Scoobywagon

Every technician I have talked to has told me to avoid the H6. Not that its a bad engine, just that it is an enormous pain in the butt to work on. Which means that book times for repairs are higher and, since the technicians don't want to work on them, you get charged shop rate * book time. Whereas, with the Ej25 or Ej22, you're much more likely to get a pro-rate.

A little anti-seize goes a long way.

Glad to hear that you're ok. But, it could have been so much worse. This lady lost everything she owned.

I wouldn't worry about it. If its a problem, the mods will move it. But the thread is helpful for pretty much ANYONE with a 134A system regardless of year and model.

I've got the dog guard in my 01 Forester. As Suzam says, it does NOT reach floor to ceiling. It sits in the slots for the cargo cover and gets screwed into the roof. There are some bungs up there for it. They are right, it ISN'T meant to go in and out easily. However, it isn't too hard to put in or take out. Just takes a screwdriver and a little patience.

I'm sorry to tell you this, but you need to re-evacuate that system. It has air in it again. Once you've got good vacuum, close the lower valve on the yellow hose. Disconnect the vacuum pump, connect your first can of 134a. Open the lower valve on the yellow hose slowly. As I said before, R134a is corrosive in the presence of air.

Give me a call. I keep some of that stuff in stock at my shop. I may even have a good compressor at home if you want. Shop number is (360) 377-0769

No, it would not. I don't know a company that still builds vacuum cruise in the aftermarket. Most dealerships, though not all, will use aftermarket cruise as a dealer option because it is usually MUCH less expensive than using the factory parts. And they can still gouge you for full ride since you aren't likely to ever notice the difference.

The compressor will not run without proper pressure in the system. This helps prevent it from eating itself in the event of a leak. Why are you trying to the compressor with a vacuum pump on?

I might be available this Sun, too. I've got a couple of things up in the air right now...not sure how that's gonna shake out yet.

I've got a couple of projects that just SHOULD NOT be kicking my backside like they are. So I figure I'll go to the bribery well to get some help with them. I'll start off with "What's in it for you". I will make there be soda and adult beverages for the occasion. I will make there be some burgers/dogs. Also, I'm starting to build myself a small pistol range in my back yard. So I'll take any old tires you may have lying around. Now here's what I need. I need to complete an EA82 swap in a car with an auto trans. I also need to swap most of the front end from a Legacy sedan into a Legacy wagon. Mostly the steering rack, but it seems like it might be easier to just yerf the whole thing and do it as a unit. There will be an air compressor and a small assortment of air tools here. Feel free to bring along whatever you'd like to run off the air. I'm looking at doing this probably on Sunday the 7th though I could possibly be talked into an earlier date. Thanks, folks!

"Grouding Kits" are just snake oil. If you believe you are having ground-related electrical problems, your local welding supply shop can help you resolve them for about $12. Go in and ask for some #4 welding lead and copper ring terminals. 2-3 feet to run from engine and transmission, 1 foot or so to run from the body. Bring both of them up directly to the battery. You simply aren't going to get better ground potential than that. If you continue having ground problems, then you need to look at the individual ground points for whatever component is affected.

Why not just cut the Subaru shifter down to the desired length?

I don't have an answer for your first question. As for #2.... Sealed beam lights are the old style where the reflector is part of the bulb. They tend to be less expensive because the housings are very inexpensive to make. Compound lighting systems tend to generate more useful light patterns and so appear brighter. So far as I know, Subaru has never used sealed beam fog lights, but I could be wrong there. The other nice thing about compound lighting is that its easy to upgrade. Basic Halogen bulbs are plentiful and cheap. But you can upgrade them to cool blue for not much more money. If you REALLY want them bright, HID upgrade kits are not terribly expensive.

Ok....that may be where I went wrong here. Does the converter need to be unbolted from the flex plate prior to pulling the motor? Just asking so as to be crystal clear on this. If so, do you unbolt it through the timing mark hole? I guess I just figured it came out like a clutch. Unbolt the motor, pull it, unbolt the clutch from the back side. Oops.

Up to this point, I didn't think that pulling a motor out of a Subaru was a big deal. But I've never pulled a motor from a vehicle with an automatic trans before. I seem to have broken the input shaft on the trans in the donor car. That doesn't hurt my feelings because that trans was pretty much done when I got it. I've got the engine unbolted in the car I'm putting this engine into but I haven't put the hoist on it yet. So before I go reefing and yanking, I thought I'd ask if there's some kind of trick when pulling a motor off of an auto trans. Anyone?

http://www.rostra.com These are aftermarket electronic cruise kits. VERY good ones. With a little bit of work, you can get them to work with factory cruise handles.

Post a link to the auction. I'll take a look. Subaru has really only used a couple of different audio system harnesses. over the years. The only question is whether or not you'll have to modify your dash. Probably not. If this is one of the stand-alone 6-disc changers, it will depend on what radio you have. Take a pic of your stereo and post it up here.

They are 6 1/2 inch speakers. With a little wrangling, you can get them to accept a 6 1/2 oversize.

Most refrigerants come with compressor oil in them. The oil is just mineral oil, but you'll have to work out just how much you need.

Just so we're clear.... The evaporator is in the dash, the condenser is under the hood. Just want to make sure we're talking about the same parts here. Hearing a bit of a hiss from the system is not unheard of. The expansion valve and reciever/drier both make some hissing noises. As far as having the evaporator fail, yes it can fail "on its own". Its just aluminum, and usually fairly thin aluminum at that. Being soft, it won't take a lot of abuse and corrosion is DEFINITELY not your friend here. The thing to do is to pull it down to as hard a vaccuum as you can and make sure that the system will hold that. In our shop, the vehicle sits for a MINIMUM of 30-45 minutes. If the guage shows full vaccuum, you're good to go. Otherwise, its time to track down a leak if that needle has moved AT ALL. The pump we use is this one. Pull it down to vaccuum, make sure it holds that vaccuum, add refrigerant to fill. The sight glass in the reciever drier is USELESS for this. Check your service manual for refrigerant capacity. Most vehicles are in the 2-2.5 lb range. Good luck!

Another reason to pull a vaccuum prior to charging is that R134a is corrosive in the presence of air. The problem with that is that your evaporator core is usually made of relatively thin aluminum that will corrode in a few years. You end up with a bunch of pin holes in the evap core and wasting a lot of refrigerant. And, just so I can say I said so...Venting refrigerant into the atmosphere is a VERY bad idea....environmentally speaking. People have paid HEAVY fines for that. Just so you know.

Check out Rostra Controls. Just search for your vehicle and your set. I'm pretty sure that vaccuum cruise control systems have long since gone the way of the dodo. I'd bet good money that that vac cruise you have is NOT OEM.

I can get you an HID conversion kit for a pretty reasonable price. I'd have to look into shipping to Oz...no idea what that might run. Let me know if you'd like to do that. I can get you exact pricing.

I suspect low coolant leading to an overheating condition. Might want to check into that.