestling match, but not too bad. You use urethane to attach the glass to the little nylon clips. So far as I know. the trim parts are just that...trim.

If I remember correctly, the Loyale's had glass lenses. So even if they are NASTY, you should be able to clean them right up. Either way, HIDs will be brighter. As for blinding on coming traffic, just make sure they are aimed properly.

Snow tires are worth EVERY penny. Where I live, I have found that I don't need studs. However, there are some areas of the country where studs could be very important. I suspect that you live in one of them. I have at least 2 sets of wheels for every vehicle I own. One set has summer tires (either all season or high performance, depending on the vehicle), while the other set has winter tires. I find that a taller, skinnier tire is the way to go for snow. I run Blizzaks, but in areas where you can reasonably expect ice buildup on the road, studs are the shizznit.