Scoobywagon

Oddly enough, I was just in that connector on my 93 Legacy a couple of days ago. I recommend using a straight pick tool and coming in from the open end. At least on mine, the wire end has a bit of a molded boot on it. You'll see the two slot where the pins are and they have small recesses molded into them on the outboard sides. Just insert the pick tool in there and fish around just a bit. You'll feel the tab in there. Press the tab down and tug GENTLY on the wires.

Yes, there is a CEL. Unfortunately for me, since this is an OBD I car, I don't have a particularly good way of pulling codes. So I figured I'd ask around just a bit and see what folks thought.

Ok, so I need some help troubleshooting my 93 Legacy wagon. 2.2, AWD, 5-speed, 234k. When its cold, I can turn the key and it'll start right up. Once its warmed up, it wants to idle high. Mostly right around 2k, sometimes 3k. However, it will slow down after a moment and drop down to about 1k. If I put a load on it, say by giving it a little clutch, it will return to its high idle state for a while and then calm back down. If I turn it off, I can only restart it either by bump starting or by using the flood clear mode (WOT while on the starter). Once I get it started again, it will cough and sputter briefly, then idle high. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

If you're just doing the graphics, you'll likely end up needing 4-5 cans, depending on how heavy you want to build it up. If you want to do the whole car, I suspect you'll be in it 9-10 cans of paint and almost that much primer. I HIGHLY recommend primering the car. Just scuff the factory paint first. If you have a DA sander, use that with some 400-600 grit sandpaper. You can also just use a red scotch-brite pad. Scuff the paint, clean with laquer thinner or denatured alcohol. Wait for the cleaner to dry. Start with the primer. Sand lighty with 600-grit or higher. Just another light scuffing. Clean again. Shoot paint. As far as the paint itself goes, I HIGHLY recommend SEM paint products. Its a little expensive. Seems to run $9-10 a can. But it lays down almost as nicely as regular paint. If you want to do it with actual acrylic paint, go with Nason Fast Dry Acrylic. Its designed for use on equipment, so it dries fast and lays down nice and even. Runs about $10/pint. Reducer for it runs about $20/pint, but its a 4:1 ratio so it goes a LONG way. Then you can either clear coat with high-gloss clear or, if you want, a flat clear. Those seem to run about $30-40/quart and will require a hardener. The primer seems to run about the same. You'll likely need a couple of quarts each of primer and color. One quart each of reducer, clear and hardener.

Higher wattage (more lumens) is nice, but remember that headlights are regulated at 55w for highway use.

What you have is NOT a McIntosh stereo. It is actually built by Clarion (who owns McIntosh) and sold as a stereo upgrade through the manufcaturer, Subaru in this case. You are simply not going to get anything from their web site. ER3 in most cases means some kind of CD transport error. Cleaning won't help it because the problem is usually that the laser servo is out of alignment. YOu can put into a repair shop for a repair, but that's likely to run you $150-200. FYI, YMMV.

So after a good bit of mucking about, I have the definitive answer. No, an EA type starter will not work on an EJ engine. However, its pretty easy to modify it. In my case, I had a dead EJ starter and a whole pile of EA starters. Motors and connectors are pretty much spot on. They're even indexed the same. The difference lies in the gear reduction housing. The EA series starters have a collar that comes up and shrouds the pinion gear when it is not engaged. You could grind that off, but the pinion does not extend quite far enough to get full bite on the flywheel. It'd probably work, but you wear out the teeth on your flywheel. So...how does this work. First, you have to remove the gear head from the EA starter. This is done by removing 2 screws that are down inside the flywheel end of the starter. I found that this was best accomplished using a #2 phillips head on an impact gun. Next, there are two long, thin bolts that run the length of the motor can. 8mm socket on 1/4" drive ratchet does this just fine. The EJ series starter comes apart exactly the same way except that you have 2 8mm hex head screws that replace the phillips head screws on the EA starter. I found that I could easily remove these with the same 8mm socket and ratchet combo. Next, you need to VERY CAREFULLY remove the gear heads. This is best done with your EA starter in a vice so that it stands vertical. That'll keep all of its internal bits internal. You don't have to be quite so careful with the EJ motor because...well....its dead, jim. Swap the EJ gear head onto the EA motor and reverse the disassembly procedure. Voila. One EAJ starter!

I'd want to see it to make a real diagnosis, but what you're describing sounds like the rubber molding on the front sunroof has dried up and shrunk. That would account for your wind noise, especially if the glass itself is a bit sloppy. Sitting inside the vehicle, can you reach up and push on the glass enough to open a gap to the outside? If you can, so can 60mph wind. The molding MAY still be available from Subaru. I'd look into that. If the glass is sloppy, there are adjustments in the tracks to help you take that out.

The misfire code could still be related to the fouled #1 plug. If I recall correctly, it uses a wasted spark system so that #1 provides a resistive load when firing #3 and #3 does the same for #1. In such a case, #1 would not provide a proper load for #3 and could cause a misfire. If the EGR is opening and closing properly, then you're back to checking the solenoid. As was mentioned, the ECM can't tell if the EGR valve itself is open or closed as it is not an electrical item. The computer is looking at the solenoid and assuming that the position of the EGR valve corresponds to the readings it gets from the solenoid. If those readings are skewed somehow, the ECM will assume that there is an EGR problem. Change the plugs, check the EGR valve and its solenoid. Short term, ignore the O2 code. It may be related to the plugs. If it doesn't clear after a tank or 2, then go ahead and change the O2 sensors

I suspect this is a stupid question only because I think I already know the answer. But what the heck. The starter in my 93 Legowagon has gone TU. I do not currently own a spare. However, I have a veritable mountain of EA starters. Anyone happen to know if an EA starter will bolt up? Just thought I'd ask.

Yes, you can get the can bus to work. Most of what you need to know to do it is here. Having said that, by the time you got done with that, you'd probably be better off to go to a stand alone ECM.

I'm not sure, but it looks kinda like 24hr tape thats been left on ENTIRELY too long.

I no longer have this setup. Sorry. But they seem to be referred to commonly as "cigar" type mufflers.

I had REALLY good luck with the factory 1.75" Y-pipe into 2" that ran all the way to the back to a fabricated 2" Y that fed a pair of Harley-Davidson "cigar" type mufflers. See my avatar. This will give you a nice mellow sound at partial throttle, but at WOT it bellows. Harley straight-thru's also work but are probably better for either larger engines or forced-induction engines.

If you REALLY want to put a kill switch on the fuel pump, I'd get under the car with a meter and determine which wire sources ground for the pump. I'd cut that wire, then add a relay. That relay would be triggered from inside the car with a VERY small switch that doesn't look like it does anything important. If you want specifics, I can look it up in alldata tomorrow. What year and model vehicle are we talking about?

If the ball has popped out of the socket, it can be re-inserted. However, it requires a special tool that is more expensive than a replacement mirror. Any good autoglass shop should be able to do it for you, though. Otherwise, a replacement mirror shouldn't be terribly expensive.

I'm sorry, but we cannot install old windshield glass. IN this case, the silicone is a problem for the proper adhesive. In any case, the adhesive manufacturers advise against it because adhesion can be a problem owing to contamination in old glass. That's a safety problem. People have been known to end up in jail for that. Usually because they put in old glass with new adhesive and when the car got in an accident the windshield was ejected and the vehicle occupants were, too. To be honest, this is all aside from the fact that it practically requires a miracle of god mandated by an act of congress to get a windshield out without breaking it.

Yes, that includes install. Yes, you can drive home with it. For the adhesives that we use, Safe Drive Away Time (SDAT) is about 45 minutes. Which is to say that about the time it gets put back together, it should be safe to drive. Which means that the adhesive will have set up enough to retain the windshield in the event of an accident up to 60mph.

EA81 Brats do not have gasket set windshields. They are urethane set. So yes, you get a new seal, but the chrome trim pieces get re-used. If yours are beat, I can hunt around. I've found them before, but they're PRICEY. Let me know. I can get you scheduled up pretty quick if you'd like.

New W/S with the blue visor will run $201.66 + tax. Got one in stock.

OK....jack the car up with all 4 tires off the ground. Leave it in 4wd and 1st gear. Slide under the car and try to turn the driveshaft by hand. You shouldn't be able to because the engine's compression has more leverage than your hand. Then put the car in neutral, leaving it in 4wd. Try turning the shaft by hand again. THis time, look to see if the front wheels turn with the back wheels. Mind you, you're going to have to work at this. It'll be hard to turn. If you can't turn the shaft with the trans in gear, but you CAN turn it with the trans in neutral, probably your transmission is ok. That leaves u-joints, diff and axles. U-joints and axles will be plenty obvious. The diff you'll have to troubleshoot some. Let us know what you find out.

I'm not sure what a code 35 is, but it sure sounds like you have a fuel problem. I assume you've already changed the fuel filter, but what about the pump? Had the injectors cleaned?

The question is... What kind of damage has been done, exactly? Does your 4wd selector still feel right? If you put it in 4wd, does it make any new noises? What about driving around in 4wd? Any new noises there? I could see a tow truck damaging a few things, but (having had to drag a few soobs around) I've observed that the wheels usually just stay locked and the truck drags the car around leaving skid marks. Mind you...this is dragging a car around for a few feet. And by that I mean 10-12 feet. Try pulling it around further than that and all bets are off.

If people are popping beads owing to low pressure, that implies to me that you should probably get off the psgr car snow tires and maybe get into a light truck tire. Heavier bead, stiffer sidewalls that way. What size tire are you running? I suppose you could get a set of the Pirelli Scorpions they use for WRC, but frankly I'm amazed they have kept that rule. I have never once been on a set of Pirelli's that I was even kind of impressed with. Especially given the money you pay for a set of them. Just found www.thetireshoppe.com. They apparently have some Hankooks in stock. At least according to their web site.

VisionX makes square fog/driving lights that should fit. You'll need to measure the holes, but there are options available in either HID or LED. http://www.visionxoffroad.com