Scoobywagon

I know I've got a spare pump. Just needs removing from the engine its on. Tell ya what, Geoff...pay the gas, lunch and beer bill, and I'll come over and either remove the pump, remove the filter, or help you get the engine out...whatever ends up being easiest at the time. I've got an air hammer that REALLY makes that job easier. Don't give up on her yet...give her a shot.

Dangit, Turbone...how many times do we have to talk about you and that crackpipe???? Oatmeal raisin cookies are WAAAAAY better!!! Sheesh!

Ok, so the E in 4EAT means electronic, right? Now does that mean that ALL shifting is electronically controlled? Would that include the shift from Park to Reverse or Drive? Anyone know? Anyone have and idea?

78 Brat - something hideous 81 GL wagon - Light blue 83 GL wagon - tan 83 GL wagon - burgundy 85 RX sedan - Red 87 GL Wagon - blue 88 GL10 wagon - burgundy 88 GL wagon - red *edit* - Good LORD, I'm starting to have a respectable collection!

A Ranger and a Toyota...at the same time, in sand, on street radials.

Inexperienced as I am with this sort of thing (performance building), I'll take a SWAG...Have you looked at your throttle position sensor? If the ECM is getting some whacky signal from the TPS, then it will do some whacky things. Have you ever had your injectors cleaned/tested? Frankly, I'm thinking I'd make the engine as basic as possible and build back up from there. Remove the IC and BOV, any boost controller you may have and anything else that isn't ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY to make the car run. Get it running, then add all that stuff back in one piece at a time. Add a piece, re-tune. Another piece, retune. Wash, rinse, repeat. I'm an inexperience performance builder, though, so don't take ANY of that as holy writ or anything. Cheer up, though. You'll get it running. I, and others, have faith in you.

THATS IT! I am SOOOOO there! When do we leave???? Went down to Schwab today...found a set of tires that I believe I'll be using. Now I just need to get the lift actually installed, build the Safari Rack w/ lights and extra fuel tank...and figure out why the dang car is currently running so dang rich.

My wife and I are SO up for this! Gotta get the wagon prepped for a trip like that, though. Lessee.... Really good snow tires (6) Shovel 4 axles (2 front, 2 rear) Cooler w/ food MRE's winch (5k? 9.5?) blankets (yes, thats plural) Heavy duty cold weather gear Complete set of tools On board air (?) Lots and lots of lights. Roof rack Anybody have any thoughts on using really aggressive tires in the snow? Like a bogger? Or would normal snow tires be better?

Sorry to hear about that, but glad you're alright. THe car MAY be salvageable. I'm not seeing any apparent damage other than the door and lower sill, but that's obviously not a pure indicator. I'd buy it back from the insurance company, even if they DO total it. Put a new door on it and see if it will run straight down the road. If it does, then re-title it, new plates and RALLY ON! IF not, then you may be able to straighten it yourself and maybe use it as track toy.

Harbor frieght has a plastic welder that you can buy...that'll do it up nicely...complete with big, borking seam right down it. But it won't break!

I believe Gorilla Glue would do you up right. Course, the glue would be stronger than the parent material at that point, but at least the glue won't break.

So about 6pm tonight, my wife, mother in law and myself were leaving the Puyallup fair. I spotted a red L-body wagon, lifted(?) rally lights on the front bumper, roof rack and stickers all over. Bueller? Bueller?

YOu're going to need a LOT of backspacing to make 235's fit. Aside from that, most 14" rims (including pugs) are only about 5.5-6" wide. That's a bit narrow for a 235 tire. Having said that, Tire Rack shows no tires in 235/75-14. Jump up to a 15 and you suddenly get 34 choices in AT and MT flavors. You'll need a wheel at least 6" wide and plenty of backspacing. Best options here are Chevy and Toyota 6-lug steels. You'll have better luck getting someone to modify the cars hubs than finding someone to modify the wheels as that is illegal in most states. Besides, 6 is better than 4, right? As a point of reference, I'm running 195/70-14's on Pug alloys. Thats a LOT of tire under such a small car.

Well, I'm certain that I could get 8,000hp out of an ea82t...once...and VERY briefly!

I don't currently have a running car suitable for sand drags, but I'll see what I can do about having the 24th off. I'll come cheer you on!

Whats the other half? Iceberg? Sorry...lame lettuce joke. I'll flog myself later.

You can remove the bearings without a press, but its a LOT easier with one. As someone else said, you need to drive the old bearings out straight or they get stuck. YOu also need to make sure that you do NOT apply any pressure to the inner race of the bearings. Also, you will want to try to not scratch the inner wall of the knuckle. The first time I did this, I used an old gasket scraper that I had ground the edge off of. I just ground it down to a round edge with rounded corners. USed that and a large(ish) hammer to drive the bearings right out. Large sockets come in handy for reinstalling the new bearings.

I know that Subaru's don't typically flex terribly well, but I was wondering if anyone had ever RTI'd a Soob. What did you score? With what mods? I'm starting the design stage of fabricating my own lift for my 83 wagon. My neighbor has a 20 degree ramp and I'm thinking about using it to measure RTI at each stage of the build. I'll go up first with the stock 13s and the suspension at about the halfway point. Then with the suspension raised all the way up. Then with the suspension all the way up and my Pug alloys mounted. Then lifted with the suspension all the way down and lifted with the suspension all the way up. Any thoughts?

Port Orchard has an airfield, albeit a small one. Also, there's Bremertons airport. THat opens up some possibilities in Belfair, PO, Bremerton, Maybe Silverdale. Real estate prices here are pretty decent, too.

Probably wouldn't be terribly difficult for a competent machinist to retrofit Ford RABS into a Soob. It consists of toothed ring and an electronic pickup that sends position data to a small computer, external to the ECM, that controls a small check valve (?). The hard part would be getting the ring installed in the rear diff and adding provisions in the case for the pickup. After that...no problem at all.

Yes, but what about the "extended" set?

Well, as much as I hate to say this....ya gotta do what ya gotta do. I'm thinking I'd send a letter via registered mail. That way you KNOW he got it. In that letter, I'd spell out exactly what you wrote below. He IS a good guy. He IS a family man. in this case, he's trying to be a business man. That's something he can learn, but he shouldn't be learning it on someone else's dime(s). I like John. A LOT. But promises are promises. Had to have that same discussion with him at WCSS7.

Ya know....there's a digital expression just for people like you.....

Yeah...um...about that. See, I was trying to do this without opening the engine at all...so there! Concordantly! Ergo! Vis a Vis! Sorry...was just watching the Matrix Reloaded special features DVD...funny stuff. good times!

Well, I went looking and couldn't find something definitive that says "This is how you find TDC on an EA81". So, barring that, I figure i'll set the crank to 0 as indicated by the timing marks on the flywheel. Then, I'll install the disty with the rotor pointed at #1. Then I'll try it. If it fires, great, if not, then one complete revolution at the crank pulley should do it, right? Any thoughts?