Scoobywagon

Welcome to the board! Well, as has already been mentioned, you will need an adapter plate to mate an EJ (WRX) engine with an EA (Loyale) transmission. Really, though, I think you'd be happier swapping in an EJ tranny while you're at it. Mechanically, the difference between AWD and 4WD, between transfer case and center diff (or transaxle), is that a transfer case does not allow any slip between the two outputs. So, if you run your Loyale in 4wd on dry pavement, you'll soon start breaking things, most likely DOJ cups. Adding a significant amount of power, in the form of an EJ engine, will just make the problem worse. The unfortunate thing is that (I think) the Impreza tranny's have 4.111 gears whereas your Loyale has 3.90 gears. You'd need to either swap rear ends or transplant impreza gears into your Loyale pumpkin. I think a rearend swap would be easier. Should be fun. Good luck!

Well, everything got pushed up by a day due to some scheduling problems. So, I'm leaving tomorrow about 8:30 am and running south as fast as I can get there. Planning stops in Longview, Portland, Eugene, and Medford. Maybe somewhere in really northern Cali if someone is up there. I'm headed to Sacramento and/or Oroville. If you are somewhere on that route and wouldn't mind a quick visit, PM me tonight with a phone number and I'll give you a call when I get close. Thanks Guys!

The C4 is light as anything, as Morgan said, probably lighter than the D/R trannys. The POwerglide is cast iron, but I believe there are some aluminum casings available for them now. either way, it is just a 2-speed slush box and, as such, really doesn't weigh anything either. I've seen powerglides survive behind engines putting out more than 800 ponies at the flywheel, so durability shouldn't be an issue for this application. Another nice thing about the powerglide is that there is an ENORMOUS aftermarket support for it and custom gearsets aren't terribly difficult to get. Use a relatively high-rpm stall converter and a low set of gears in the trans. Add in double reduction in the t-cases and your crawl ratio gets HUGE.

All the symptoms you describe are either in the dash or behind you. This tells me that your problem is likely to be under the dash, probably in the wad of wiring behind the fues panel. The connectors get brittle with age and sometimes the wires IN those connectors start getting loose from the vibration in the car. When that happens all KINDS of weird stuff starts happening. WOuldn't bet against a dead/dieing alternator, but double check your wiring under the dash. Start with the platic connectors behind the fuse panel.

I make it a habit to demand snow every winter. Sometimes it works. I'm thinking this year, instead of yelling demands at the sky, I will resort to talking smack to it. "Is THAT all you got?" I'm with Northwet. BRING IT ON!!

I did this to a friend's Pontiac once. He lost the little socket tool. I used a glod of JB Weld. Pushed it into the grooves on the head of the locking nut, then built it up around a pair of 19mm sockets that I had threaded against each other on a piece of allthread. Let the JB weld set up and put a lug wrench on it. Off she goes.

I got to wondering about the interchangability of parts between the EA71 and the EA81. I'm under the impression that EA71 pistons can be transplanted into an EA81, implying that at least the top end of the con-rods in both engines is the same. If this is true, then it stands to reason that the connecting rods ARE the same with, perhaps, differences in length. That, in turn, implies that the cranks SHOULD interchange. Is this the case? I was thinking of ways to get more go-fast out of an EA81 and it ocurred to me that a shorter stroke and lighter rotating assembly would do wonders. Now, as far as I know, both engines have the same bore, so the difference in displacement must lie in stroke. So, I'm thinking a lightened and balanced EA71 crank (knifedged, maybe?) with EA71 Conrods and EA81 pistons in an EA81T block, Extrude Honed Intake and heads, and a somewhat beefier turbo. Add in enhanced engine management and some good ignition control and I think we've got a winner. Any thoughts?

She's a show dog bred by a friend of mine. The person who currently has her is going through a divorce and, by the terms of the contract, has to return the dog to the breeder. THe breeder (my friend) has been unhappy with this home for a while and finally has an excuse to get the dog back. He's afraid that she might have been abused/neglected in her term with the current owner, so he's in a bit of a hurry to get her back. Unfortunately, he lives in Texas and the dog is in Sacramento. Since my wife and I are headed down there in Feb or so, he asked if we could go get her and take care of her until we go down there. So...I said "No Problem". I'm headed down there next Friday. Probably leave here noonish and head that way.

Ok...looks like I'm headed to Sacramento next weekend. I'll be leaving my house about noonish on Friday and head south on I-5. I've got a stop to make for...ummmm....Sorry, forgotten who it is off hand, but someone wanted a door and a seat from the 83 t-wagon I stripped. I think that was Bajavwsoobnut. Anyway...headed that direction. If someone else needs something trandsported that way, let me know. I'd also like to meet a few people along the way. PM's will be forthcoming.

Well...I need to go rescue a dog for a friend of mine, so either tomorrow (possibly later today) or next week, I'll be leaving here and heading towards Southern Oregon. I'm looking at about 18hours of ironman driving and thought it'd be nice to take the opportunity to meet a few people. So, if you are somewhere near I-5 between Tacoma and Medford and would like A) to have something transported or would like some temporary company, post here or PM me. Thanks! Charley

Don't get stuck on a particular brand of tools unless you intend to make living off of those tools. I've got a mishmash of Craftsman, Snap-on and Pittsburgh. No difference in the way the brands work, only real difference is the price. If I was gonna try to earn a living off my tools, they'd all be Snap-on. I'm not, so I get what works. As someone else mentioned, a good set of basic metric tools will get you started nicely. Sears has a nice set for not much money, so that's a good place to start. Really all I'd recommend is a basic mechanics tool set with wrench and socket sizes ranging from 6mm to 19mm, a set of decent pliers, wire cutters, phillips head screwdriver and flat screwdriver. Invest in a Factory Service Manual (FSM) if you can afford one. Chiltons and Haynes are ok for basic stuff, but you'll quickly learn where they come up short. If you can't afford the FSM, then try to get both the Chilton's and Haynes manuals. They both are rather incomplete, but they tend to be incomplete in different places.

My 83 got 26MPG tonight. I was delivering pizza in it, which means the car ran continuously for 4.5 hours, no speed greater than 50mph. :cool: I LOVE these little cars!

Since you're going to be using a transfer case (or 2), why bother with an AWD tranny? I'm thinking I'd go with a tremec T5 and an adapter from transdapt. Then again...if I was REALLY serious about building a hard core crawler, I'd use an auto..probably a Ford C4, but some others are possibilities. An AWD tranny is just going to be more expensive and result in your car haveing extra weight that it doesn't need. So why not go to a lighter RWD tranny, add your t-case(s) and use R-160's at each end (if you REALLY want to keep the IS). As I think about it, I think you'd want a reasonably light weight tranny that can handle the power and weight of the target buggy. With a 2.2, you really aren't talking about a ton of power and given the fact that you'll have a tube-frame vehicle, overall weight shouldn't be too high either. Figure you'll have...oh...I dunno...2200lbs of XT carcass on 7-800lbs of tube frame. Realistically, you're only looking at a MAX weight of 3 kilopounds. You wouldn't need an AWD tranny, just a way to get power from the engine to the t-case(s). A GM Turbo-200 with a manu-matic shift kit MIGHT be up to the task...Turbo350 DEFINITELY would, but its a REALLY heavy tranny. Ford C4 is somewhere in the middle and should work fine. Then again, since this vehicle doesn't need to be particularly fuel efficient...a Powerglide might work beautifully. Powerglide doesn't weight too much and can be built to take ANY amount of power that a 2.2 can be made to put out without grenading itself. Soooooo......EJ22, Powerglide, 2 sammy t-cases and 2 R-160 LSD's. Sounds like a winner.

I'll check with my wife...see what we're up to then.

Ok...so it idles nicely, runs smoothly, reasonable power, good mileage, no odd thunks or rattles...no pulling...So what the heck is wrong with it NOW? ???? I'm so used to it making SOME kind of noise, or otherwise behaving oddly, that when it doesn't I get paranoid. Oh well. Maybe I should just enjoy it while it lasts.

I've been talking to a friend of mine who is looking at doing this swap. Apparently, the later tranny's are more stout than the earlier ones whether you have a tranny cooler or not. According to him, the SVX community has sort of come to the conclusion that the 4eat is simply not a substantial enough transmission for a car with that much power and weight. Therefore, the 5- or 6-speed conversion makes some good sense. STi 6MT with an STi rear and you're off to the races. SVX is STILL a massive car and needs to be put on a fairly stict diet, but swapping in a manual is a good start.

The thing to remember is that NAPA, like Schuck's, Autozone, Parts Plus, etc., doesn't actually produce ANYTHING. They buy stuff from other manufacturers, rebadge it and sell it with their name on it. The trick lies in figuring out who they got the current batch of stuff from. My local Parts PLus store uses LOTS of Beck Arnley stuff which, as it turns out, is not generally made by B-A, either. Anyway, NAPA's products usually have a manufacturer code in the part number. Ask the person at the counter and they will likely be able to tell you where that pump came from.

Well...you're definitely going to need a dash kit. Scosche makes one, I can get you a part number. Should cost no more than $15-20 at your local stereo shop. That's just going to be a piece of plastic that helps retain the deck in the dash, since the dash console is not deep enough to allow a modern deck to seat properly. Beyond that, the wiring isn't difficult, neither is speaker mounting. Assuming you have the tools. There's plenty of people on here that have the tools and are willing to help you out. Don't know where oroville is, so I'm assuming you aren't somewhere near me. Its just a matter of cutting appropriate holes in the door panels for your speakers, and wiring them to the deck. You'd have to do that even if you wanted to use the factory speakers simply because the factory system uses a common ground system. That's not so hard, either. This isn't a hard thing, but there are some tools you need to have before you start.

Most this truck ever pulls is about 600lbs of dogs and associated gear. It's just a 2.3l 4 right now.

The engine is too long to fit behind the stock radiator. Using a horizontal radiator, lets the engine have the space above the radiator mounts. Also, the new rad sits in where the spare tire is supposed to go, not over the engine. Dual fans pull air down through it. As for an intercooler for twin hair driers...I could come up with some other locations for that... Stock looks are gonna be a tall order, methinks. You could, perhaps, mount the radiator in the cargo area of the hatch with some good venting to the outside. I suppose you could lengthen the front sheet metal, but that wouldn't look particularly stock, either. I'm thinking that if it MUST remain stock looking from outside, the best bet for a radiator would be to cut a hole in the floor immediately behind the rear seat, mount the radiator in that hole and build a housing around it that can function as duct work to pull in cold air, feed it through the rad and direct it back out. I'm thinking you'd have to fab a fuel cell to fit in there, since the rad would then be invading some of the gas tank's space. Heck, maybe a couple of tiny rads (like from an old VW rabbit) mounted INSIDE the rear hatch, using louvers to direct airflow...that'd be kinda slick.

I used a brass punch to drive the old bearings out. Used a really big socket to drive the new bearings in, then a block of wood to seat the seals.

(All together now) Hi, Tony! I'm glad that you can admit that you have a problem. That's the first step towards recovery....I think. Really, I wouldn't know since I don't have a welder. Just saving up to BECOME a welder addict. Lots of times, I think..."DANG! This would be SOOO much easier with a welder!"

I ran across a JDM Legacy TT on ebay a while back and started having crazy thoughts. So I thought I'd run it through here and see if I'm completely off my rocker or just a little stragne. Here's the thought... JDM EJ22TT, 5MT AWD (6MT if I can find one) and stuff it in....get ready for it.... My Wife's 1990 Ford Ranger long bed.

A friend of mine swapped an ER27 into an L body wagon. Radiator is mounted horizontally in the spare tire well. Cut a hole in the hood and give it a nice scoop and that's all you need.

Use a mild mixture of clean water and white vinegar. Scrub the interior with it and rinse by srcubbing with just clean water. Get a space heater, put the car in a garage or under a carport. Seal up the car as tight as you can and leave the space heater running for 2-3 days. Voila...no more mold.