Scoobywagon

Nah...the studs have neither the mass nor the velocity to penetrate anything. MOstly, they just kinda fall out of the tire, then get pushed out of the way as the tire turns. THen again, I probably should have mentioned that the tires I did this too were at the end of their useful lives, meaning the studs were no longer particularly pointy. Put on a neat light show, though.

THis is easy... Step 1) Remove one axle from the front end and replace the stub in the wheel end for proper torque on the wheel bearings. This will leave you in RWD mode. Step 2) Find a dark parking lot late at night. Step 3) Throw down a nice puddle of water-based degreaser. I can get you a part number from Spurrier chemical if you like. Step 4) Place your rear tires in the puddle you just made and lock your e-brake. Step 5) Rev up the motor to about...oh...say 4k and dump the clutch. The degreaser will soften the rubber compound, so as the tire heats up, it will start to spit out the studs. Wouldn't know anything about this from experience or anything...just a guess...yeah...

If you look at my avatar, you'll see what I'm running for exhaust. I've got a custom bent 2" pipe from the cat back. It splits into two just behind the rear axle and those are Harley-Davidson "cigar" type mufflers hanging under the bumper. Whole thing (including pipe) cost less than $80. Actually, I got the mufflers for free from the local Harley shop. Cost a bit less than $80 for the custom bent pipe (2" stainless...don't know why I went with stainless...) Anyway...runs good sounds good. Just my recommendation.

I use Peninsula Subaru in Bremerton, WA. Those guys know their stuff, even if one of them is a Honda nut. They occasionally get confused when I use engine designations to get a part. Sometimes they think that EA81 refers to year, but then they remember and we're all kinds of good. They even had a complete set of fusible links in New Old Stock. How cool is that???

I can hook up w/ Northwet...if he hasn't left yet.

I'm assuming that it has gotten gunked up. If so, some brake cleaner should de-gunkify it.

A1 Cardone is another company like Beck Arnley. They don't actually produce anything, they just buy up a lot of whatever and re-box it. I've used a few of them and they don't last any longer than my ARI's. To be perfectly clear on this, I'm chewing up boots about every 6000 miles. This is due largely to the fact that I've got my suspension cranked all the way up and that my carb is running pretty rich. I've had better luck with the OEM axles I've snagged out of wrecking yards, but not a lot. If it was me, I'd use CVaxles.com and not bother with Cardone, Beck-Arnley or ARI.

I'd run it as-is for a while and save up the money to have it CCR'd. But that's just me.

I was stationed in Japan in 95-96 and there were diesel Soobs (and everything else) all over the place. Wasn't aware that anything was shipped outside of the JDM. Could be cool, but the engines I remember were normally aspirated rattle traps. MASSIVE amounts of noise and no power at ALL.

Can also be motor mounts. All three of mine are shot, so the light goes on under heavy acceleration, heavy braking or hard cornering...really gotta get that fixed up some time....SOON!

Just had this experience at Autozone. Went in to buy cap & rotor. Specified 83 GL 4x4 Manual no turbo. Gal went through the computer, grabbed the part of the shelf and handed it to me. I looked at it and it was the wrong part (also didn't have the rotor). So I had her look up an 85 GL 4x4 No Turbo and got the right parts. SOme kinda weird. The Nippondenso dristributors have clip on caps and press on rotors. I've found that they perform better when you use cap and rotor with brass inserts rather than aluminum. Not sure why, though.

Sorry, Dude....(AH mode Off )Just playing...

Registering momentarily, but I think I should get a discount for finding the venue!

I've got a 90 model. I'll crawl under there and see what I can see.

I've only put in about 2 hours and some change. I used a drill with a wire wheel and wire cup to do the cleaning. Gonna need something MUCH more aggressive to handle the rust pitting. I'm going to leave the center natural, but I'm going to try to polish it up a bit. I've put on some clear to keep it from rusting until I can get after it again. Looks better in person than in pictures, I think. When I get it cleaned up the way I want it, I'll try out my new paint gear with some epoxy paint. Black rims, polished steel centers with clear coat.

Well, someone else did some work on their wheels. Couldn't find that thread, so here's a new one. Anyway, got some pics posted in my gallery here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=5075&sort=7&cat=668&page=1 Before: After: waiting for it to dry so I can apply a fresh coat and then some clear.

Check the DOJs on the front. Also check the ball joints and outer tie rod ends. lots of fun. Heck of a find, man!

I carry... 4-way tire iron 36mm axle nut socket 36mm axle nut 19mm deep well (1/2" drive) 1/2" drive breaker bar flat head screwdriver #2 phillips head pliers 10mm combo wrench 12mm combo wrench 14mm combo wrench 1 qt Valvoline 5w30 1 qt DOT3 brake fluid 1 gallon water 2.5 gallons gasoline miscellaneous rags 20' braided nylon tow rope jumper cables

OK, so I'm looking at building a hybrid EA engine and I've got some questions. I'm planning on an EA-81 long block with EA-82 SPFI intake and fuel management. The goal is to have a fun project that results in a strong running engine that gets good mileage, is reliable and that no one else has. so here are my questions: 1) clearly I have to use the EA81 heads. Are they similar enough to EA82 heads so as not to completely upset the computer in some way? 2) Are there any major differences in the stock cam grinds in the EA81 and 82? I'm sorta planning on having Delta Cam grind me a custom stick and I'm wondering if I should have them start with an EA81 grind, an EA82 grind or if there is, in fact, any difference at all. 3) Are there any sensors in odd places on the EA82 SPFI? I'm thinking its old enough that it should not have things like crank and cam position sensors. Looking for things that would make the swap just impossible. 4) What are the highest compression pistons that I can get for an EA engine? EA71? SPFI? I'd kinda like to have a static compression ratio somewhere just shy of 10:1. The tentative plan in my head right now is EA71 pistons, EA-81 long block, EA-82 SPFI intake, fuel rail, harness and computer. I'm going to look into having the heads decked, then extrude honed. If EH is not feasible, then a simple polish job would probably be fine. Add in a custom cam and true dual exhaust I should be golden. I think. I don't know what goes into cam design, but I'm going to talk to Delta and try to get a cam with a grind that will let me get a bit more hp a little lower on the tach. I'm looking for a 100hp peak. 100hp, 150lbft. Or something reasonably close. Any comments or other thoughts?

Randy's doesn't do one-off custom stuff. I asked them about a different project about a year or so ago and they kinda looked at me funny and said "Uh...no.". However, there is a place just up in bremerton that does and another up in Poulsbo. Forgotten the name of the one in Bremerton, but the Poulsbo place is called Jantz Engineering. Their web site is http://www.jantz4x4.com/. I've talked to them and they are really friendly and do excellent work (this judgement made through observations of work done on other people's rigs, not mine...yet).

I've put multiple alternators in other cars, just not a Soob...yet. It really isn't all that difficult, you just have to remember that you are wiring in the second alternator parallel to the first. I went out this morning and took a couple measurements on my 83. It used to have AC and P/S, but now has neither. Looking at the brackets for this setup, I don't think it would be terribly difficult to add a second alt where the AC compressor is supposed to mount. Realistically, though, there's something to be said for just going with the single GM 1-wire 100 amp unit. The times I've done this were all in cars with either MASSIVE stereo systems (10000+ legitimate watts) or hydraulics (15-20 batteries with high-current relays to change their wiring from series for hydraulics to parallel for charging). I seriously doubt you've got anything in your car to warrant the presence of so much electrical power.

Now THAT is an interesting question!

Well, from a purely scientific point of view, the fact that you have made changes to your setup between dyno runs inherently invalidates at least one data set, if not both. That kind of depends on the purpose of making hte dyno runs in the first place. Having said that, I'm in agreement with the others. I really doubt you'd see a serious jump in power just based on your exhaust changes. I think the biggest change you're going to see is the fact that you are going from a 2wd chassis dyno to a 4wd dyno. Using a chassis dyno at all is something of a crapshoot as far as getting usable results goes. Results are extremely dependent on operator skill as well as calibration of the dyno and, of course, the dyno's measurement method. I've actually seen a study where a lightly modded WRX only dyno'd out at about 98 whp. It turns out that a 4/AWD dyno loses something like 4 times as much power compared to a 2WD dyno do to heat and limited traction on the steel rollers (tire slippage). I suspect that you'll actually see a significant reduction in reported horsepower. I think your new exhaust will tend to offset that a small bit, but in the end, you'll see less power.

WEll, I'm FAIRLY certain that the car I was looking at used to be a sedan. Not 100% sure, though. Either way, that makes for a MASSIVE weight loss. COuple hundred pounds, anyway. Hmm...might have to look at that more closely.

I recently ran across a badly munched up 2.5RS (unsure of year) in a local wrecking yard. I am considering swapping that engine and tranny into one of my wagons to have a fun little street toy. The downside is that I've never been terribly impressed with the performance of the 2.5RS. Fun toys, but not exactly known for their pavement melting horsepower. It occurred to me, though, that my wagons might be lighter than an Impreza. Anyone know for sure? Don't really feel like doing a WRX swap, but I thought an EJ25 could be fun. Any thoughts?