Scoobywagon

Without looking at the car with a set of guages, I just don't know. To diagnose it yourself, you'll need a good set of manifold guages and some reference materials. I'll be happy to help with that. What you're going to do is run the system and watch both high and low pressures to see where the refrigerant is going and what its doing when it gets there.

If the expansion valve is shot, its a real chore to get. Its all the same work as a heater core swap. Pull the dash, pull the heater box, swap the valve, put it all back together.

Don't know about 01. I checked on the 03 model. I can find out.

As a rule, you should see a 10:1 relationship between high and low. You should also see about 35-40 psi on the low side. So your pressures look correct with respect to each other, but both are low. That, combined with the fact that the compressor is cycling a lot, tells me that you are low on refrigerant. I'll look up your car tomorrow. We'll see what it should take.

Maybe its just a market thing, but $19,000 seems AWFULLY high. Then again, maybe thats just because you couldn't pay me to own a Honda car. That said, I have observed that the CR-V is likely to be more expensive to repair than your Forester. Glass is more expensive for a Honda than almost any other vehicle in the same class. They seem to have a fairly high rate of failure in their window regulators, for some reason. Not sure why that should be. I've not learned to trust Honda's traction control. It is brake-based, like most such systems, but for some reason, Honda's system just behaves....oddly. It engages and disengages at odd times and the car "feels" weird while its engaged. Frankly, though, that could just be the one that I have experience with. Maybe it has something wrong with it. Don't know. As I look around, though, I see plenty of 08 and 09 Foresters in that same price point.

I have never seen a 93 with a 2.5. However, the way Haynes does this sort of thing, they'll give you instructions for both because the 2.5 WAS available in some models later on. I'll bet dollars to donuts that you have the 2.2. As far as where to grab the motor when lifting...There should be an eye up front. Grab that first. Then, in the back, if I remember right, there is a little metal bar between to bolts on the engine side of the flywheel housing. I usually grab that.

3 words - In a Heartbeat.

SOunds like you're trying to feed in liquid 134a on the low side. Charging should be done on the high side. If you're using one of the cheap recharge kits you can get from Schuck's and such, then you don't have a choice. If that's the case, leave the can upright so that it will draw vapor instead of liquid. The refrigerant will happily boil off. If that goes too slowly for you, you can use a heat gun to heat the can.

Not sure. PM me your VIN and I'll run it down. See what's what in there.

If you're buying, I'm there. And there had better be plenty of the malty variety.

No, it won't prolong battery life to turn everything off. The reason is that when the key is in the start position, the accessory circuit is disconnected. So in the start position, there are really only 3 things drawing power. They are the starter, the ignition coil(s) and the ECM/TCM/BCM. Headlights go off, AC clutch disengages (or rather it just doesn't engage as it is magnetic and has to be energized to engage in the first place), radio goes off, blower motor goes off, rear defrost goes off, etc.

I work in a glass shop and we use the Sprayway. Never had a problem with it not removing anything that wasn't HEAVY buildup. As for the tinted portion of your windshield wearing away...no, not gonna happen unless you've somehow worn completely through the glass. That isn't a film up there. The glass is actually colored. It may be that you've got some kind of heavy built-up grime in the areas that the wipers don't cover. If so, you'll want a heavier cleaner. In my shop, if we run across something like that, we use a product called Sparkle Clean from CR Laurence. Its a bit pricey and requires lots of elbow grease, but it will quite literally clean anything off of glass. It has a mild abrasive compound and it WILL eat right through your paint if you aren't careful. I'm not sure what's in it, but it seems like a sort of blend of detergent, abrasive agent and polishing compound. It will not mar your glass at all. We've even seen it take years of soap scum and hard water stains off of a glass shower door without scratching the glass. But it WILL scratch just about anything else. You should see what it does to plexi. If you get it on the paint, don't try to rub it off. Just go after it with water. Lots of water. Let me know if you figure out what's going on.

Most of the time, the tweeters are just paralleled off the mains. Look for a bad connection in the doors

Well, I'm pretty sure its available elsewhere. But I KNOW its available at costco.

Sprayway glass cleaner. Available at Costco, 4-pack is about $6 or so. Aerosol can, gives you a nice foam and cleans streak free.

Just a bit of advice for anyone looking to buy automotive glass. Thought this seemed an appropriate place. When you set about getting glass, there are a couple of things to make sure that you get. The thing to remember here is that price IS NOT everything. In fact, in some ways, price can serve as a red flag for you if you know what you're looking for. In the US, there are essentially only 3 OE glass manufacturers. They are Pittsburgh Glass Works (PGW), formerly known as PPG, Libbey Owens Ford (LOF), formerly known as Pilkington, and Carlite. Carlite manufactures glass almost entirely for Ford, but their glass does occasionally find its way into other makes. PGW and LOF provide the OEM glass for pretty much every other vehicle manufactured in North America. There are other manufacturers, such as Safelite, but they are aftermarket glass. So there are essentially 3 types of glass out there. OEM (comes from the factory, complete with logos and premium price tag), OE (made by the same people) and Aftermarket. As a rule, you'll want to stay away from the aftermarket glass unless you just need to put a piece in a car so you can sell it or something. The aftermarket glass is cheap and does not meet vehicle manufacturer standards for product quality. That can lead to problems as minor as "the glass is just not the same color as the rest" or as severe as "the shape is just not quite right and it doesn't quite fit the hole". So how do you tell? Well, since there are only three manufacturers, essentially all glass shops pay about the same for the glass itself. So when you call to get a quote, ask them to break down the total. That breakdown should include glass, labor and any moldings/clips/etc. You will notice that most of the shops in your area will be right about the same cost on the glass. The low-ball outliers are the ones using cheap glass and, therefore, should probably be avoided. THen, you need to compare labor rates. Most shops, again, will be right there together. The high-side outliers will be the ones with high shop rates. That fact gives you room to negotiate with them. The low-side outliers will be the ones who either have low shop rates or make a practice of cutting corners during install. Usually both. Again, these low-side outliers should probably be avoided. Your windshield is part of the safety features of your car. If it is not installed properly, it could come out in an accident and that is B A D bad. The other thing to be aware of is the fact that there are LOTS of glass installers out there who only do mobile work. While that is convenient, it also leaves you, the customer, susceptible to some problems you just don't want to have. Make sure that your installer has a shop, even if you are going to have them come to you to do the work. That way, if there is a problem with that glass down the line, you aren't at their mercy for when they want to come deal with you. You can simply take the car to the shop and get the problem taken care of. For those of you who own newer vehicles or carry comprehensive insurance on your car, talk to your agent about reducing your deductible for comprehensive. That deductible isn't the expensive one in terms of your monthly premium. As an example, the difference between $250 and $50 deductible on my wife's 01 Forester is about $8 every 6 months. Of course, your mileage may very, etc. The worst they can say, though, is "sorry, we can't do that" and you're no worse off than you were. Definitely worth a conversation with your agent.

It will if you're not a complete idiot. If you pull all the fuses and the current draw doesn't go away....hmmmm....what could possibly be left.....

You are trying to run a quiescent draw test. Here's how you do it. 1) Make sure the battery is fully charged. Disconnect it from the car and attach a charger. 2) Once the charge cycle is complete, let the battery rest for one hour. You're looking for approximately 12.6 to 12.8 volts with the battery at rest. Lower than that and you've probably got a battery with a bad cell. 3) Reconnect the negative cable to the battery. Your meter probably has 3 connectors for the test leads. Put the red lead on the "Amps" connector. Then connect the red lead to the positive battery terminal. Connect the black lead to the positive battery cable. That will let the meter read the current draw of the vehicle. With everything off, you should see 40 milliamps or less. 4) Go to the fuse box and remove the fuses one by one. keep an eye on the meter and take note of what fuse kills the excessive draw. There you'll have your answer.

A sway bar is not a bar so much as it is a spring. Bending one is a real trick. And if it IS bent, it will fail very quickly at the site of the damage. However, if it fails, its just a sway bar. You'll hear a loud BANG and then the car will start to wallow over bumps and turns. I wouldn't worry about it. Put it back in, align the car and drive it.

Your factory alarm does not have any sensitivity settings. It is not an alarm in the same way as an aftermarket alarm. Really all it gets you is dome light monitoring. There is no impact sensor. I'm assuming, of course, that the alarm in question actually IS the factory part. There is the possibility that what you have is a dealer-option alarm. If that's the case, there's no telling what you have without looking under the dash.

Just want to make sure I understand. Your AC compressor is working just fine, but the air you get isn't cold enough. Is that correct?

I'm not entirely certain what drives the water pump on the H6 as it has been quite a while since I looked at one. I'm going off the diagrams, here. So far as your forester goes, if you don't have that little pickup, then you may be the exception. I say this because I've seen the same pickup on XT6's and some Loyales as well as Imprezas and Legacys. I can't come up with a good reason for Subaru to mix and match, as it were, with some cars having that part and others not.

The problem with a long crack like that is that you can't force the resin all the way through the crack. Essentially that means that you can't repair a crack like that because the resin can't de-stress the glass. Now, you could do what's called a stop drill. A stop drill is not intended as a repair. Rather, it is intended as a band aid until you can replace the windshield. A stop drill is a technique where you drill into the end of the crack. The idea here is to remove the stress at the point of the crack so as to prevent it spreading further. Then, once you've drilled the glass, you fill that with the resin. The risk here is that when you start drilling, the crack can spread rapidly. Then you end up chasing the crack all across the windshield. Look at it this way...The first repair, the initial chip, will run you $40, say. Now, most shops will cut you a deal on other repairs carried out at the same time. Lets say they give you $20 each for any extras. Now, each stop drill after the first will only cost you $20 rather than 40. That means you are already looking at a $60 bill from the outset. And that assumes that the technician is able to catch the crack on the first try. Each additional attempt at a stop drill will cost you another $20. So, if the technician has to make 2 additional attempts to stop that crack, you're at an even $100 + tax. And you are not going to get any warranty of any kind on that. Now, here's the flip side. A new windshield will probably set you back about $130 or so. Labor to install it is likely to be around $60-70. So call it $195 + tax. For that you get new glass, warranty, etc. I don't know where you are, but Washington doesn't have a law regarding cracks in the windshield so long as they are not in the driver's direct line of sight. So what I'd recommend is that you save the money on the repair. Wait until you can afford the replacement.

I'm fairly certain that most cars that came FROM THE FACTORY with AC have that. I say this because I double checked a couple of parts cars. The ones with aftermarket or dealer option air just have the connection for the clutch. The factory units all have this little hall-effect pickup on them. If I had to guess, I'd say there are probably 4-5 different part numbers for variations on year and what type AC you have.

I'm not real sure what they are talking about when they refer to a "revolution sensor". HOwever, I am looking at the diagram and there DOES appear to be an electrical connection other than just the power for the clutch. It looks like it might be a little inductive pickup to tell the computer if the compressor is running or not. That way, if the compressor were to seize, the computer can turn off the ac so as to minimize other damage. It protects little things...like the belt that runs your water pump. This part is, in fact, called the "revolution sensor". The Subaru Part number is 73190AE000. It retails $120. Labor looks to be about an hour or so. The diagram is a bit unclear as to what all has to come off to get to this thing. So at my shop, you'd be looking at about $200 to change the sensor, plus $78 for evac/recharge plus any refrigerant.